Rough Country 3.25 vs 3.5" - On road ride quality
You end up changing out anything beyond what's included in the kit (drive shaft, not using pitman, etc)?
Last edited by mpthompson84; May 24, 2013 at 09:58 AM.
I would avoid their shocks as well... if you just want 35's I would get their budget boost. Can't beat the price and they reuse so many stock parts it won't change your ride quality much. I know people who wheeld the RC budget boost and 35s hard no problem, won't have any problems with the driveshaft most likely b/c your droop will be limited by the OEM shocks.
Going cheap and tall don't mix and 3.5 is overkill for 35s. You will regret running the cheap coils, shocks, and bushings, especially since there is zero need to replace these quailty OEM parts with cheap parts if you just want 35's.
(see I didn't totally bash RC... I recommended their buget boost)
Going cheap and tall don't mix and 3.5 is overkill for 35s. You will regret running the cheap coils, shocks, and bushings, especially since there is zero need to replace these quailty OEM parts with cheap parts if you just want 35's.
(see I didn't totally bash RC... I recommended their buget boost)
Last edited by hypeiv; May 24, 2013 at 10:04 AM.
My question is this:
are the "added goodies" going to be directed more towards people that wheel their rigs, or are the "added goodies" going to improve the on road handling of the kit?
are the "added goodies" going to be directed more towards people that wheel their rigs, or are the "added goodies" going to improve the on road handling of the kit?
3.25" - No caster correction. No steering correction.
3.5" - Has caster correction (fixed arms). Has steering correction. (drop pitman / trackbar bracket). Has front axle centering (trackbar bracket).
Adjustable arms would be better than fixed arms, but the fixed will do the job. A flip would be better than a drop pitman/bracket, but they do the job. An adj trackbar would be better than brackets, but again, they do the job.
Between the two, the 3.5" is the more complete kit, should handle better, and should be fine for your stated needs.

For the driveshafts - running at steeper angles from the lift can cause them to fail. Max flex offroad just makes it much more likely. Make a habit of crawling underneath and actually looking at them on occasion.
Last edited by nthinuf; May 24, 2013 at 10:05 AM.
I have the 3.5 inch lift my Jeep is a 2010 with 65000 on it it rides about the same as stock and off road it has no issue's I used an adjustable front track bar instead of changimg the pitman arm. I have a steel front and rear bumper and armor corners woth no ossues yet tje lift has 40k miles on it
I have the 3.5 inch lift my Jeep is a 2010 with 65000 on it it rides about the same as stock and off road it has no issue's I used an adjustable front track bar instead of changimg the pitman arm. I have a steel front and rear bumper and armor corners woth no ossues yet tje lift has 40k miles on it
Again.. not discounting anyone's opinion or help. Thanks all
Last edited by mpthompson84; May 24, 2013 at 12:14 PM.
I've had the 3.5" kit for over a year now. I went with 3.5" over the 3.25" because of the extra brackets, the new series 2.0 shocks and the rear coil angle correction plates. There has been no sag like the naysayers are going on about. I use their drop pitman arm with a sector shaft brace for my steering box (from Rock Solid Performance) which I was going to add anyways after bigger tires because the JK steering boxes are notoriously weak. I also added an adjustable trackbar in the front which came with the steering box/sector shaft brace. I did leave the RC front trackbar bracket in place with the adjustable trackbar (you are supposed to take the bracket off with the adj bar) after speaking with techs at RC and Rock Solid I tried it both ways and like the angle of the trackbar with the drop pitman arm and raised bracket ALL in place...and I like the steering better (I tried all combinations of the adjustable track bar and brackets and drop pitman arm) Then I replaced the longer front LCA's in the kit with the geometry correcting brackets. I'm pretty satisfied with the setup and the ride is comfortable over the pathetic roads in Peoria, Illinois. The shocks boasts some special valving that operates differently over varying terrain...all I know is that they keep up with me when I hit a couple of washboard sections of I-74 at 75 MPH and they support the corners when I'm offroad flopping and twisting back and forth. No experience with other/"better" shocks on a jeep yet so I can't give you a comparison except to the factory Rubicon shocks/springs and I can say that these are at least a little better.
I know a few people who have been riding the 3.5" series 2 lift for a while now with NO issues. And, it flexes like crazy! Trust me, RC has came a long way.
Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum
Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum
Installed it yesterday and noticed I really need SS brake lines . My 2013 Rubi front brake lines have a 4" metal clamp on the brake line to attach it to the bottom on the shock tower. So for now I zip tied the damn thing to jeep it quiet. Brake lines will be here on Wednesday.
Im only one day into this lift and drove 65 miles home after the install and I'm content!





Sent from my i5 using just one thumb and tapatalk



