Rubi Locker Mod ?'s
Off Road Engineering emailed me back;
Hi Brandon,
The price for the kit is $79.00.
You can call us to order.
The directions reflect installation on the older interior style, so you probably would not be able to mount the switches next to the radio.
Thanks,
Robert
I think I am just going to order the dang kit. If I was a little smarter when it comes to wiring I would probably just go buy the stuff I needed to make it work.... but I dont even know what that would be, and I sure as hell wouldnt be able to get it all installed without directions.
I will update this thread with the quality of product and how the installation goes, for anyone wondering.
Hi Brandon,
The price for the kit is $79.00.
You can call us to order.
The directions reflect installation on the older interior style, so you probably would not be able to mount the switches next to the radio.
Thanks,
Robert
I think I am just going to order the dang kit. If I was a little smarter when it comes to wiring I would probably just go buy the stuff I needed to make it work.... but I dont even know what that would be, and I sure as hell wouldnt be able to get it all installed without directions.
I will update this thread with the quality of product and how the installation goes, for anyone wondering.
Dang, I am a day late and a dollar short. I just completed this mod on my 2012 rubi last Friday. I am not the best with wiring but I am not the worst either. I have seen a few ways to do it. One way is to splice into the locker solonoids under the battery and another way of splicing into the harness that connects to the fuse box. I knew it was easier to remove the fuse box than the battery so that is the route I did. I followed this video: Jeep JK Locker Override / Bypass - YouTube. I don't believe the one he did was a 2012 but the wire colors were the same (two purple wires (one with a blue strip and one with a green strip). I spliced into them and ran the wires over to the drivers side and through the foam section of the a-pillar. I purchased two illuminated switches, to control the lockers independently. The switches had three prongs on the back (ground, source, and power). At first I tried to wire up as I thought was right: ground to a ground, source to the wire that was spliced and then power to a wire running to the battery. I thought this would work and illuminate the switch when activated. The illumination portion worked but the engagement of the lockers didn't. Then I tried to switch the source and power to no avail either. Then I tried to dismiss the power wire all together and run the locker wire into the source and ground. That didn't work either so I switched the locker wire to the power terminal. At this point I had thrown the towel and was going to dig further into it online when my buddy walks up and tells me the wire coming from the locker splice should be on the power terminal and the grounded wire needs to be on the source terminal. Seemed odd but in the end worked. When activated, the corresponding light on the dash blinks on and off. In the video he states that grounding the ground terminal to a different ground spot will activiate the light on the switch. I haven't tried this yet but will probably this weekend. Is $80 expensive for this mod as a package??? I can't say either way. What I can say is the swiches were $5-10, the wire was around $10 so that extra $60 could be used for some decent wire strippers, wire crimpers and quite a bit of beer.
Dang, I am a day late and a dollar short. I just completed this mod on my 2012 rubi last Friday. I am not the best with wiring but I am not the worst either. I have seen a few ways to do it. One way is to splice into the locker solonoids under the battery and another way of splicing into the harness that connects to the fuse box. I knew it was easier to remove the fuse box than the battery so that is the route I did. I followed this video: Jeep JK Locker Override / Bypass - YouTube. I don't believe the one he did was a 2012 but the wire colors were the same (two purple wires (one with a blue strip and one with a green strip). I spliced into them and ran the wires over to the drivers side and through the foam section of the a-pillar. I purchased two illuminated switches, to control the lockers independently. The switches had three prongs on the back (ground, source, and power). At first I tried to wire up as I thought was right: ground to a ground, source to the wire that was spliced and then power to a wire running to the battery. I thought this would work and illuminate the switch when activated. The illumination portion worked but the engagement of the lockers didn't. Then I tried to switch the source and power to no avail either. Then I tried to dismiss the power wire all together and run the locker wire into the source and ground. That didn't work either so I switched the locker wire to the power terminal. At this point I had thrown the towel and was going to dig further into it online when my buddy walks up and tells me the wire coming from the locker splice should be on the power terminal and the grounded wire needs to be on the source terminal. Seemed odd but in the end worked. When activated, the corresponding light on the dash blinks on and off. In the video he states that grounding the ground terminal to a different ground spot will activiate the light on the switch. I haven't tried this yet but will probably this weekend. Is $80 expensive for this mod as a package??? I can't say either way. What I can say is the swiches were $5-10, the wire was around $10 so that extra $60 could be used for some decent wire strippers, wire crimpers and quite a bit of beer.
Hahahahaha. As pissed off as I am about the $60 worth of beer I could have stocked up in my fridge, I still dont feel I could accomplish this without directions in my hand. It all looks easy on video until I look under the hood at a maze of wires.
Let us know how yours turns out (getting the lights to function). And post up some pics.
Where did you mount your switches?
Well, the kit finally came in (took over a week). Below is a picture of it in all its glory. Basically has the two switches for the front and rear lockers, a main on/off switch, some type of wire splice connector jobby doo's, a few screws (apparently needed if mounting the buttons next to factory radio), some wire loom and several zip ties. Oh, and complete directions with color photos.
Im sure all this stuff can be purchased for much cheaper than $80, but I knew if I didnt go this route I would never get it done. I will be lucky to get it done with this stuff...

It will probably be quite a while before I get some time to install it, but I plan on making a small little write-up (with some pictures if I can remember) after I complete it. Stay tuned if you are interested.
Im sure all this stuff can be purchased for much cheaper than $80, but I knew if I didnt go this route I would never get it done. I will be lucky to get it done with this stuff...

It will probably be quite a while before I get some time to install it, but I plan on making a small little write-up (with some pictures if I can remember) after I complete it. Stay tuned if you are interested.


