Rubicon rear locker does not engage, computer thinks it's engaged
My 2010 Rubicon rear locker does not engage, but the computer thinks it is engaged. The dash light is on steady. Front locker works as advertised.
This is different from most other threads, as in them the dash indicator blinks while trying to engage the locker.
This is different from most other threads, as in them the dash indicator blinks while trying to engage the locker.
You've owned this vehicle for a while and this is a new issue that has popped up? Wondering if this is an electrical issue more than mechanical. If that were my jeep, I think the first course of troubleshooting would be to unplug the harness for the locker actuator and run 12v directly to the two pins using some wire, alligator clips, and a couple paper clips as leads. This would cut out all the rubicon electrical hoopla and you'd hear if that actuator ring is sliding over or not to engage the dog clutch.
We applied 12 volts to the actuator and we heard nothing from inside the differential. Took the cover off and repeated the test, no movement on the locking plate. Removed the 12 connector from the diff housing and repeated the test using the wires going directly to the actuator, again nothing. The electro magnet never seems to be activate. As of now in looks like the locker activator is bad. This can be bought as an individual part, so it must occasionally fail.
Any other thoughts?
Any other thoughts?
Yes, they fail often and it's not abnormal. What is a bit abnormal is the indicator is telling you it is activated. That gets a signal from the plunger that is moved to the driver's side as the actuator ring gets pulled over. The part is a couple hundred bucks and will require you to pull the carrier, pull the carrier bearings, pull the magnet, replace and reassemble.
Here is the real rub before you get thinking it's time to swap in a different locker. Nobody makes a 32-spline locker that I'm aware of, or they didn't used to. So, if you decide to go with a whole different locker you have to go to 35-spline which would also require new axle shafts.
Here is the real rub before you get thinking it's time to swap in a different locker. Nobody makes a 32-spline locker that I'm aware of, or they didn't used to. So, if you decide to go with a whole different locker you have to go to 35-spline which would also require new axle shafts.
Last edited by resharp001; May 25, 2021 at 05:28 PM.







