Its in the instructions that you need to cut the bolt off or remove the exhaust, in order to remove the passenger side upper control arm bolt. Did they not read the instructions? lol
You got to love shops that just jump into it and think they know everything without even reading the instructions.

Its very simple, just undo the bolt, pull it out as far as you can, then cut it off.
They give you new bolts in the kit for the front upper control arms, that you install from the frame side, so the nut is by the exhaust.

 

Remember to install your nipple fittings on your Upper and Lower control arms
I forgot until the end and was wondering what these random extra parts were for. I have to go back and put them on now. 90* fittings go up the lower control arms and straight fittings on the upper. The instructions dont mention them at all.

 

Redrock-

Thanks for keeping this post current. Do you have any pics of the kit installed on a 4-door Rubicon? I assume from the price and the parts list that the kit is very complete. I will be running some 35" tires on the factory wheels with Spidertrax spacers. Other than the possibility of needing driveshafts, can you think of anything else that would need to be purchased? Is anyone offering a speedometer calibration yet?

Thanks,
Tom

 

Not exactly a Rubicon but its the RE 3.5" kit on 35s

VERY pleased with it

Also, when you all install it, have some kind of string to attach the disconnect pins, I lost one within 48 hours and it was pointing vertically

 

Redrock-

Did you take any comparative measurements? Thanks for the pictures.

Tom

 

I liked the kit instal, it was a peice of cake for my brother and I, being it was not the first lift we've done.

There are some things I could complain about though.
1. Due to the fact they use the same front lower arm on both sides, one of my
arms was drilled twice for grease fittings, so the fitting could still point up on
the other side.
The problem is, they didnt plug the extra hole! Now I have to make a tip to
the hardware store to find something to plug it with.

2. The grease fittings bottom out into the plastic bushings inside the flex joint, and therefore doesnt allow grease to flow into the flex joint,
so I guess you just have to back out the fitting some and leave it loose when greasing them

3. I think the rear track bar bracket is designed for their 4 1/2" kit, not the 3 1/2".
The bracket kicked my axle over too far....I had a 3/4" difference from one side to the other
I did my measuring with the weight of the Jeep on the axle, going from the hub to the frame and backing up my measurements by going from the tire to the flare.
Not to mention you could visually see the difference nite and day, just by looking at the tires sticking out.
Removing the bracket just kicked the axle over the OTHER way too far, with it being 3/4" off to one side again.
So.....I just left the bracket off and ordered the Full Traction rear track bar, now its all good.

Other then those problems, Im happy with the kit and the ride

 

Thanks for all the info...

I looked and didnt see any allen plugs, but Im sure I can find them at the local hardware store.

I only tightened the grease fittings enough to feel snug and not be loose, but after trying to grease one and having all the grease back up at me, I pulled the fitting out and I could see were it bottomed out into the plastic.
The gap that is supposed to be in the plastic is pretty much closed up also.

Anyway, I took a small drill bit and carefully opened up the plastic with it, and now I can get grease to go into the joint without it backing up at me.

Like you said though, I noticed the joints are very tight and didnt take much grease if any at all. So I figured I'd just try and grease them again after they get some more milage on them.

I also like the idea of keeping the rear track bar as level as possible, but it was just too far off for my liking, with or without the drop bracket.
I'd like to try the bracket with the FT adjustable bar, but I dont think the bar will go short enough...

 

I'm debating between this lift and the Full traction ultimate since they are fairly close in price with shocks and an adjustable rear track bar added to the RE. Does one have a benefit over the other? It sounds like there are no driveline issues with the FT but there maybe with the RE. Not knowing much about lifts that could be a headache for me down the road.

Redrock, since you sell the 3 shocks I'm considering: FT M-Force, RE/Bilstein monotube and OME nitrochargers.......what would be the best for my scenario. This will mainly be a dd followed by a fair amount of beach driving with washboard at times (I live on the beach in Mainland Mexico) and then mild offroading. I'm most concerned about on road or on gravel road performance as opposed to heavy offroading.

Thanks!

 

I had a problem with my lift this weekend. One of my clevis pins for the front sway bar disconnect came off...the bolt came out and disappeared...the bottom of the disconnect got lodged behind where the bolt goes in! I figured why bother taking them off since I have a quick disco with the Rubicon anyway...not only that, there are no bolts up top to pin them to if you did! I spoke with Mike at RE and he said they just "stick them up under the plastic fender well". Hmmm... I did neither and got the bad end!

 

The RE Bilsteins do ride a little stiff on the road, but IMO its no worse then a stock Rubi.
I took mine wheeling over the weekend and that is where these shocks really shine, it was great!
One trail I went down was basicly a creek with 6" of water and very rocky with a lot of bowling ball size rocks everywhere....
needless to say, it handled it better then some of the paved roads Ive been down in my area

Did you make sure you put the pins in the right way?
Im not sure if you noticed, but one way they will lock better vs flipped over the other way.
As for the bolt coming out, thats probably just an install error, its best to use loc-tite when not using a lock nut or washer