Yeah I understand that part. I am just asking if running 40's on 5.13 is good or should I stick with 37's until I can upgrade my axles to D60's.

The wife has said I can most likely get my Rubi at the beginning of the year so I will be a full on JK'er then. She also knows I want to get my 6" LA and tires right away. She's so awesome, she's excited too.

 

honestly, even if the r&p can hold out, if you want to run 40's, i would get a d60

 

37's with 5.13 it is. Gotta work on the wife for the justification of D60. She handles all the funds so gotta spread this all out to get my toys. :P

 

Ok good info... Thanks, I'm leaning towards the TeraFlex 6" long arm, Does anyone have this set up ( W/38's ) so I could see some pics. I'm also concerned about rubbing.

Is it unreasonable to DD this kind of rig? I drive about 50 miles per day.. Can the stock Rubi drive line really take this. Anything else I should change or strengthen.

 

With a 6" lift you will need to go aftermarket drive shafts front and rear

 

being that you have an unlimited, you should be able to get away running the rear shaft for a while but, i probably would recommend upgrading to a new aftermarket u-joint style shaft. up front, being that you have an auto, you will definitely need a new shaft. aside from that, yeah, if you haven't done so already, i would gussett up your front axle c's and install chromo shafts. sleeving the housing isn't a bad idea either. of course, if you have the cash, i would go straight to d60's but, that's only if you have the cash.

 

What does this mean? I really want 5.38s if safely possible!

 

Cryogenic treating of steel parts hardens them by changing the molecular structure. As the steel cools (to below -185 degrees) the molecular structure contracts and minimizes areas prone to stress fractures. The end result is longer part life, greater resistance to fractures and better stability through heat cycles.

The process has been used for a long time on different performance automotive parts, such as pistons, rings, connecting rods and valve springs. Claims of 5x or more the part life has been claimed and it's a pretty much standard process for many parts in F1 cars before the parts are machined.

There are lots of shops that perform the service and it's not all that expensive. It has lots of industrial applications and certainly the serious racing crowd is all over taking critical parts in for treatment.

 

Thanks for the info. I will defiantly do the shafts and reinforce the front axel. I had an 07 Unlimited Rubi but sold it before I had the chance to mod it. Before that I had a TJ with a 360 conv, 1500 trans full width axels, Ford 9in rear and 38 Boggers... did some great wheeling. What I regret is being able to daily drive it so this time I'm going for the best of both worlds. I don't want to trailer this thing when it's soooo much fun to cruise to & from the trails.

 

I agree I like to drive to the trails. But when I do I ussually drive more restricted on the hard obstacles. When I trailer to the trail I seem to have a lot more fun trying the top(optional) obstacles.But I have limbed back to the trailer broken and a passanger if there are more days left in the event.Both have there advantages.