Ajkaz

Currently Running RK 2.5" Springs on my 2 Door with 34" MTRs. I just installed Bushwacker Flat Fenders, removed the springs and cycled the suspension. Bump cup to pad my tires clear the fenders while leaving me 15" from shock mount to shock mount.

I cant see anything binding or rubbing in the suspension at full stuff, does someone know of something I might be missing?

My question is can I remove my bump stop spacers and reinstall the original bumps to regain my uptravel as long as my shocks are @ 15" or smaller compressed?

Has anyone used a bump stop less expensive than air bumps with a noticeable improvement over stock in roughly the same length range?
Sumo Springs or maybe daystar stingers? Speedbumps seem way too expensive....

Is trying to get that 2" of travel back pointless? I find myself frequently bottom out on the bumps on forest roads and in the desert and feel like I am wasting potential shock travel!

Ajkaz

Has anyone mounted the Daystar Stingers in the coil bucket? I'm trying to figure out how they would stay put....

Rock Krawler Suspension

Your bump stops are to do 1 of 2 things (whichever happens first) either limit your up travel to keep the tires from touching the fenders/body OR to keep the shocks from bottoming out (completely collapsing). Cycling the suspension without your shock in doesn't really tell you much. Our bump stop recommendations on our website are determined by the shock that you pair with the kit.

RK

SoK66

You made a good start at determining the optimum bump stop. With the tires, springs, shocks, the yellow upper bump stop snubbers and any kit supplied bump stop extensions removed, slowly raise the axle with floor jacks on each end of the axle, like on the control arm mounts. Raise until you can determine the first point of contact between the axle and it's components (track bar, steering, etc.) and the frame. Take a measurement on each side between the upper bump stop tube and the axle bump stop pad. add about 1/2" and that is your absolute minimum bump stop requirement. Next, repeat with the shocks installed and stop when you have about 1/2" of rod exposed on each shock. Measure the upper and lower bump stop clearance again, this becomes your new minimum. Now install the wheels & tires, repeat the process of raising the axle and again stop at the point at which you only have about 1/2" clearance between the tire and the underside of the flare. Then turn the tires full lock each way and lower the axle if necessary at any point so you can maintain that 1/2" clearance between the tire and flare/inner fender lock to lock. (Some guys will even drop one side to the max shock extension and turn the wheels lock to lock.) Take THAT bump stop measurement . This becomes your new minimum bump stop.

The first measurement is your absolute minimum to prevent axle and component damaging steel-on-steel axle & frame contact, your second is what's needed to prevent potentially shock destroying bottoming out, your third is what's needed to prevent the tires from making contact. The correct bump stop length is the one that gets you the most up travel without the axle & its buddies hitting anything hard, the shock not bottoming out and the tires not hitting anything off or slashing themselves on the flares, etc. This can mean you have to leave some shock compression on the table. OTOH, you can get some longer shocks and get it all back on extension. An old timer once told me that compression travel was over rated, that your best flex gains come from extension. Bear in mind that the more compression you have, the less clearance you have underneath. Hope this helps.

Ajkaz

Thanks for the direction! I now know exactly what I'm doing this weekend.