Wrangler22

Yes I know there are many many threads on this topic. I have read where a lot of people say don't waste your money on long arm kits because it's not worth the money. On the other hand you have people and also company reps that will tell you that if you have the money do a long arm upgrade because it's the better investment.

I'm leaning on forum members to help me out. I'm currently setup on 3.5" lift, flat fenders and 37's with stock arms. It has crossed my mind several times to consider going to 40's but don't plan on going any higher (lift) if I don't have to. My main issue is getting my axles centered back and angled like they should be to improve the ride quality and pinion angles. I didn't buy the jeep for a Honda Accord ride but it could definitely be better. I also wheel around 3-4 times a year and use the jeep as a DD where I travel about 30 miles on the interstate a day. I want reliability! Any help is greatly appreciated.

jedg

If your goal is to center the axles and get your caster set correctly... and probably some steering geometry corrected (depends on what your lift is doing to the drag link compared to the track bar) then you not NEED a long arm kit. You need adjustable track bars (and maybe a raised track bar bracket on the front), a raised track bar bracket on the rear (your kit may have come with that). That'll center the axles. Then you need adjustable control arms on the front to get the caster set properly. And finally, possibly adjustable control arms on the rear to set the pinion angle.

As for the decision on long arm vs short arm, I can't speak much to that as I don't have experience with long arm kits. I'll say that I'm running 3 1/8" actual lift on the front and 3" of actual lift on the rear with mid-arms (which is what is really on a JK.. when compared to the TJ arms that most folks reference as short arms). I run 37s with flat fenders (and hydro assist steering) I have the caster correct, the steering geometry correct, and my axles centered. The jeep drives fine and it's a DD for me. I rock crawl it around 1 to 2 times a month and have yet to be in a situation where the setup I have is the reason I don't make an obstacle.. rather it's my driving or lack of experience on choosing a line.

Hope that helps a bit.

Smudgeontheglass

If your Jeep is mainly a mall crawler or is used for light trail use, geometry correction brackets are your friend. The beefy ones from JKS or the completely functional ones from AEV, Rubicon Express, and the like should be fine. They give you long arm control arm angles without being long arms. They are what I use and the drive is perfectly fine. You can pair them with adjustable control arms to dial in your setup as well.

40s typically require going to 1 tons at which point a long arm coilover setup shouldn't be outside your view.

Wrangler22

So I have a RE Front Adjustable Track bar but drops from the frame.... I know this isn't the ideal thing to have but at the time I didnt know any better and 4wd sold me on it. I also have a Synergy Adjustable Drag link Flip kit. Everything seems to be pretty parallel in the front.

Wrangler22

I have the AEV drop brackets installed but trying to get away from them.

Smudgeontheglass

Alright, going with the information in your profile and the notes you've given here.

- The Rancho 9000 shocks are not bad, but if you want a more comfortable ride try switching to Bilstein monotubes or even the Teraflex falcon shocks for more comfort.
- Pro comp is not the worst out there for lifts, but they use single rate coils. You could get more comfort by switching to a multi-rate coil.
- If you have a drag link flip, you should have an axle side track bar bracket.
- Axle side track bar bracket in the rear would be preferred too and getting an adjustable in the rear will help with rear wander due to the weak stock bar on larger tires.
- 20" Wheels help with on-road stability but generally result in a harsher ride due to more unsprung weight. Consider trying a smaller wheel.
- Geometry correction brackets give you the driving angles of a long arm kit but do not give you any more flex than stock arms. I like mine as a mostly daily driver, if you play on hardcore rocks, a different setup is for you. If you're a weekend warrior, they help a lot more than you're giving them credit. Purhaps they're on the wrong bolt hole for your ride height.

BoraBora

How are the Bilsteins more comfortable than the Rancho's?? I've run both and the Rancho's are much smoother. That's the beauty of adjustability.

Wrangler22

So I guess I need to update my profile. I recently changed my 4" pro comp springs to 3.5" RK dual rated springs.

Rancho 9000's have treated me good but for some reason I find shocks don't last me a long time. I also considered the Fox 2.0 shocks for future upgrade.

Also have considered trading my 20's for some 18's but man do I love the look!

TheDirtman

Long arms are better if they are done right but unfortionatlly most of all the JK long arm kits cut corners and typically have poor geometry. Genright has the best long arm kit out there but around $30k just for the parts is a stopping point for most people. The big issue is the factory fuel tank being in the way and the fact everyone uses the factory brackets on the axle. In the end you spend a bunch o money for a half assed designed kit and get little benefit over a quality short arm lift.

Wrangler22

What are your thoughts of Synergy long arm upgrade which is a bolt on kit that can be welded? My future would be to get some tons but the cost right now is kind of out of my plan. This is why I have been considering going long arm now vs later. Obviously want to make the better decision overall. Thanks for the input!