There are good things about it and poor things about it like most other kits out there, geometry is still compromised. I would just wait until you get new axles if tons are in your plans so you are not doing things twice. This kit does raise the roll center and gives decent separation at the frame end. The uppers and lower are both long which is good for pinion angle. I don't care for the correction wedges and relocating the coil perches would be better. Its a lot of money for that lift. It is one of the better long arm kits out there and with some custom twerking it could be better.

When you take factory axles and rotate them to correct caster and rear pinion angles you throw everything else off. The track bar brackets are no longer in alignment, the coil perches are no longer level, your sway bar links are pulled closer to the axle. All this stuff affects ride and a really good designed lift will take axle brackets into account as well as the frame brackets.

 

So I agree with waiting and not wasting more money. With that being said should I invest in some short arms for the time being and just sell them later?

I'm assuming that because of my pinion angle this is why my rear springs look like this?

 

Wouldn't spring perch location also be the culprit? If you JK is lifted, and you pinion angle set properly, it would seem to me that the spring perch would then be in the wrong spot. This is why they sell correction wedges.

I have the wedges myself, and it's still not where I want them to be. Now that I have a good welder and am taking classes, I will likely look at cutting off my stock perches and welding on Artec or Barnes 4WD replacements this year. Now I need a plasma cutter.

 

Pinion correction with adjustable arms will cause bow as well. To properly do it so you get the coils straight would be to cut off the axle perch and move it back and level then weld it back on. You can add adjustable arms and put the axle back in the center of the wheel well and then cut and rotate the coil perches so they sit level at ride height.

 

Like they had said correction wedges will only give you so much, but the best way to do it is to cut them off and weld a new set on flat!

RK

 

Sounds like I have some work to do! I guess I should buy the adjustable arms then cut and re-weld to get me back centered. I will also need read adjustable track bar.

 

This. 40's are the magic number for opening up a new hole to throw money into. Axles, long arms, coilovers, brakes, driveshafts, and on and on and on. You can get away with a bunch with 35's and even 37's if you're careful (and on D44's), but the clock is ticking on what's going to break first.

Skip the 18's and jump back to 17's. Much more in the way of options for tires over the 18's. This gets covered on a pretty regular basis around here.

 

Funny you say 17's as I just found a guy local that is selling some 16' Rubi wheels for $300

 

First off, long arms will do NOTHING to help with your axle position.

The only reason to get a long arm is because you are over 4" of lift and want the following:

Better on road handled
Better off road handling at high speed only

Truthfully, you don't need a long arm and the cost is quite high for the little benefits gained unless you need big improvements in the 2 points above.

I have 4+" lift on 37s with short arms, and yea, long arms would be nice, but not $4000+ nice and I really like my ride and setup a lot. EVO plush coils and King 2.5 shocks, adjustable control arms all the way around.

 

Actually during extreme rock crawling long arms will decrease the amount of axle shift you get and your tires will stay in place better and not slide or push as much as short arms will.