I just put on new tires 285/75/16 with new crager wheels on my Jeep jk with 4 inch lift. In turns the traction control wants to kick on and at high speeds jeep seems to be unstable .. do I nees to decrease my ties pressure? Or disable the traction control. The tries are treadwights

 

More info on the lift

Alignment ? Ie caster and toe

Steering wheel center should cure the TC issue but sounds to me you need caster correction.

 

Its a Rough country 4 inch lift stock control arms stock drive shafts I had a alignment done about 3 months ago

 

How many degrees was your caster set at? If they set it to factory spec your steering will be very flighty. Need to be about 5 degrees + caster, center your steering wheel. Lower your tire air pressure to 28-30 lbs.
You will need aftermarket adjustable control arms up front to adjust your caster unless you go with cam bolts. I'd avoid the cam bolts, have never heard or read anything good about them.

 

Your lift came with cam bolts and a drop pitman/trackbar relo bracket? Post your alignment specs. As noted above, low caster could cause the flighty steering, and some have posted about better handling after removing the drop pitman/bracket and going to an adj trackbar.

Traction control on turns after a lift was addressed by the folks at Chrysler way back when with a steering wheel dance to turn the system off. If re-centering the steering wheel doesn't help, look up the procedure and see if you can get it to work.

 

Cheap quick and easy fix that will make your jeep drive great control arm drop brackets. I'm running Rancho's but AEV and RC has them too.

Like already mentioned its prob your caster which is not adjustable with stock arms.

Do you off road and need clearance or is the jeep mostly DD?
With the brackets you will lose clearance. Not as bad with a 4" lift and/or bigger tires. You can also do front lower adjustable CA's (longer) Or adjustable upper CA's (shorter) for caster correction.

 

Good call call on the cam bolts if he does have them. Actually I've heard story's of cam bolts going bad and causing slack in the suspension.

I would remove them. Up caster with the other options listed and use 9/16 bolts. He may have to weld washers to fix the boxed out holes in the axle mounts.

 

Well I just got done lowering the air pressure on each wheel to about 32 psi. . I took the jeep for a drive it drives better and yes I do wheel it about 6 to 7 times a year no rock crawling tho. If I'm not mistaken the RC 4 inch lift on the front control arms had replacement bolts I remember having to cut out squares and then putting the new bolts on with the lower control arms .. I don't know if that's cam bolts or not. I'm still a newbie but I'm learning .

 

Yep, those are cam bolts, and they allow a small amount of caster adjustment. If they have slipped, the caster could have lowered causing the flighty steering. (or if they were not adjusted correctly to begin with). Stock caster is roughly 4 degrees. Many people prefer to be up in the 5-6 degree range after a lift. If at some point you decide to remove those cams and go with another form of caster correction, you will want to get the holes you punched out of the brackets welded back up.

 

I know with the AEV brackets, included is 2 shouldered bolts to replace cam bolts in their earlier kits. I would try a 9/16 first. If there's slop with the cam bolt removed, weld two thick 14mm/9/16 washers on each side.

Do you have a angle or smart phone with a angle app?

There's two flat circles on each side of the front diff that are perpendicular to the flange. Gauging pinion angle and some simple math will get you a good caster estimate.

Stock pinion is 2*
Caster 4*
For a total of 6* between them.