BigRich26

Looking for advise on improving the steering on my JK. Like many I'm budget conscious, however I do not want to skimp on something as important as steering; at the same time I do not wish to pay for a name.
I have a 2011 JKU Rubi. I bought it used with what appears to be a Pro Comp Stage 1 4" lift, (upgrading that will be a priority at a later date). The drag link and track bar are stock. I've looked at many drag link flip kits; I'm leaning towards the Synergy drag link and adapter to flip, however will I also need to purchase a new track bar or relocate it? Second would be which is the better option new or relocating?
Opinions on the Synergy drag link and track bar would also be welcomed, along with alternatives.

resharp001

How are you managing with a factory TB on a 4" lift? I presume you don't have a raised bracket for that on the axle side otherwise you'd already have a DL flip.

If you're on a 4" lift and don't have adjustable arms or geometry brackets, and hopefully not cam bolts, don't forget that your caster is probably out of whack and will have an impact on steering as well. Doing a DL flip would help, but you should also consider getting your caster corrected. When it comes to steering and suspension components, you're going to get what you pay for. It's not quite the same as buying bumpers and such where you might be able to skimp a little if you chose to.

Most your DL flip kits are going to include a raised TB mount for the axle side. It is still worth looking at an adjustable TB so that you can get your front axle centered perfectly.

BigRich26

Thank you Resharp001, once improve the steering I have to replace the shocks (rears are blown) after that I plan on replacing the lower control arms (probably followed by uppers),but that will be another topic once I get to that point.

resharp001

Control arm brackets are only like $100 or so. You could always get some, put them on, and then when you can afford to do adjustable control arms just turn around and sell the brackets. They'll hold their value for a resale, and they really will make a big difference in the way your jeep feels. As far as track bars go, a lot of it is personal preference in the joint that each manufacturer uses. I had a synergy TB before they updated both ends recently, and have changed to Rock Krawler. The RK is a nice TB and actually one of the lesser expensive ones, but it's a little more of a hassle to adjust and torque the jam nuts. Synergy products have a nice method of adjusting with their double sleeves, but you will definitely pay for that convenience. One little gripe about the Synergy DL is the boots don't like to stay in place....or at least they didn't used to. In a perfect world, you could flip your DL which would require a raised TB bracket (so your DL and TB continue to be at the same angle) and also upgrade your TB as well.

nthinuf

The trackbar and draglink need to remain as parallel as possible. So when you move one end of the draglink (raise axle end to top of knuckle, or lower frame end with drop pitman), you need to do something to change the angle on the trackbar at the same time. An adjustable trackbar by itself will not accomplish this. The synergy kit uses a raised trackbar bracket, then as noted above, if you want to further center the axle, add an adj trackbar later.


What caster correction came with the lift? What is the caster now? If you are running with low caster, I would think about this before throwing money at a flip.

BigRich26

Thank you, not sure what's on it now for the casters. Maybe I'll hold off on the shocks (or just replace the blown rears with another set of cheap ES9000's) and buy front lower control arms and a steering kit.

nthinuf

Before indiscriminately throwing parts at it, take a step back and explain what the actual complaints with the steering are. Just from a quick look at the components in the 4" procomp stage 1 kit, my guess is flightiness due to lack of caster correction, and maybe some body roll due to the lack of a rear raised trackbar bracket? Something else?

You can get an idea of what the caster is set to with a cheap angle finder, or many alignment shops will do free checks and print out the 'before' specs.

And take a look at the installed components to verify what you are working with. If you aren't sure, snap a few pics and post them. Both sides, front and rear, from spots giving a good view of the components. (Both ends of the rear trackbar. Both ends of the front trackbar & draglink, and try to get these two in a single pic so we can see the current angles. The front control arms, including the bolts on the lower arms at the axle end, so we can see if you have cams. etc)

resharp001

Agreed. Start by figuring out what you have right now. G.I. Joe always said "knowing is half the battle" Once you know what you have, you're going to get more appropriate advice. At one point I had a 4" Pro Comp lift so I'd bet you have those ES9000 shocks, 4" springs, an adjustable front TB, and a raised rear TB bracket.....and not a whole lot more. Snap some pics and you'll get some quick feedback. As suggested, finding your caster is going to tell you a lot as well. Cheap angle finder to measure the pinion angle and then calculating backwards to find your caster will tell a lot. If you can't find how to do it online with an easy search, just measure and post the pinion angle and I or someone else will chime in quickly. Also, might describe how you intend to use the jeep. Is this mainly going to stay on the street, going to do light wheeling (fire road type stuff), or are you looking to get more in to rock crawling type stuff? What you plan to do will also determine the advice you get back. Start by snapping some pics from underneath. I'd also guess you don't have bump stops adjusted properly, but best to take one step at a time here....

BigRich26

Thank you both, I'll post pictures tomorrow. It's mainly a DD, however I like to explore and get into moderate rock crawling situations. Quite frankly aside from improving the handling ( it pulls badly to the left, no bump steer to speak of and not what would call flighty) and improving the suspension so I have the necessary articulation when/ if needed , the stock rubi options would allow me do to most of what I wish to do.
I should probably clarify as well that while I'm budget conscious because I know price doesn't always indicate performance. I have no problem paying for quality, I just don't want to pay for a name.

nthinuf

There have been posts indicating that certain tires have been known to cause pulls to one side, so, what'cha got? Or maybe its just the Toe setting. If you get some time, find one of those shops that does free checks and post all the numbers.