wayoflife

if i'm reading this correctly, what you are saying is incorrect. you NEED to torque your bolts with the full weight of your jeep on the ground just as the FSM states. if you do not, your bushing will be in a state of bind.

Beta-pg

Hey Wayoflife (quite a fitting name, by the way! ) ... I have 4 new 2.2 shocks and a new RC 2.2 Stabilizer going on today or tomorrow. Along with some new, longer quick disco's. See if that helps it out.

sdhexpert

Just my 2 cents ..... but I had similar issues after my lift. I then purchased the clayton control arms, top and bottom front and rear. Pushed my rear wheel back about an inch. Adjusted my caster to about 6 degrees. Adjusted my toe in to 1/8". Tire pressure 30 lbs. You cannot believe the difference. This thing went from being a chore to drive to a pleasure. I take it now over our other two cars just going down the block to the store. Would not do that before. Listen to these people with the steering geometry corrected, it makes ALL the difference.

sn4cktime

Well, it's the way I did do it and no issues. BUT, I'm going to re-read the instructions right now to see how RC specifically states to do it. I could be wrong. I just did it the same order that I used to on big-rig's suspension when I did axle rolls with a heavy duty mechanic. We ALWAYS torqued everything with full droop, set it down, double checked the torque, ripped it around the block to make sure, re-torque, then out the door. Reading time.

sn4cktime

Let me just start with this isn't to instigate an argument, only to show RC's instruction wording and my take on it. I would suggest calling them, I'm sure they can run through some things you may have goofed on and not realized or come up with a solution. On with the wording.

Also, the full instrucion cet can be dowloaded @ http://www.roughcountry.com/install/656.pdf

Okay, as per any part of their instructions to do with bolts:

Front:
8. Install the shock bracket as shown in Photo 5 on the lower front mount at this time with supplied 12mm sleeves, 12mm x 65mm bolts and 5/16” x 3/4” bolts. See Photo 6. Tighten using a 18mm for the 12mm bolt and a 1/2” for the 5/16”.Please note that there is a right and left side and the bracket will only install one way.
9. Install the stock shock with the factory bolt in the lower shock mount and tighten using a 18mm socket and wrench.
9. Reinstall the front tires/wheels and tighten to factory specifications.
10. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Install the sway bar links on the sway bar using factory hardware using a 18mm wrench after the vehicle is on the ground. Do not install the sway bar link on the sway bar until the sway bar is on the ground.Photo 5 Photo 6
11. blah, blah draglink.

Rear:
In the rear they never say "tighten" in any part. They say "install" or "reinstall" so that is ambiguous there.
-They also mentioned lowering the vehicle "slightly" to help seat the coils, which never seemed to be an issue for me as they pretty much seat themselves once you bolt the shocks back in.

Post Installation:
1. Check all fasteners for proper torque. Check to ensure there is adequate clearance between all rotating, mobile, fixed and heated members. Check steering for interference and proper working order. Test brake system.

I assumed that to mean that everything should already be tightened and at this point you're just making sure that adding the vehicles' full weight onto these components hasn't loosened something - which it shouldn't have if everything was torqued already. And seems to be the "make sure you didn't F something up stage"


Like I said, I could be totally wrong, it's not like I'm a licensed mechanic. But I also don't have any issues with handling at all. Slow speeds, 70mph, wheeling - all fine. No wobble, no darty/flighty steering. Turns on a dime, sticks to the road, doesn't wander in road ruts like my tiny stock tires did, and no rub except for absolute maxed out flex with 5" backspaced wheels. Doesn't contact the pinch seam either. It could be wrong, but it's working. I've also taken a look underneath, nothing is at any wonky angle, all bushings appear to be centered, there's no cracking/tearing/chunks missing, and all components move smoothly while flexing.

CALL RC and see what they say to fix YOUR specific issues. They designed it after all. My setup is working awesome and I'd still recommend their BB to others.

wayoflife

while installing your swaybar links will be easier to do with your jeep on the ground, that isn't what i was refering to and it really shouldn't matter with them. what i was refering to was your track bars and control arms. it is important to torque them down with the full weight of your jeep on the ground.

wayoflife

as i just responded to JLowy, the only components that you need to make sure to torque while your jeep is on the ground are track bars and control arms. while the RC instructions are thorough enough, this is what the Jeep Factory Service Manual specifically states you should do during the re-installation of these components and i can tell you that it is done to prevent any bind in the bushings. just because it's working for you doesn't mean that tortional bind in your bushing doesn't exist. if nothing else, it will lead to their premature wear.

rangleme

Interesting you brought this up, I have the same bb and noticed a change in the way my steering feels. I can't really help answer but want to follow what is being said here.