gadawg31

Hello everyone,

I am still chasing my wandering issue on my '09 JKU and wanted to ask for some clarification/education opinions. The previous owner apparently had a rough country lift put on (I'm not 100% sure, but we think it is at least a 4-6" lift.) and it has dual front stabilizer shocks. My question is: are they both really necessary? It feels like it makes my steering more stiff when turning, but that could just be my inexperience. I've gone thru all of the front end components and none seem to be worn to the point of being sloppy. I've had the tires re-balanced and I have been running 32lbs in each 35x12.5R18 tire. Just wanted to get some ideas from those that may have had the same issue and what you all did to correct the problem. Thanks.

JD

resharp001

Here's the deal. You really don't need a SS at all. If the jeep doesn't drive perfectly without one then something isn't set up right. The SS is just kinda there to keep harmony in the steering linkage if you will. A proper SS should have a neutral charge/resistance and just be along for the ride regardless of it expanding or collapsing based on how you're turning. The problem is that people will not know better and they will put a gas-charged unit there that has strong positive pressure and always trying to expand.....which leads to the SS pushing the TR in a direction, creating wander. Oh, so the solution is now to put TWO SS on in opposite directions to counteract each other right? Well, no, but they do as you see on your jeep. . So y, your comment about steering being pretty stiff makes a lot of sense. Another reason people will put a dual SS in is that they have a problem in their steering components that needs to be addressed, typically bad ball joints, but instead of addressing the root cause they decide they need to cover up the symptom. This is one component where the cheapest thing, including the original factory unit, is perfectly fine.

Anyhow, I suspect the source of a lot of your woes will lie in that drop pitman arm (if that is indeed what it is per the pics in the other thread), lift height, and likely low caster. I'd suggest post up your lift measurents as you saw those pictures in the other thread, and take pictures that show the full axle from side to side so we can see the entire set up. also take pictures of the control arms mounted on both the frame and axle and take a full picture of the rear axle/track bar situation.

gadawg31

Hey reshard, I took the measurements and I took a few more pics including one of my son's jeep that has a 3.25" lift and all of his front end components are stock.

Frond End measurements: 13" / Rear End measurements: 7" When I do the math it doesn't add up for what the seller told me. They said there was a 6" lift, but I am coming up with 3.625" difference on the front and only 1.81" on the rear. There is 35x12.5xR18 Geolander A/T tires on 18x10" wheels. Other than those two RC SS on the front, it looks almost identical to my son's front end. My son has 33x10.5R18 Nitto Ridge Graps on 18x10 wheels and his drives and rides like it was new. Here are the pics: The one titled MAD is my son's front end. Hope this all helps.





This is my son's front end for comparison.

resharp001

What looked like it could have been a drop pitman arm looks factory with those last pictures. There is no high steer kit installed as the DL and TB are mounted in factory locations. The lower control arms are not stock so i'd stick with the thought that they are longer fixed-length arms which should have increased caster, though if enough remains to be determined. You'd really need to get an alignment in order to see what caster was.

A couple things. That is more likely a 4" lift with a bit of sagging. Bit surprising the rear isn't bit higher. Same color/matching springs? At that height you might benefit from a high steer kit that includes a raised TB bracket and a drag link you can flip to the top of the knuckle. That would flatten out your steering angles a decent bit. Not required but it can make a difference. I think if I were you I would unbolt both of those stabilizers and just take it for a drive to see what it feels like without them. I'd hit bumps/potholes intentionally to see if you get any adverse feedback in your steering and to test out the components. You can also observe if the wander is still present. Perfectly fine to drive like that and a no-cost troubleshooting option.

gadawg31

Thanks for the look and suggestions. I do have it scheduled for the alignment shop next week and you answered my question about removing the SS. I have been looking on the forums for a stock SS to try and put back to factory. I will post what the alignment guys says as he is old school and does not have printed results. He still uses the old Bear alignment equipment and is supposed to be the best. Hopefully with your advice and his results I can get this back to normal. Also forgot to mention it has an aftermarket bumper with winch that some have stated could cause front end to sag but not sure if that theory or not.

nthinuf

Does that look like a dual rate coil to anyone else? Might point to RC's long arm kits? (unless they were bought outside of a kit, I guess.) Maybe take a quick look and see if your components match up to that kit?

No drop pitman included. Are the links disconnects, or just adjustable? Check the arms and compare. At least it might help narrow down what is installed.

https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-lo...21=695&154=587

gadawg31

I just pulled the SS off and took it for a drive. I can say that it is definitely not as stiff. I hit as many bumps as possible and nothing major happened. I did feel a little wobble during some of the bumps but It was not dramatic. The pulling to the left has almost gone completely away just with pulling the SS. I have dropped tire pressure down to 30lbs but may raise back to 32 to see if that makes any difference. Now to see what the alignment guy says. Thanks for the help so far.

resharp001

THere should be no wobble at all, so that is a bit concerning and makes me think you got either 1) a bad joint/component or 2) a loose bolt. "Bumpsteer" can be a normal thing if lifted and low caster (which we can't rule out here yet), but a wobble of any sort (repeated steering wheel movement) is not normal.

gadawg31

Thanks. I am not going to guarantee you that I used the correct term "wobble". It could have been bumpsteer, not sure. I do know when I hit some of the bumps in the road it seemed to be the front end did something weird. I have it scheduled for alignment shop tomorrow, so hopefully I will have some more news for you all and maybe an answer. The guys is supposed to be the best around so we will see what he can find.
NOTE: I did replace the factory SS yesterday, so the dual RC stuff is off and steering is a little less stiff now.

/r
JD

resharp001

bumpsteer is just a quick jerk of the steering wheel for the most part. As far as alignment goes just keep in mind that with fixed length control arms, all they can adjust is toe and re-center your steering wheel. That said, it's important to know what your caster is. If it were me, I'd just go to a basic firestone, midas, or similar and tell them you want an alignment. At that point they will scan it and present you with the specs and ask if you want the work performed. There is no shame declining it (since you know all they can do is adjust toe and center your steering) and you walk out the door with your sheet for free. My point here being that there's not a lot of sense to pay $200+ for an alignment when they can't do much. If you had full adjustable arms then it is worth it to pay for a real alignment from a great shop that will adjust all that stuff for you. My 2c at least.