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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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suggestions on approach to a 3.5" kit

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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 11:33 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by robin
if you're not thinking of spending too much, ask about the price on those evo coilovers and you'll stop liking them, as for the arms, if they're not adjustable there's no point on buying them just for cosmetics. there are plenty of kits available for a good price.
Your are correct on this after further research 500 per shock...
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 05:16 PM
  #12  
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A 3.5" lift for a 4 door will likely require a front and rear driveline mod and that is going to run you about $1k +/-. The RE 3.5" kit highly recommends replacing both the front and rear drivelines with aftermarket drivelines.
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 06:17 PM
  #13  
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I heard that on the 2 door but I had not realized a 4 door was having this same issue of needing driveline replacement. You'd think they would just make those part of the kit.
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 06:20 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by NE Wrangling
I heard that on the 2 door but I had not realized a 4 door was having this same issue of needing driveline replacement. You'd think they would just make those part of the kit.
Clayton says neither is necessary on a 4door. Airock says you can lower the tranny plate (I think) w/some washers to get the front to clear. From what I've heard, the only reason you need a new front d/s is 'cause the aftermarket ones are smaller in diameter, so they clear.

That's not to say you wouldn't get improved quality/durability/clearance from a new one, but me, I'm going to wait until I see how my new lift (if I ever decide ) fits before shelling out the extra $$.
See the FAQ for confirmation.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 06:12 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by scottcarp
Clayton says neither is necessary on a 4door. Airock says you can lower the tranny plate (I think) w/some washers to get the front to clear. From what I've heard, the only reason you need a new front d/s is 'cause the aftermarket ones are smaller in diameter, so they clear.

That's not to say you wouldn't get improved quality/durability/clearance from a new one, but me, I'm going to wait until I see how my new lift (if I ever decide ) fits before shelling out the extra $$.
See the FAQ for confirmation.
Some others on this forum have cut a notch out of the tranny plate to get around the issue of the stock CV boot contacting the tranny skid plate. Both options are worth a try so that you don't have to fork out the additional $$ for an aftermarket driveline.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 08:57 PM
  #16  
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Default A side bar question

A silly question for you guys who know suspension better than I: When spekaing of lift systems what does the term BB mean? Budget Built?
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 06:30 AM
  #17  
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Thanks Ryan37
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:27 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ryan37
On the topic though, the clayton kit looks like the sweet set up! I would stick with the bb till you have enough saved for a full kit. Or go with a nice set of lower arms of your choice and the jks acos pro's up front
HIJACK ALERT!

I just pulled the trigger on the Clayton 3.5". Should be here in a week or so.
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 07:43 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by biglynny
A silly question for you guys who know suspension better than I: When spekaing of lift systems what does the term BB mean? Budget Built?
Close. BB= Budget Boost or an inexpensive form of suspension lift.
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Old Jul 15, 2008 | 03:09 PM
  #20  
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ive got the TF BB but i am looking at the rustys 3.25 alllllll the time and i think its time for a change
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