Suspension issues & not sure what to look at first
I have put a set of tires and wheels on my wife's 09 JK unlimited and noticed that the ride was a bit stiffer with the addition of the Nittto Terra grapplers. She wanted it a little higher so I bought a Black Diamond budget Boost and put on the pucks. Quite a bit stiffer so I put on a set of the rs9000xl shocks and have tried all settings. Noticed that it didn't really change the ride much but when she hits a pothole it will go into a hopping wobble frenzy. I didn't have it aligned after any of the mods but it drives straight and no tire wear at all. I tried to lower the tire pressure but the light bugs her too much so back up to 35psi. The jeep has never been off of the pavement and has 54,xxx miles on it. Is there anyone out there that has experienced the same crap and how did you fix it?
What is the load range of the new tires vs the old? Grab a procal and lower the psi threshold so the light doesn't turn on when you lower the tire psi.
How tall are the pucks? Anything other than pucks installed at the same time? Were the ca and trackbar bolts loosened when you installed the pucks to keep them from binding? And then re-tightened under full vehicle weight? All bolts torqued to spec?
How tall are the pucks? Anything other than pucks installed at the same time? Were the ca and trackbar bolts loosened when you installed the pucks to keep them from binding? And then re-tightened under full vehicle weight? All bolts torqued to spec?
285/70/17 standard load tires. I believe the pucks were 2.5". I think I tightened everything up while it was still on the jack stands actually. Nothing other than the pucks were put on at that time. I will try to loosen up everything today on the ground and see if that helps.
OK, I just loosened up everything on the front end (track bars and sway bar ends) and set the shocks at 0 and it is a softer ride but it still wants to start wobbling and shaking the steering wheel back and forth to the point that if you hit the brakes the bounces and chirps on the pavement.
ONE thing I did notice is that the pucks are a hair over 3" tall on the front and must be a bit shorter on the rear because it sits level. Could the sway bar connects be too short? Spacer between frame and sway bar connection points on the frame?
ONE thing I did notice is that the pucks are a hair over 3" tall on the front and must be a bit shorter on the rear because it sits level. Could the sway bar connects be too short? Spacer between frame and sway bar connection points on the frame?
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OK, I just loosened up everything on the front end (track bars and sway bar ends) and set the shocks at 0 and it is a softer ride but it still wants to start wobbling and shaking the steering wheel back and forth to the point that if you hit the brakes the bounces and chirps on the pavement. ONE thing I did notice is that the pucks are a hair over 3" tall on the front and must be a bit shorter on the rear because it sits level. Could the sway bar connects be too short? Spacer between frame and sway bar connection points on the frame?
OK, I just loosened up everything on the front end (track bars and sway bar ends) and set the shocks at 0 and it is a softer ride but it still wants to start wobbling and shaking the steering wheel back and forth to the point that if you hit the brakes the bounces and chirps on the pavement.
ONE thing I did notice is that the pucks are a hair over 3" tall on the front and must be a bit shorter on the rear because it sits level. Could the sway bar connects be too short? Spacer between frame and sway bar connection points on the frame?
ONE thing I did notice is that the pucks are a hair over 3" tall on the front and must be a bit shorter on the rear because it sits level. Could the sway bar connects be too short? Spacer between frame and sway bar connection points on the frame?
With tires on ground. Recheck track bar torque and shock bolts to. With those size pucks you have also changed
The castor and pinion angle, and you probably need longer sway bar links if your still using the stock ones..wouldn't
Hurt to get alignment checked , ie toe
Last edited by Rebar-7; Nov 9, 2014 at 11:53 AM.
Rotate the tires? Get them re-balanced?
The caster is lower after the lift, which causes flighty steering. You will probably want some form of caster correction, but this is not what you are describing. Never heard anyone talk about bouncing and chirping from low caster.
You want the swaybars to be level with the ground/frame, so look at adding longer rear links and then move the stock rears to the front. Or get front disconnects? Short links (angled down swaybars) should not affect onroad driving(?) - but when flexed offroad (or on a lift at the shop) you can flip a swaybar around backward and cause a really cool picture opportunity.
Nothing was added other than pucks, right? As you lift higher, both axles offset to one side. (trackbar brackets and/or adjustable trackbars). The brakelines will be stretched when flexed, or on a lift. The bumpstops will probably be too short. The shocks will be too short for the lift height, limiting downtavel, look into brackets or longer shocks. The roll center will be higher, look at a rear raised bracket if you want to correct.
With no adjustable components, the only thing an alignment shop will be able to check is the Toe In/Out, and recenter the steering wheel. See if you can find a shop that does free, or cheap, alignment checks so you have a printout without paying for a full alignment that doesn't change anything.
And, stuck right to the top of the Write-Ups area is a great DeathWobble diagnosis. Wouldn't hurt to go through that a few times to check for loose/worn components.
The caster is lower after the lift, which causes flighty steering. You will probably want some form of caster correction, but this is not what you are describing. Never heard anyone talk about bouncing and chirping from low caster.
You want the swaybars to be level with the ground/frame, so look at adding longer rear links and then move the stock rears to the front. Or get front disconnects? Short links (angled down swaybars) should not affect onroad driving(?) - but when flexed offroad (or on a lift at the shop) you can flip a swaybar around backward and cause a really cool picture opportunity.
Nothing was added other than pucks, right? As you lift higher, both axles offset to one side. (trackbar brackets and/or adjustable trackbars). The brakelines will be stretched when flexed, or on a lift. The bumpstops will probably be too short. The shocks will be too short for the lift height, limiting downtavel, look into brackets or longer shocks. The roll center will be higher, look at a rear raised bracket if you want to correct.
With no adjustable components, the only thing an alignment shop will be able to check is the Toe In/Out, and recenter the steering wheel. See if you can find a shop that does free, or cheap, alignment checks so you have a printout without paying for a full alignment that doesn't change anything.
And, stuck right to the top of the Write-Ups area is a great DeathWobble diagnosis. Wouldn't hurt to go through that a few times to check for loose/worn components.
Last edited by nthinuf; Nov 9, 2014 at 12:27 PM.



