Suspension issues & not sure what to look at first
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 14
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From: Joplin, mo
The tires and wheels were put on 35,xxx miles ago and have been rotated and balanced regularly.
I have put the Rancho RS9000xl shocks on when I put the pucks on to fix the shock length difference.
The sway bar is tilted down about 15 degrees from level with the frame so I will definitely get longer links for that but how would I determine how long the track bars need to be?
Nothing moves at all under the front end that I can find so I don't think there is any worn bushing.
I will get it into the local alignment shop and get it checked out this week.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 2
From: Parker, Colorado
I loosened up everything with it sitting on the ground in the driveway and bounced around on the bumper to flex everything a bit. Not a dumbass... I didn't drive down the road with the bolts loose. I understand with some you may need to make sure but I'm not that guy. The tires and wheels were put on 35,xxx miles ago and have been rotated and balanced regularly. I have put the Rancho RS9000xl shocks on when I put the pucks on to fix the shock length difference. The sway bar is tilted down about 15 degrees from level with the frame so I will definitely get longer links for that but how would I determine how long the track bars need to be? Nothing moves at all under the front end that I can find so I don't think there is any worn bushing. I will get it into the local alignment shop and get it checked out this week.
Are you using a torque wrench on the track bar and control arm bolts? They need to be tight.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Joplin, mo
Rotate the tires? Get them re-balanced?
The caster is lower after the lift, which causes flighty steering. You will probably want some form of caster correction, but this is not what you are describing. Never heard anyone talk about bouncing and chirping from low caster.
You want the swaybars to be level with the ground/frame, so look at adding longer rear links and then move the stock rears to the front. Or get front disconnects? Short links (angled down swaybars) should not affect onroad driving(?) - but when flexed offroad (or on a lift at the shop) you can flip a swaybar around backward and cause a really cool picture opportunity.
Nothing was added other than pucks, right? As you lift higher, both axles offset to one side. (trackbar brackets and/or adjustable trackbars). The brakelines will be stretched when flexed, or on a lift. The bumpstops will probably be too short. The shocks will be too short for the lift height, limiting downtavel, look into brackets or longer shocks. The roll center will be higher, look at a rear raised bracket if you want to correct.
With no adjustable components, the only thing an alignment shop will be able to check is the Toe In/Out, and recenter the steering wheel. See if you can find a shop that does free, or cheap, alignment checks so you have a printout without paying for a full alignment that doesn't change anything.
And, stuck right to the top of the Write-Ups area is a great DeathWobble diagnosis. Wouldn't hurt to go through that a few times to check for loose/worn components.
The caster is lower after the lift, which causes flighty steering. You will probably want some form of caster correction, but this is not what you are describing. Never heard anyone talk about bouncing and chirping from low caster.
You want the swaybars to be level with the ground/frame, so look at adding longer rear links and then move the stock rears to the front. Or get front disconnects? Short links (angled down swaybars) should not affect onroad driving(?) - but when flexed offroad (or on a lift at the shop) you can flip a swaybar around backward and cause a really cool picture opportunity.
Nothing was added other than pucks, right? As you lift higher, both axles offset to one side. (trackbar brackets and/or adjustable trackbars). The brakelines will be stretched when flexed, or on a lift. The bumpstops will probably be too short. The shocks will be too short for the lift height, limiting downtavel, look into brackets or longer shocks. The roll center will be higher, look at a rear raised bracket if you want to correct.
With no adjustable components, the only thing an alignment shop will be able to check is the Toe In/Out, and recenter the steering wheel. See if you can find a shop that does free, or cheap, alignment checks so you have a printout without paying for a full alignment that doesn't change anything.
And, stuck right to the top of the Write-Ups area is a great DeathWobble diagnosis. Wouldn't hurt to go through that a few times to check for loose/worn components.
It only has the major issues when the jeep hits a bump or pothole.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Joplin, mo
I didn't think you were but also figured that with some "newbies" you need clarification. Yes they are tight.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Joplin, mo
I didn't think you were but also figured that with some "newbies" you need clarification. Yes they are tight.
This is my third JK but fourth wrangler and the only one I used the pucks on. so I really wasn't sure if there was some obvious parts I should have purchased with them.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 2
If you're getting what sounds like the beginnings of death wobble something must be loose.
Lay under the front while your wife cranks back and forth on the steering wheel the key on and engine off and watch both track bar bushings/mounts.
Even a small amount of movement can elicit DW.
Mine did the same occasionally and noticed I had a minut amount of movement at the axle side mount and cranked it down hard and never happened since.
Also, as stated before, you will need either caster correction brackets or lower/upper arms to bring caster back and avoid that shopping cart wheel scenario
Give it a shot.....
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
Lay under the front while your wife cranks back and forth on the steering wheel the key on and engine off and watch both track bar bushings/mounts.
Even a small amount of movement can elicit DW.
Mine did the same occasionally and noticed I had a minut amount of movement at the axle side mount and cranked it down hard and never happened since.
Also, as stated before, you will need either caster correction brackets or lower/upper arms to bring caster back and avoid that shopping cart wheel scenario
Give it a shot.....
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
Last edited by JayswranglerX; Nov 9, 2014 at 03:23 PM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 2
From: Parker, Colorado
I didn't think you were but also figured that with some "newbies" you need clarification. Yes they are tight. This is my third JK but fourth wrangler and the only one I used the pucks on. so I really wasn't sure if there was some obvious parts I should have purchased with them.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
how would I determine how long the track bars need to be?
If you choose not to go through the whole deathwobble video steps, at least verify the torque on the trackbar bolts. They need to be ttiiigghhhhttttt.
JK Junkie
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 0
From: CT
Axle center is not your problem. A raised rear bracket will help position the axle, raise roll center and better handling a little.
Move your rear swaybar links to the front. You can run with the rear disco'd until you get longer rears.
Did you check the ball joints ?
How about play at the sector shaft into the steering box ?
2 door Rubicon, 3.5" lift, 37x12.5x17 MTR's.
Move your rear swaybar links to the front. You can run with the rear disco'd until you get longer rears.
Did you check the ball joints ?
How about play at the sector shaft into the steering box ?
2 door Rubicon, 3.5" lift, 37x12.5x17 MTR's.