Also i highly recommend the superchips flashpak!!! I love it!!! You can def feel the difference and your gonna need a Speedo calibration so you might as well

 

Mine doesn't pull either? Tera 2.5 BB with shock extenders. It's been on my Jeep for over 2 years!

Tera told me the rear relocate bracket is only needed if your wheels don't track straight (that is new to the kit).

My wheels are straight so I put it down to Jeeps being build on different days or something.

 

I pulled these off another site to help better explain it.

Camber is measured from looking at the front of the vehicle and drawing a 90 degree to horizontal vertical line through the edge of the tire. If the top of the tire is in further than the bottom this is negative camber. If the top is out further than the bottom this is positive camber. Negative camber will help a vehicle during cornering due to tire roll over but will also increase tire wear on the inner section of the tire.



Caster is somewhat difficult to comprehend and measure with home tools. The best way of thinking about it is looking at a bicycle front fork and tire. The forks arrive at the center hub at an angle. The positive caster allows the tire to return to center (the reason you can ride a bike with no hands). Another example of extreme negative caster is shopping cart front wheels, they will follow in any direction that it is being pushed. Most Jeeps were equipped with about 4 degrees positive caster with no adjustments. Adding lift kits can mess with the castor decreasing the angle sometimes to the point of becoming negative. This will cause the Jeep to wander about the road. An improper caster angle can make flat towing dangerous and coming out of sharp corners exciting due to the wheel not coming back to center.

 

Well here is a way to look at your TF 2.5BB lift that wasn't mentioned..

I started with the TF2.5BB lift and shock extentions. It was easy to put on drove great. Put on a front bumper and winch. Now my front end saggs and had only 1/2 between front rubber bump stopper and where it hits.. Figured I'd needed to get it back where it was..
Called TF and they had just come out with the coil spring lift! I bought the 4 2.5 coil springs. I didn't need anything elses because I had it already in the 2.5BB lift... I followed the directions of removing BB pucks and reinstalling factory pucks. Installed the coil springs and I was set to go. The lift was more like 2.75-3 inch. Close to factory ride. It is my DD. No wobble, stears straight. TF did a good job...
In the unlimited you don't have to worry about drive shafts till you get over a 3" lift...

Hope this helps..

 

I had the TF 2.5" BB with shocks installed a little over 3 weeks ago. I also put on 33"s. I drive 21 miles one way to work everyday in my 4dr JK. After adding a $55 steering stabilizer, I now feel that my ride is better than before.

Although I do want the TF coils.. I kept the stock Sahara coils on the Jeep and the lift and ride are perfect for me.

 

If your goal is to stay with a ride similar to stock, I would go with the leveling kit. It lifts more than enough to compensate for 33's. It also eliminates the factory rake which is not eliminated with the TF BB. I run the TF 2.5" coil kit and a bunch of extras and I did it. It is a more firm ride than stock but the rake is eliminated via a larger coil in the front than the back. You can also check out the Old Man Emu 2" which is highly recommended by many on the forum.

Now that I have confused you even more, good luck.

 

I have had the Teraflex 2.5 bb kit on for close to 2 years it doesnt pull and the castor only changed about 1 degree. I think WOL done a writeup on this kit

 

I have Teraflex 2.5BB up front and Daystar 1.75BB in the rear to level my Rubi. I am running this set-up, with stock Rubi shocks, for about 22,000 miles and no problems what so ever. Rides better than stock.

With the heavy roof top tent, the stock springs are a tad too soft now; I might be switching to OME HD coils down the road.

 

X2 on this