Hey all....

Getting ready to pull the trigger on a lift. I'm going to go with a Teraflex short arm and a new track bar. I'm looking for some thoughts on the right height. I've been going back and forth for a couple of reasons. I really only want to run 35s, so the 3" should be fine. But, if I end up changing my mind down the road, the 4" will let me upgrade to 37s. But if I go with the 4" and only run 35s, am I sacrificing a lower center of gravity? On 35s, would I get better articulation with the 4" over the 3"?

*In case my profile isn't up to speed, 2dr, non-rubi, will be 4.88 gears, AEV Pintler wheels..not sure on rubber.

The 3-inch...
http://www.teraflex.biz/jk-wrangler-...rm-system.html

or the 4-inch....
http://www.teraflex.biz/jk-4-suspens...rm-system.html

 

Can't tell u anything yet im waiting for my 4in tf to arrive but good luck I don't think ull go wrong with either one

 

Ok here's the lessons learned on my multi attempts of slowly building my 2010 2 dr jeep rubicon
I installed first the 3 inch TeraFlex coil without any arms. Rode good with 35 MTRs but kinda sketchy at 65 mph or greater.
The next step was front lower control arms with 6-7 degrees castor and front adjustable trackbar.
With another proper alignment it rode and handled beautiful all speeds but had some rear driveshaft vibe when putting slight pressure on it on inclines or declines.
Then I purchased rear upper control arms to adjust driveline angle which my vibe went away.
Later on I thought I needed all 8 arms which opened a can of worms.
First off the 8 arm setup is a longer upper control arm setup than the two arm, I needed to repurchase different uppers when I decided to go with rear lower control arms
Then since they are longer they pushed my rear axle back to where my rear trackbar relocate bracket was running my lower bumpstop and my rear trackbar was rubbing my rear diff.
So I cut off my lower spring perches and install JKs adj perches.
I can go on about more but I guess what I'm getting at is If you wanna do 37's later on I'd do this
3 inch short arm with front Adj trackbar, Front adjustable lower control arms set at 6-7 degrees castor, rear Upper adjustable control arms to align rear driveshaft, good set of shocks with extended brake lines, cut pinch seams.
Later in you can put a set of Flatties and also run a 1 inch body lift to avoid longer driveshaft

 

what i can tell you from having installed both of these kits is that the 3" will sit over 4" and the 4" kit more like 5". the member moochie has a 4-door with the 3" kit and trimmed fenders easily clears very tall 37" toyo. needless to say, if you're only going to run 35's with a chance of running 37's in the future, the 3" kit is what i would go with. the biggest downside to the 3" kit is that it doesn't come with an adjustable front track bar nor does it come with a steering geometry correction system. if you go this route, i would highly recommend that you get an off road evolution draglink flip kit to go with it.

 

I have the 3" kit, Stock arms still, and chopped fenders and would easily clear 37's. In fact my 35's look small. I would for sure spring for the steering correct WOL mention to avoid any problems in the future. I would also get adjustable arms from the beginning to get rid of the flightiness on the road. It's bearable but it does get annoying.

 

I have the 3" with the 4 control arms(flex arms) with 35" tires and levelled front. I'm 4"+ as far as height gain. In fact I can't even chop my fenders(cause I like that look) or I'd have way too much of a gap.....,, 37's will be my next tire size. Go with the 3" and the 4 flex arms and upgraded track bar.

 

I'm also using the 3" kit with the adjustable front lowers. I opted for teraflex's awesome monster forged track bars front and rear. I'm currently at 62,000 miles(34,000 miles and a little over 2 years on the setup) with 35" kevlars. This kit has been great! Shocks seem a little harsh to me at times, but everything has held up great. I absolutely will be upgrading to 37's or 38's with flat fenders. These kevlars are wearing great and still have tons of tread otherwise I would already have a set of larger kevlars. My alignment specs: running 5° caster and have my toe set to 1/8" total toe in. I really want to get the evo high steer. Long term I'll also upgrade to a long arm setup.

 

Thanks all. Great input. I'm sold on the 3" and new adjustable track bar. Quick follow up question to make sure I'm following.


Does the Teraflex steering stabilizer do the same thing as the drag link flip WOL mentioned? Would I do one, the other, or both?

Regarding 4 vs 8 arms. If I did all 8 on day 1, would I run into any issues. Any real benefit to get all 8 instead of the 4?

Thanks again guys...

 

you do not need a new steering stablizer unless the one you have no longer works.

what i am recommending is a draglink flip and track bar relocation bracket to be installed. this is somthing completely different and, i would strongly recommend you get with the amount of lift you will have. again, i would recommend the one made by evo.

you would not run into any issues and the benefit of having them is that you can set your rear pinion angle, set the caster on your front axle, reposition your axles so that they sit where they should be at this height and, get more bind free flex.

 

I agree with WOL about the drag link flip kit and you will be fine with just the two front Lower Adj control arms and the Rear Upper adj control arms. If you you decide to go all 8 remember the rear upper and lowers are longer initially and possiblly rubbing issues with rear trackbar and rear diff cover and also possibly the rear trackbar drop bracket rubbing the lower bumpstop