I'm going to take it over to a trusted mechanic and have him put it up on the lift and look around for bent or improperly installed parts, check the brakes and bearings. we'll see. I'm to type A for this, it's killing me.

Redneck jeep, by pushing the button to turn it partially off would it alleviate my pulling problem (if that's what's causing it) or would I have to turn it fully off with the aforementioned procedure to relieve any esp induced brake drag?

thanks!

 

I would think it would have to be fully off, but I'm not 100% certain.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was just reading about this in the owner's manual the other day... but in 2wd, you can only turn the ESP "partially off" by using the dash button. Pushing and holding the button doesn't do anything for you. When in 4WD High, however, you can push and hold the ESP button and turn it "fully off", right? I think that's what I read in the manual. In fact, when in 4 Lo, the default setting is to cut the ESP fully off. The only thing that stays on is the brake lock diff lock feature. My

 

That sounds right, but the link I posted eariler shows how to cut it off permantely. No matter where the transfer case is.

 

It may be that the scrub radius is too far off. I know this has been a problem for dodge 2500 and 3500 trucks for many years. When lifted even a small ammount it can requre an offset ball-joint on right front upper. Some dodge trucks even came with a factory wheel spacer on one side only to correct a pull.(to the right, always) I dont know if there is one avalible for the jk but it fixes it on the fullsizes for sure.

 

If I go through the procedure to permanently turn off the esp. can I turn it back on later (my wife drives the jeep sometimes and needs all the help she can get)

 

I'd check the muffler bearings. They might need to repacked. If that didn't fix it, I would look at changing the thermosat out with one from a 68 VW Bug. Use one from a dual port enginge, not the single port - for better cooling performance.


Just kidding -- - This topic is getting too depressing for me. I'm curious to see what is causing this and how to fix it. We may have to call a priest to come and bless your Jeep to get the demons out it. I hope the problem comes to light quickly, sounds like you been thru enough already.

I'm curious, did you buy this JK new or used? If you bought it used, this can of worms could get pretty big. If its new, there would be a slimmer chance that the frame is damaged.

Thanks for keeping us posted. Kudios to everyone giving the input. Real good advice so far - except mine of course!

 

LOL. the first thing I changed was the blinker fluid!

Thanks for your sympathy. It's new with only 3k on it. I'll definately post up when/if I get it fixed.

 

so put it up on a lift, the sway bar links looked like they were angle towards the driver side and the right front bump stop looks like its nearly touching the front of the coil (the driver side coil is perfectly center).

The front axle was centered with an adjustable track bar measuring from the outside of the tire to the fender last time I posted. We measured today and there was a one inch differnce when measure from the frame to the inside of the wheel (more space drivers side) although the tires still look centered.

we detached the front track bar and the axle shifted over to the passanger side one inch. We lenghtned the track bar so it lined up with the new location of the axle side bracket and bolted it back on.the links are now straight up and down but the passanger tire is sticking way out (inch and half or so) compared to the driver which is flush with the fiender. The right front bump stop is still shifted towards the front of the coil.

I'm lost, something is obiously bent or bound up. what the hell could it be. Of course it still pulls to the right.

 

Did you do your measuring with the tires (all weight on the tires) on the ground? If you are doing it with it up in the air, then there is no way it will ever be correct.


The Jk must be setting at normal ride height, on level ground with the suspension supporting the full vehicle's weight.

Undo the track bar, you might have to raise the vehicle up a little to get the bolt out, if you do, then lower the vehicle for the rest of the steps.

Using a ratchet strap, attach to the side of the chassis that the tire is not out far enough.

Attach the other end of the strap to the axle house of the other side.

Tighten the ratchet until the measurements are both equal, that will be the center.

Adjust the track bar to fit, and reinstall the bolt, you should be able to get the bolt in without too much trouble.

This sounds like you unbolted the track bar in the air and the axle shifted and while it was still in the air, reset the track bar for that location?

Things will be in a bind, and not line up, until you get the axle centered. And until then it will pull to the right.

I hope I have helped.