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Teraflex or JKS quick disconnects for a Rubicon???

Old Dec 9, 2009 | 12:50 PM
  #11  
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So it sounds like with the JKS I can adjust them to a length that will prevent the sway bar from over extending when using the Rubi E-Disco plus I can completely take them off if the E-Disco were to malfunction (which happened once when the fuse for the control switch went out). I'm just curious as if any part of the sway bar will hit my tires when the the JKS links are fully disconnected.

Nothing will touch.

David
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 01:30 PM
  #12  
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TF makes good gear but in this case go JKS.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by pkess3
Ok before you say, "Why do you need quick disco's when you have the electronic sway bar disconnect?" let me show you why I'm considering quick discos:



The sway bar link that is bent in the picture is the teraflex sway bar link that I believe is made for a 3-6" lift. It measures 10 inches in length from eye to eye. The swaybar and link somehow got over extended and caused the link to bend and break. Needless to say I was uneasy driving it home 60 miles on the interstate with only half a sway bar.

So now I'm considering either the teraflex or JKS quick discos which are both showcased in the writeups section of this site. I've noticed that the teraflex one's pin up to the frame yet people still seem to be rubbing and bending their cotter pins at extreme flex and turning. With the JKS one's I'm wondering what happens with the sway bar as the links are completely taken off? Does the remaining sway bar stay in the same position as when it is connected? Does anyone else have a Rubicon and use the JKS quick discos??
Im thinking of going this route given I just taco'd another sway link.
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #14  
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So, I have JKS for 6000km and my upper bushings are terrible. Is this a common problem with this low milleage?

Thx
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Old May 2, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by ssunde1
I got the TF, plan on switching to the JKS. Thats what I wanted in the first place but was sold on the TF cause they have a place to connect to when disconnected, but when in the disconnected position, i hit them during articulation when the wheel is turned a little. guess i could adjust the steer stops or something, but i dont want to lose any of my turning radius. Also, when i grease them, grease doesnt get distibuted over the bushing anywhere other than at the very end nearest the zirk fitting, and just squishes out the side at the top.
I dont think the sway bar will go anywhere when pushed up even though its not attatched to anything, the bushings in the mouthing brackets hold it pretty snug. BUt like somone already said, not sure how it is with the rubi, but i imagine when the swaybar is locked in place, its probably the same. so I/m gettin the JKS, not bashing TF, just like the design of the JKS better.
I had the same problem with the grease just coming out both sides of the rubber bushing close to the zirk, I just put a bit more grease and spun the rubber bushing and got the grease in all areas. Then cleaned off the extra grease that got all over and I was ready to go.

Anyone just push the sway bar up like ssunde1 and not leave it level and secure it with something as the instructions said to do?
Anyone with picture? Pictures are better than words.

Thanks

Last edited by 4DFUN; May 2, 2012 at 09:46 AM.
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