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THINGS TO KNOW WHEN GETTING 35s

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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 06:12 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
You will have 3.21 or 3.73 and if you drive thru any kind of hills you will not be happy with the performance even with the 3.6 motor running 35" tires.
Why would I have one o
Why would I have one or the other, there is not one answer for the 14 Sport model? What do I want after 35's go on?
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 06:42 PM
  #32  
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3.21 are standard gears with 3.73 being offered in some packages such as a tow package. 4.56 seems to be the sweet spot for 35's and the 3.6
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by genrec
Why would I have one or the other, there is not one answer for the 14 Sport model? What do I want after 35's go on?
There has always been an option for gearing. 3.21 or 3.73 for non-rubicons, but, some early non-rubicons had the option of 4.10. All older rubicons were 4.10, but with the newest years, there is the option of 3.73 or 4.10.

Your window sticker will list what the gears are. If you don't have it, you can find an email address on the jeep website, Customers area. Enter your VIN and ask for a build sheet. If you don't want to do that, lift a corner, spin a tire and count driveshaft revolutions.

Whether or not 'you' want to regear will depend on which gears you have, and 'your' opinion of the power with 35's. Some with a 3.6 are ok with 3.73's, some are ok with 4.10's, some move up to 4.56 or even 4.88. There are plenty of threads talking about gearing, so don't make you decision based on a few replies in one thread, see what you think of the performance and do more research.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 07:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
There has always been an option for gearing. 3.21 or 3.73 for non-rubicons, but, some early non-rubicons had the option of 4.10. All older rubicons were 4.10, but with the newest years, there is the option of 3.73 or 4.10.

Your window sticker will list what the gears are. If you don't have it, you can find an email address on the jeep website, Customers area. Enter your VIN and ask for a build sheet. If you don't want to do that, lift a corner, spin a tire and count driveshaft revolutions.

Whether or not 'you' want to regear will depend on which gears you have, and 'your' opinion of the power with 35's. Some with a 3.6 are ok with 3.73's, some are ok with 4.10's, some move up to 4.56 or even 4.88. There are plenty of threads talking about gearing, so don't make you decision based on a few replies in one thread, see what you think of the performance and do more research.
I just looked, my window sticker is 3.21..im sorry not sure what this means..is this/or does this mean these are weaker gears, am I kind of lagging with these..are the helping me currently to get the 21+ mpg Im getting..is 3.21 the worst or weakest ever or of all..argggh.being an newb.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #35  
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Weaker isn't the right word. You might think of it as what you want your rpm's to be at certain speeds, or how much power you need to keep you at those speeds. (higher rpm = more HP/Torque). This is influenced by the tire size you move up to, how heavy your jeep has become, where you live, how you drive, your personal opinion, etc, etc. People at higher altitudes or who drive lots of hills might like higher rpm's, and people at sea level on board flat roads might get away with lower rpm's. Just depends on the variables.

Earlier in the thread, the FAQ's were mentioned. If you scroll down to the drivetrain section, you will find some great charts that are broken down by engine/transmission. Just plug some numbers in and see what you come up with. use measured tire heights, not mfg spec.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Weaker isn't the right word. You might think of it as what you want your rpm's to be at certain speeds, or how much power you need to keep you at those speeds. (higher rpm = more HP/Torque). This is influenced by the tire size you move up to, how heavy your jeep has become, where you live, how you drive, your personal opinion, etc, etc. People at higher altitudes or who drive lots of hills might like higher rpm's, and people at sea level on board flat roads might get away with lower rpm's. Just depends on the variables.

Earlier in the thread, the FAQ's were mentioned. If you scroll down to the drivetrain section, you will find some great charts that are broken down by engine/transmission. Just plug some numbers in and see what you come up with. use measured tire heights, not mfg spec.
Thanks for the response!
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by djlarroc
I found them on Ebay. Drivetrain parts las vegas.

I went with their house brand, and my installer said they set up perfect right from the start.
Nice thanks.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 10:13 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by KVJK08
I love the look ! Haha. More of a reason I want 35s. How much did the process of getting 35s cost you?
lift, tires & wheels was about $3,900 I did the entire install myself.

5 wheels & tires $2350
Lift components $1550
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 09:03 AM
  #39  
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From all the posts, I'm assuming I should have a budget of at least $4500. I'll take it into consideration to see if I will be able to save that much and put on 35s! Thanks
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:15 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by KVJK08
From all the posts, I'm assuming I should have a budget of at least $4500. I'll take it into consideration to see if I will be able to save that much and put on 35s! Thanks

Wow, you really don't need that much.

Here's how mine went:

$550 2.5" Teraflex coil kit with shocks, 3/4" spacers, and AEV control arm brackets & RE adjustable track bar (not necessary). Slightly used.
$1000 Gears.
$1250 5 - 35 tires (new).
$150 wheel spacers (this will depend on what you want).


So just under $3000.
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