Thinking about drilling my hardtop, need advice
#11
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I did something similar to what you want to do, I think.
I used 80/20 extruded aluminum channel. I built roof racks that slide into the channels for carrying kayaks. I drilled holes in the hardtop with a step drill (unibit). It kept the hole pretty clean and minimized the fiberglass mess. I have seen how a lot of the yakima channels were mounted on top of the strengthening rib in the hardtop. I decided to mount my channel next to the rib because my bolt holes would end up in the center of the lip of extra fiberglass inside. I figured two layers would be a bit stronger. I used one regular washer and one fender washer on the inside. I have intentions of removing the fender washer and run a piece of 3/4" wide metal along the inside for distribution of the stresses. Between the rail and hardtop I used the sealing tape for truck toppers. It was the perfect width and keeps dirt and water from getting in between the two. I used teflon tape on the stainless bolt threads to seal it and also keep the disimilar metals from reacting. I want to do the same as you are planning with eyebolts for hoisting the top up. Just haven't got around to it. I have hauled plywood or two kayaks without issue. No leaks at all. I can give you more details or measurements if you are interested. As far as drilling the hardtop I was extremely nervous. Just plan everything out and measure multiple times beforehand. I figured if I remove the rails someday, I can install bolts to seal the holes.
I used 80/20 extruded aluminum channel. I built roof racks that slide into the channels for carrying kayaks. I drilled holes in the hardtop with a step drill (unibit). It kept the hole pretty clean and minimized the fiberglass mess. I have seen how a lot of the yakima channels were mounted on top of the strengthening rib in the hardtop. I decided to mount my channel next to the rib because my bolt holes would end up in the center of the lip of extra fiberglass inside. I figured two layers would be a bit stronger. I used one regular washer and one fender washer on the inside. I have intentions of removing the fender washer and run a piece of 3/4" wide metal along the inside for distribution of the stresses. Between the rail and hardtop I used the sealing tape for truck toppers. It was the perfect width and keeps dirt and water from getting in between the two. I used teflon tape on the stainless bolt threads to seal it and also keep the disimilar metals from reacting. I want to do the same as you are planning with eyebolts for hoisting the top up. Just haven't got around to it. I have hauled plywood or two kayaks without issue. No leaks at all. I can give you more details or measurements if you are interested. As far as drilling the hardtop I was extremely nervous. Just plan everything out and measure multiple times beforehand. I figured if I remove the rails someday, I can install bolts to seal the holes.
#13
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Jeepin: awesome job. I can't seem to find the channel you used on line. Where did you buy it? I like the idea of an adjustable channel. Thanks for the advice!
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Originally Posted by mack78
Jeepin: awesome job. I can't seem to find the channel you used on line. Where did you buy it? I like the idea of an adjustable channel. Thanks for the advice!
Have you looked at the Thule system? It also uses aluminum rails and has tons of accessories for different types of cargo.
Yakima also makes one but they recently changed the way it attaches to the rooftop and everyone said to not use it.
#15
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I think it is ok to do links for this...
http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-4.asp
http://www.8020.net/1575-Pop-Up.htm
I work at a shop where we build machinery and occasionally use this stuff. I bought it from our supplier. Check there website for the distributors in your area if you want to buy it.
It comes with a clear anodize finish but I sent it out with some of our other aluminum to get anodized in black. Came out pretty good and won't rust. I would still like to design up some angled end caps to make it a little more clean look.
http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-4.asp
http://www.8020.net/1575-Pop-Up.htm
I work at a shop where we build machinery and occasionally use this stuff. I bought it from our supplier. Check there website for the distributors in your area if you want to buy it.
It comes with a clear anodize finish but I sent it out with some of our other aluminum to get anodized in black. Came out pretty good and won't rust. I would still like to design up some angled end caps to make it a little more clean look.
#16
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Last edited by JeepinJer; 02-05-2012 at 06:54 AM.
#17
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Originally Posted by JeepinJer
I did look at all those and have owned Yakima products for many years. They tend to not last as long as my vehicles so I wanted to build my own for my JK. I used anodized aluminum and stainless everywhere. Plus the cost of those systems is high. I work in a machine shop so I was able to buy the hardware and aluminum to build the entire rack system for my wifes 2 door and my 4 door for around $200.
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=274155"/>
Yup. Cannot beat that! :-)
In my case, I need to resource to kits. Between work and family the only time I have for my Jeep is driving it and/or installing the mods myself. If I have to fabricate them there would be less time to enjoying the rides.
I like that store you posted. There are some very cool stuff there and I am having some ideas. Just not sure when I'd be able to implement them. :-(
#18
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Going to check out the Thule, but avoid the Yakima. Thanks for the heads up!
Cheers!
#19
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I think it is ok to do links for this...
http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-4.asp
http://www.8020.net/1575-Pop-Up.htm
I work at a shop where we build machinery and occasionally use this stuff. I bought it from our supplier. Check there website for the distributors in your area if you want to buy it.
It comes with a clear anodize finish but I sent it out with some of our other aluminum to get anodized in black. Came out pretty good and won't rust. I would still like to design up some angled end caps to make it a little more clean look.
http://www.8020.net/T-Slot-4.asp
http://www.8020.net/1575-Pop-Up.htm
I work at a shop where we build machinery and occasionally use this stuff. I bought it from our supplier. Check there website for the distributors in your area if you want to buy it.
It comes with a clear anodize finish but I sent it out with some of our other aluminum to get anodized in black. Came out pretty good and won't rust. I would still like to design up some angled end caps to make it a little more clean look.
#20
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I did look at all those and have owned Yakima products for many years. They tend to not last as long as my vehicles so I wanted to build my own for my JK. I used anodized aluminum and stainless everywhere. Plus the cost of those systems is high. I work in a machine shop so I was able to buy the hardware and aluminum to build the entire rack system for my wifes 2 door and my 4 door for around $200.
Attachment 274155
Attachment 274155
Jeepin you are the man? I have been thinking about doing what you did for a few months now. There are just so many things you can add to the extrusions. question:
1 when you screwed the extrusion down to the top did the extrusion bend or did the top?
2. when the extrusions were in place and you went to put the cross bar on did your riser account for any angle that might be on the topper?
3. are you happy with the 2 screw hold. i noticed the yakima has around 5 or so.
Thanks for any input