JeepinJer

1 when you screwed the extrusion down to the top did the extrusion bend or did the top? The extrusion flexed enough to conform to the curve in the top. Just don't go too close to the rear where it starts to curve more. I can measure and give the dimensions if you are interested.

2. when the extrusions were in place and you went to put the cross bar on did your riser account for any angle that might be on the topper? Yes they do. I machined the risers to take up that angle and not stress the hardtop.


3. are you happy with the 2 screw hold. i noticed the yakima has around 5 or so. I used five in the extrusion also. Two at the front about 2-3 inches apart and then three more about 12-18 inches apart. It varies according to the cross rib on the inside of the hardtop. I drilled and tapped the extrusion for 5/16-18 bolts and used a fender washer and regular washer on the inside of the hardtop. One thing on my list is to replace the fender washer with a strip of 3/4" wide aluminum or stainless to further spread the stresses in the fiberglass.




I have had this setup for almost two years and so far so good. No cracks. The heaviest items we carry are two kayaks (55lbs each). I don't and wouldn't do any serious offroading this way for fear of cracking the hardtop. I want to build a block that would fit between the hardtop/rail and the roll bar to strengthen the whole setup.

shredd_guy

Nice set up and great information thank you. I was thinking about using the 1x1 inch extrusions till i the one up there and saw the bow in the to surface. now i thinking i might make a few spacers to account for it or run the same stuff you did. I was also thinking that i would try and run the .5 x 1 exrtrusion on the inside of the topper so i could attach stuff to it, but i have not actually looked at it too closely. I will be sure to post the results if i get enough courage to drill holes in her.....i wish i had a solid model of the top.