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Thinking of selling RIP Supercharger...

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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 09:11 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Vega
This is the problem I have been thinking about as well with a S/C kit. Most of my normal driving and off-roading is in the 1.5k to 2.5k rpm range. With this low of an RPM I don't think S/C kits, no matter the type do all that much. I don't know about you, but I don't go screaming around in my Jeep in the 4k to 6k rpm range where S/C's pull these big HP/Torque numbers.
This is wrong about SC's, a roots/twin screw type blower will build power almost instantaneously and carries it all the way to redline on any vehicle. Only the centrifuguals take time to build power/boost. You are right about a centri not being a trail friendly blower, as we are usually going slow. The Centri's would be good for mud bogging or the dunes though..

Both blowers are great, but the power band is completely different. I have driven both types in Mustangs/Lightnings/Cobra's. I have the roots blower on my Cobra's, and I can assure you the power is instantaneous. I almost get full boost even at 1000 rpms for tire shredding HP.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 09:24 AM
  #22  
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Yet again, call them about getting a smaller pulley, you do not have to go down much in size to get what you are looking for just a few millimeters should get you where you want to be. And If the masses just say stomp on it to get the power out of it, whell my thought is why in the hell buy the kit in the first place because you, Me and all the others are having to stomp the hell out of it stock to get it to move. You will not need new injectors unless you get a real small pulley nor will you have to have it tuned and reprogramed, the ecu will relearn everything in 100 miles or so. And yes more boost pressure can prematurely wear out engine internals, but you should have expected that when you gave them your credit card #. Now the real problem is not the hp out of the boosted engine it is the boost. That is why you MUST get the most free flowing exhaust you can, all these guys your hear about getting a hard on over they have more boost pressure than another guy, piss on all that, I want to know how much CFM your moving and that is all I want to hear. The engine is a air pump, air in, used air out, get it in and out faster with less restriction (BOOST PSI) the more power you will get. As for the smaller pulley, If I am to do a kit myself again one day I will have more than one pulley configuration, the one that came with it will now be a paper weight, one a few mm's smaller for daily use as well as mud and sand, then a smaller on for rock crawling. All the guys that say rev it up must have automatics or they do not mind replacing clutches. I am new to the Jeep 4x4 thing and have not done any crawling but I have enough common sense that I don't want to be trying to get up something feathering the clutch at 4500 rpm to spin a 5k charger kit for the power I wanted at lower rpms, then my foot slips off the clutch and I go skipping across the rocks or over backwards. I wold look around on some other performance pages for the first mods to a supercharger are, first will always be a smaller pulley. I have had moddified superchargers on all of my previous vehicles and dogged the hell out of them daily and the only thing I ever had a problem with were motor mounts. All stock engines. Before shit canning the thousands you have invested try this route, not that much money and see how you like it.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #23  
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Ok, I just got off the phone with Ross at Ripp chargers. Very smart, very informative. He stated that you can put a smaller pulley on, heres the but and it makes sense, in all of their testing it was the tranny slippage that made the charger feel like it was not pulling as hard as it should, he also stated that there was a signifigant change after the Hypertech programmer was used because it changed the tranny settings to be more aggresive against the slippage. I wonder if you turned off the esp(hold the button) how much diff that would make? So if you can turn the esp off or get a hypertech and try that. He also stated that the spool rate with load is very good and should come up quickly without having to spin the heck out of it. He was a tech not a sales guy. Maybe give him a shout and tell him your lack of satisfaction in the charger and see what advise he can offer. I wouldn't mind getting a charger kit but that would shoot the hell out of my lifetime powertrain warranty before they got the hood all the way up...
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 10:53 AM
  #24  
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I haven't messed around with horsepower for quite a while, but if I recall shouldn't you match a blower with a cam to open the valves earlier and shouldn't the lift be higher too? You can only cram so much air into your cylinders with stock lift and duration. A blower by itself can't do much because with the stock lift there's not a lot of room to force more air past the stock (inefficient) valves and with the stock duration there's not much time to force more air into the cylinder. The proper cam completely changes everything and brings the blower to life because with higher lift and longer duration you can now cram much much more air in the cylinders for maximum volumetric efficiency. There's no such thing as a bolt on blower if you're looking for more power. A blower is supposed to be matched with the proper cam.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 10:53 AM
  #25  
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with my RIPP sc I had the ESP on a kill switch and my Jeep went into limp mode everytime I gased it....I also had the "smaller" pulley and 2200 miles on it.....It's like trying squeezing blood out of a rock
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 11:03 AM
  #26  
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Beware of going too small of a pulley, and getting the higher boost, as said the engine needs reporgramming every time you change the pulley, so the programmer (Hypertech for example) is imperative. Our 3.8's internals are NOT built for high boost applications as most OEM motors. Anything pushing over 10lbs of boost is getting dangerous, even when properly tuned. I would just get a conservative dyno tune not pushing the "timing" or fuel limit capacity and leave it. You have to find out what the OEM fuel pump max flow rate is, plus injectors in order to feed that motor when going to high boost.

To change pullies all the time for a few extra ponies is not worth the chance of damaging the motor by changing the program each time. This is a Jeep , not a race car, if anyone wants to push their motor to the limits, be my guest, but I would say, screw the blower and spend the money on a Hemi cause when you push the motor to failure, you would have been better off buying the Hemi, than the repair bill or replacing the 3.8 and spending the money on that Blower kit.

N8Kern already has the intake and exhaust, the only other thing he could add is a good set of headers.

A cam is only good with a blower if you are running high boost, and I'm talking over 18lbs++ here. To spend the money on a cam is not worth it in most applications. If you do a cam, you may as well just build up the entire motor with forged internals to handle the high boost you would want to run, but the cost is not worth it in a jeep. A guy could just get the smaller 5.7 Hemi in factory form and still be better off without the worry of pushing the motor. But hey, whatever floats your boat....

Last edited by 07rubisteve; Dec 18, 2008 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 11:07 AM
  #27  
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Intake, exhaust and a cam. You must have a cam.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 11:09 AM
  #28  
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Yes on the cam, for the amount of air this is pushing in it should not be a issue until you get into a much smaller pulley pushing alot more air and a cam would wake it up alot. As for the limp jeep. LOL I wonder how much of a difference the hypertech would make? Might be worth a phone call to them tomorrow to see if they have played with this issue.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 11:26 AM
  #29  
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And the way I see it is this: if one's going to get a blower, which requires a new intake, exhaust and cam, while you're at you might as well do these simple things since you're on the quest for more power via a blower:
- get lighter and more efficient valves
- polish the exhaust ports (not the intake- not with fuel injectors)
- get larger fuel injectors
- windage tray
- and of course all this makes no sense w/o regearing. Gears have an enormous impact on torque output at the rear wheels.

You do these things and you're blower will come to life so much you'll have permabone for at least a month. Expect 40% increase.

and if you're applying lots of boost
- better crank shaft
- better rods
- better oil pump
- studded main

* I'd rather just get the diesel engine. That's my dream engine. All the torque you need for 30 mpg's.

The bottom line is that you can't just bolt on a blower and expect results. You have to tune tune tune and completely change your engine and driveline if you're expecting the blower to work that magic that you were expecting, which it certainly can! In highschool it was all about the 5.0's and man you throw a blower on there stock, and it's okay kinda like adding a 4 barrel and some okay heads and headers etc. You add the above listed and the blower comes to life so much you feel like you're driving a fighter jet it's so f$cking fast.

Last edited by spartan99; Dec 18, 2008 at 11:32 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 11:49 AM
  #30  
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If you're looking for over 350-400hp, you need to start thinking about cams and new lifters, etc. For the type of S/C that it is, you are not going to see power down low. As was said, by me too, roots and twin screws truely make power at near idle. And they are safer too. This kit kind of seems like it was made for people running large tires who want their highway performance back. Nothing more to me. It just isn't useful on a trail.
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