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Those with interior Line-x, what did it cost?

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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #11  
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the color matching looks really really nice.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 06:17 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mattdaddy1974
I had my 2011 JKU done with LINEX back in December. I did all the removing of my interior and sound deadening myself. They charged $700 with the LINEX Xtra which is uv protection. I am extremely pleased with the end result. That being said if they asked for $1500 I would have tried one of the DIY kits. I wonder why they are charging more than double in your area and maybe you should ask. As far as letting it cure before putting it back together. It cures in about 7 seconds. That's the whole benefit to using it versus a DIY kit. The place I used was in Bradenton Florida.


Where in Bradenton, what was the name of the shop. I haven't been able to get a price that good.
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 04:10 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by oletennessean
i paid around 1500 for my color matching sahara tan linex. but i gutted it and removed the sound dampener goo. in my opinion it was worth every penny, turned out great
I was wondering, after you got the work done and began reinstalling the seats, were you able to hide all the wiring fairly well or did you need to do any modifications to that as well? If you have any additional pics I'd love to see them. I would like to go the Rhino/Line-X route, as long as I can get most of the interior back to looking close to stock.
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 04:27 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Thee_Vance
I was wondering, after you got the work done and began reinstalling the seats, were you able to hide all the wiring fairly well or did you need to do any modifications to that as well? If you have any additional pics I'd love to see them. I would like to go the Rhino/Line-X route, as long as I can get most of the interior back to looking close to stock.
You can get the wiring to look nice with some effort. I got some nice weaved wiring loom to wrap around the wires. I think you have a 2dr, so not sure how those wires run between the front and rear seat. On the 4dr they snake in just a bit and attach to a peg towards the front of the rear wheel well under the rear seat. I cut that peg off and ground it down, applying liner right over that. I then ran the wiring, covered by the nice loom, under the rear door lip, right up behind the rear door latch, and then under my tub rail. I have a buddy that left his wiring as/is and it looks a lot sloppier. Mine you barely notice while his is right there plain as day. My point being is that you can make it look nice with some effort. I'd suspect it would be similar with a 2dr. One thing you can't do anything about is the gaps around the plastic molding that used to be filled up with carpet.

For anyone thinking about bedlining with any product is to look at and at least consider BedRug. It's a great product. I much prefer it to my lined tub.
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 12:03 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Thee_Vance
I was wondering, after you got the work done and began reinstalling the seats, were you able to hide all the wiring fairly well or did you need to do any modifications to that as well? If you have any additional pics I'd love to see them. I would like to go the Rhino/Line-X route, as long as I can get most of the interior back to looking close to stock.
I've gone to great lengths to neaten up my wiring. I don't think there's any visible with the exception of the sound bar harness. I rerouted the wiring to the rear through the insulation in the fenders so there's nothing inside the tub from the B-pillar back. The hard top and sub wiring just poke out of the wiring holes at the rear. Some assorted photos:

Rear wiper and defroster wiring


Running cables inside the fenders


Opened up this hole at the B-pillar to pass wiring through into the fender. Sanded it very smooth and wrapped the wiring heavily


Clean (of exposed wiring)




The little green wire is for the spare tire Christmas wreath lights. I haven't run it with the rest because of laziness.
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