Thoughts/Ideas going forward
07-11-2017, 12:47 PM
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thoughts/Ideas going forward
Looking for opinions/thoughts/ideas on moving forward with mods to my rig in regards to axle, gearing, tire size, etc.
My rig is my daily driver and sees mostly pavement time. Mostly day to day in town driving and a few road trips from time to time. However, I would like to get it where it's good for that but can handle some decent off-roading as well. Terrain around here is mostly rolling hills, muddy trails with ruts, however, we do have an off-road park about 2hrs away that offers some rocks.
I had been looking a Dynatrac Unlimited Prorock 44 and going to 37s (mainly just a "want to"). However, when I get honest with myself and really look at what my main use is and will be, I don't think I can justify quite that much cost. I could just re-gear to 4:56 and do some other mods to improve drive-ability and most likely be totally fine for my uses. For example, installing high steer with raised trac bar bracket to get geometry all good.
Here is some info:
A little info on what I am currently running.
- 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with D30 front and 3:73 gears and factory limited slip rear differential
- 3.5 Rock Krawler Max Travel Kit with JRi shocks. Includes front lower control arms and rear lower and upper control arms along with rear track bar bracket.
- Synergy front track bar with their sector shaft brace kit
- Synergy steer stabilizer relocation kit (bracket that goes over factory axle side track bar bracket along with clamp on tie rod). Allows steering stabilizer to be up higher.
- Currently running Goodyear Duratrac 315/70R17.
- Rig is on the heavy side with front/rear bumpers, winch, rock rails, skids.
Thanks and I would really appreciate your input.
My rig is my daily driver and sees mostly pavement time. Mostly day to day in town driving and a few road trips from time to time. However, I would like to get it where it's good for that but can handle some decent off-roading as well. Terrain around here is mostly rolling hills, muddy trails with ruts, however, we do have an off-road park about 2hrs away that offers some rocks.
I had been looking a Dynatrac Unlimited Prorock 44 and going to 37s (mainly just a "want to"). However, when I get honest with myself and really look at what my main use is and will be, I don't think I can justify quite that much cost. I could just re-gear to 4:56 and do some other mods to improve drive-ability and most likely be totally fine for my uses. For example, installing high steer with raised trac bar bracket to get geometry all good.
Here is some info:
A little info on what I am currently running.
- 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with D30 front and 3:73 gears and factory limited slip rear differential
- 3.5 Rock Krawler Max Travel Kit with JRi shocks. Includes front lower control arms and rear lower and upper control arms along with rear track bar bracket.
- Synergy front track bar with their sector shaft brace kit
- Synergy steer stabilizer relocation kit (bracket that goes over factory axle side track bar bracket along with clamp on tie rod). Allows steering stabilizer to be up higher.
- Currently running Goodyear Duratrac 315/70R17.
- Rig is on the heavy side with front/rear bumpers, winch, rock rails, skids.
Thanks and I would really appreciate your input.
07-11-2017, 01:11 PM
#2
Super Moderator
If it's a true DD then upgrading your tie rod/ drag link combo can tighten things up for you as well as making it more trailworthy.
Buy some used 37's for trail days and continue with your 35's for daily. I'm at the same point of "most everything is done, now what?" and that's my plan- spare set of wheels and keep replacing the factory components. I recently rebuilt the rear ds with the Teraflex rzeppa on both ends so it's just as reliable without going through the games of pinion angle.
Mark Dorion will suggest to take it out and play with it. It's the best way to put money into the jeep while getting something out of it. I tend to agree. I've got friends with well-built jeeps that don't get used.
Buy some used 37's for trail days and continue with your 35's for daily. I'm at the same point of "most everything is done, now what?" and that's my plan- spare set of wheels and keep replacing the factory components. I recently rebuilt the rear ds with the Teraflex rzeppa on both ends so it's just as reliable without going through the games of pinion angle.
Mark Dorion will suggest to take it out and play with it. It's the best way to put money into the jeep while getting something out of it. I tend to agree. I've got friends with well-built jeeps that don't get used.
07-11-2017, 01:12 PM
#3
JK Enthusiast
Honestly just get some decent off-road tires and you're already set to go. Yes a d44 up front would greatly improve the reliability of your ride, but there are only extreme cases where going to 37s will gain you more. Duratracs have notoriously weak side walls (I have personally seen around 7 of them fail just on the sidewall).
Honestly a stock JK will off-road what you described and in most cases do it without even body damage. My stock rubicon JK could make it over most every obstacle a JKU on 35s was doing.
If you're doing a regear, a locker of some sort will also greatly improve your off-road capability more than anything else on your list.
Honestly a stock JK will off-road what you described and in most cases do it without even body damage. My stock rubicon JK could make it over most every obstacle a JKU on 35s was doing.
If you're doing a regear, a locker of some sort will also greatly improve your off-road capability more than anything else on your list.
07-11-2017, 01:34 PM
#4
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
My "wants" want to go to a PR44 with 4:88 and 37s. However, my "be reasonable" says I could put 4:56s in my stock axles with a Trutrac up front, move to tougher (maybe slightly taller) 35, flip the drag link with raised trac bar and call it good. I say Trutrac due to most of offroading around here involved slick mud instead of rocks (at least from my understanding of lockers).
I'm sure this would do everything plus some of my typical driving and terrain around here. Be more than capable and tighten up the front end too.
In this scenario, would you go with a Yeti no drill top mount or upgrade the knuckles which could move over if I ever changed the front axle in the future?
I'm sure this would do everything plus some of my typical driving and terrain around here. Be more than capable and tighten up the front end too.
In this scenario, would you go with a Yeti no drill top mount or upgrade the knuckles which could move over if I ever changed the front axle in the future?
07-11-2017, 01:45 PM
#5
JK Jedi
PR44 is a lot of money for most people to swallow. I'd say the killer here is wanting to move to 37s, and that is cuz it really is going to require a regear. I'd bet you MIGHT last a year on 37s and 3.73 before you were just beat down. The problem is that then you talk yourself in to a $1500 regear. Then you get in to the locker debate since you're half way down that road and before you know it, you've put more in to that D30 than you should have. I can't imagine wheelin without lockers, but we all do different things. Considering what you described, and assuming you're hell bent on going 37s, I'd regear to 4.56 and go have fun. You'll be capable of doing quite a bit and have fun doing it. Should you get to the point you ever think you need lockers, then talk yourself in to a PR44 upgrade at that time. You'd only be out ~$750 thrown away on regearing the front, and it won't be the end of the world. I wouldn't lock a D30 myself, and I won't throw more money in to the axle than necessary.
07-11-2017, 02:07 PM
#6
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
You're in a great location with Hot Springs Off Road park 2 hours to the east, and Barnwell Mountain (Gilmer, TX) 1 hour to the west!
I agree with upgrading the rest of your steering....tie rod at the very least.
PR44 is a lot of money for most people to swallow. I'd say the killer here is wanting to move to 37s, and that is cuz it really is going to require a regear. I'd bet you MIGHT last a year on 37s and 3.73 before you were just beat down. The problem is that then you talk yourself in to a $1500 regear. Then you get in to the locker debate since you're half way down that road and before you know it, you've put more in to that D30 than you should have. I can't imagine wheelin without lockers, but we all do different things. Considering what you described, and assuming you're hell bent on going 37s, I'd regear to 4.56 and go have fun. You'll be capable of doing quite a bit and have fun doing it. Should you get to the point you ever think you need lockers, then talk yourself in to a PR44 upgrade at that time. You'd only be out ~$750 thrown away on regearing the front, and it won't be the end of the world. I wouldn't lock a D30 myself, and I won't throw more money in to the axle than necessary.
I agree with upgrading the rest of your steering....tie rod at the very least.
PR44 is a lot of money for most people to swallow. I'd say the killer here is wanting to move to 37s, and that is cuz it really is going to require a regear. I'd bet you MIGHT last a year on 37s and 3.73 before you were just beat down. The problem is that then you talk yourself in to a $1500 regear. Then you get in to the locker debate since you're half way down that road and before you know it, you've put more in to that D30 than you should have. I can't imagine wheelin without lockers, but we all do different things. Considering what you described, and assuming you're hell bent on going 37s, I'd regear to 4.56 and go have fun. You'll be capable of doing quite a bit and have fun doing it. Should you get to the point you ever think you need lockers, then talk yourself in to a PR44 upgrade at that time. You'd only be out ~$750 thrown away on regearing the front, and it won't be the end of the world. I wouldn't lock a D30 myself, and I won't throw more money in to the axle than necessary.
If I upgrade/flip the drag link with raising trac bar, upgrade the knuckles to accept the drag link flip, and re-gear, I'd be good. If at a later date I upgrade to a PR44, I can re-use everything and only be out the front gearing.
07-11-2017, 02:38 PM
#7
JK Jedi
Yea, I'm not hell bent on going 37s. Just think I would like it, but definitely not necessary. Honestly, I am probably fine with 35s given my typical use and driving. If I stay with 35s though, I would want something a little tougher and taller then the Duratracs (I know it wouldn't be much difference in height).
If I upgrade/flip the drag link with raising trac bar, upgrade the knuckles to accept the drag link flip, and re-gear, I'd be good. If at a later date I upgrade to a PR44, I can re-use everything and only be out the front gearing.
If I upgrade/flip the drag link with raising trac bar, upgrade the knuckles to accept the drag link flip, and re-gear, I'd be good. If at a later date I upgrade to a PR44, I can re-use everything and only be out the front gearing.
It's just easy to get sucked in to putting too much in to a D30....little here, little there, before you know it it's half built and you're far down the path. But, at the same time, thing isn't gonna snap like a toothpick doing what you describe. At least that's my opinion.
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07-11-2017, 04:44 PM
#8
JK Jedi Master
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If you decide on truetracs, no need to second guess yourself on it. These things are great all-around traction devices, even on the occasional rock...
07-12-2017, 06:02 AM
#9
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
You don't HAVE to upgrade the knuckles to accomodate a DL flip, unless you're just wanting to upgrade them anyhow. You can drill the current knuckle with a step bit from the top, or you can go with a no-drill option like the steersmart that just replaces the one end from the turnbuckle to the knuckle. I think 35s with 3.73s or 4.10s is at least bearable. You really cross that threshold when you move to 37s. I will say 37s are nice, but not necessarily the end all be all. When I was seeing things my buddies were getting over and I wasn't on 35s, that was when I pulled the trigger. That said, that issue is always gonna be there. For example, now get stuck on something with 37s....like Bailey's Boulder in Hot Springs....where I'm sure 40's gets it done.
It's just easy to get sucked in to putting too much in to a D30....little here, little there, before you know it it's half built and you're far down the path. But, at the same time, thing isn't gonna snap like a toothpick doing what you describe. At least that's my opinion.
It's just easy to get sucked in to putting too much in to a D30....little here, little there, before you know it it's half built and you're far down the path. But, at the same time, thing isn't gonna snap like a toothpick doing what you describe. At least that's my opinion.
If I am being totally honest with myself, due to my work, family life, etc., etc., my off-roading time is basically non existant. That's why, although I want to go with a PR44, I think it may be more reasonable to stick to 35s and just re-gear to 4:56 and tighten up the front end (DL flip, etc.). I think it would still be a very capable rig.
07-12-2017, 06:47 AM
#10
JK Jedi
Yea, I know I don't have to upgrade the knuckles, just thought I could do that with the DL flip and still be able to re-use them if I upgrade front axles later.
If I am being totally honest with myself, due to my work, family life, etc., etc., my off-roading time is basically non existant. That's why, although I want to go with a PR44, I think it may be more reasonable to stick to 35s and just re-gear to 4:56 and tighten up the front end (DL flip, etc.). I think it would still be a very capable rig.
If I am being totally honest with myself, due to my work, family life, etc., etc., my off-roading time is basically non existant. That's why, although I want to go with a PR44, I think it may be more reasonable to stick to 35s and just re-gear to 4:56 and tighten up the front end (DL flip, etc.). I think it would still be a very capable rig.