Making sure I have all the right tools... It it completely necessary to have a 7mm allen wrench to take the nuts off? Also, even though I have a tie rod puller, will I need a pickle fork for the drag link end at the pitman arm? I haven't looked at it for long, but it doesn't seem like there is a lot of space up there.

Also, maybe a dumb question... When making adjustments to the tie rod for toe, the wheels need to be off the jeep or on with its weight?

 

I zip the nuts off with an impact. You won't need the allen wrench this way. If you try with a boxed end wrench you may have to, but more than likely not while pulling them apart. When going back together, yes, allen wrench and a boxed end wrench.

I loosen the nuts several turns then I smack with a hammer. You won't need a fork this way. Leave the nut screwed almost all the way down (maybe 1/8" inch loosened if that makes sense), otherwise if you don't leave the nut on enough you may damage the threads. After it breaks loose you can remove the nut the rest of the way.

As for adjusting toe, make your adjustment with the wheels on the ground then turn the wheel back and forth a few times and center it up and check your measurement again.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the quick response!

Since I can't get an impact up on the drag link side, is there any other way in case it doesn't come loose? Cant seem to find a 7mm head anywhere around me... Knowing my jeep, ill need it.

 

The 7mm on,y come in sets really. If you clean the treads good with a wire brush you won't need it. Are you replacing it or putting it back on? If you are replacing it, use a fork, 3 whacks and you are done. If you are putting it back on, use the BFH technique. I used a 8lb sledge and a 3lb wedge with good luck. There is no room for the puller with the frame crossbar behind the radiator.

 

Ill be replacing the the tie rod entirely, so I'll go with the whacking method. Thanks!

Also, do I leave some threads exposed on each tie rod end? I know I need to match it up to stock, but I am assuming i want the TREs to be threaded in as much as possibe while still allowing for adjustment.

And the jam nut, what exactly is the purpose of it and why does everyone say it needs to be tight as hell?

 

You may need a tool to crack the pitman taper depending on how many years its been on. Mine took a brutal beating with a fork to separate.

 

^ I have a pitman arm puller. Is that not enough?

 

Spray PB or use another penetrating oil.

They will break loose easier than you think. If you can, use two hammers. A dead blow resting on one side and using a 3-4lb sledge on the other. First time I removed mine was after 7 years. Took 3 whacks.

 

Used a ball joint separator, was not enjoying hitting my pitman arm to get the ball joint out.
I was having so much rust in there I did not need the 7mm for removing, installing I did need.

I spend most of my time running part and do the basic alignment than changing the parts