So, I've wheeled the heck out of my 2017 Rubicon Recon 2dr for a couple years now. I have a 3.5 MC lift, some under body protection, some other mods, etc. Now it seems like I need to upgrade/ change out the TB & DL as I'm getting some shimmy on the road and some bump steer. I'm not getting any play in the ball joints (that I can tell), so I'm thinking a steering upgrade should be next on my list. He's my question, since I'm going to upgrade the TB & DJ, is it way overkill on a Dana 44 (the Recon has thicker walls by a bit and larger C's) to go with a 2.5 ton steering kit. I'm looking at the Fusion 4x4 2.5 ton combo kit. It costs more than a 1 ton kit or Tereflex HD, Metalcloak HD, etc., but maybe it offers an improvement even though I'm not running a dana 60? Any guidance is appreciated.

 

You may want to check with Fusion before you order and ensue the tie rod will clear your diff cover, the Recon's also had different covers, right?

 

If you have the MC 3.5" lift, do you not have the MC track bar? Just curious as you mention replacing the TB (just curious if why not just replace the bushing rather than the whole TB). What drag link do you currently have? How are you testing the ball joints? Using a shovel or long pry bar under the tire to force upward pressure?

I have the Fusion 4x4 2.5-ton TR on a PR44 front axle with factory knuckles. It clears that DT diff cover ok. Thing is beefy, but probably bit overkill.

 

Sorry. I used the TB acronym incorrectly. The question was for Tie Rod (TR) and Drag link. I have the Metal Cloak track bar which came with the suspension.

I'm currently still using the Recon version of the diff cover that it came with. I'll be switching to a ARB on the front soon. I'll definitely check with Fusion before I buy about clearance for a new diff cover.

Regarding checking the ball joints, I jacked up the front end and checked up/ down, side to side, and angle in and out (X, Y, and Z dimensions) and didn't see any measurable movement.

 

You're gonna be hard-pressed to diagnose a bad BJ that way. What I do is jack up the axle so front tires are couple inches off the ground. support on jack stands so the axle is stable. put a shovel uner a tire and step on the handle using it as leverage to force the tire up. Look for any movement where the C and the knuckle meet by the upper BJ. The lower BJ is what craps out, but the easiest place to see the movement is by the upper BJ IMO. if you hear any noise/clunk it's bad. If you see any movement that isn't nearly flexing (like actual up/down movement in that knuckle) it's a bad sign. You shouldn't see much at all.

I'd definitely look at that closely before dropping big money on a TR. I did have a clearance issue with that Fusion 4x4 TR and my TF 13" front rotors (those TR ends are huge), but I don't have the typical set up so might have been specific to my jeep/axle.

 

Thanks resharp. I'll take another look. I'd hate to spend $800+ on TR & DL and then go have to spend more $$ on new ball joints.

 

I am not a fan of the rare parts TRE's big, heavy, and they will flop around once they are broke in. I would not put them on a dana 30 or 44. Metal Cloak has their own TRE's now and are a pretty nice upgrade to the factory stuff. I would also flip the drag link if you have not already done it.