Tire Alignment and Angle Question
I recently installed a 3" suspension lift and 33" tires on my '07 JK. About 4 months ago. Iv been pushing it pretty hard on the trail and im starting to see some wear and tear on the front wheel alignment.
If looking at the front of the car, it seems like the tires are turning outward slightly. Im sure this is just an allignment problem from wheeling so much. The thing that concerns me is that, looking at the car at the same angle from the front, the tires are vertically angled so that the top of the tire is closer to the car than the bottom. So the tires are turned inward at the top almost as if they are being pushed out from the bottom.
I think this is from wear on the joints that causes this sagging but then again im not a technition and I hope to get some insight from someone who is more Jeep savy. Thanks!
If looking at the front of the car, it seems like the tires are turning outward slightly. Im sure this is just an allignment problem from wheeling so much. The thing that concerns me is that, looking at the car at the same angle from the front, the tires are vertically angled so that the top of the tire is closer to the car than the bottom. So the tires are turned inward at the top almost as if they are being pushed out from the bottom.
I think this is from wear on the joints that causes this sagging but then again im not a technition and I hope to get some insight from someone who is more Jeep savy. Thanks!
Camber?
It means your C's are bent, or the housing is bent. See if you can get a free alignment check to verify just how far out of specs you are.
The 'fix' is offset balljoints, which from previous posts, is roughly a $600 job.
The Toe you can set yourself.
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment
It means your C's are bent, or the housing is bent. See if you can get a free alignment check to verify just how far out of specs you are.
The 'fix' is offset balljoints, which from previous posts, is roughly a $600 job.
The Toe you can set yourself.
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...-end-alignment
Dang, there goes a nice hunk of cash...
It has to be done though, I can see the tread wearing down pretty hard on the inside. Hopefully there are no other big problems that can arise from driving on that for a couple weeks....?
Thanks for the help!
It has to be done though, I can see the tread wearing down pretty hard on the inside. Hopefully there are no other big problems that can arise from driving on that for a couple weeks....?
Thanks for the help!
In addition to the offsets, you need to determine what is bent.
- If it is the C's, you need to have gussets welded in to keep them from bending any further.
- If the housing is bent enough, you can lose the seals and even the r&p. Expect probably 5-6 hours of labor to straighten it.
That is assuming, of course, that whatever is bent isn't so far gone that it can't be fixed.
And depending on your budget and usage, you should also look in to sleeves (and maybe a truss) when the gussets go in.
But, get some estimates for all of the work, and see if moving to a PR44 would make more sense.
- If it is the C's, you need to have gussets welded in to keep them from bending any further.
- If the housing is bent enough, you can lose the seals and even the r&p. Expect probably 5-6 hours of labor to straighten it.
That is assuming, of course, that whatever is bent isn't so far gone that it can't be fixed.
And depending on your budget and usage, you should also look in to sleeves (and maybe a truss) when the gussets go in.
But, get some estimates for all of the work, and see if moving to a PR44 would make more sense.
Dynatrac ProRock 44 front axle.
You have a little D30 up front. The rubicon has a D44 up front. (bigger gears and axle shafts, but same weak housing as your 30). To make them stronger, you sink a bunch of money into welding on sleeves and gussets and a truss and hd mounts.
Or, you get an aftermarket housing that is beefy as hell and blows away a fully upgraded factory housing.
Press release on this forum:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-Forum-Members!
And the reason I mentioned it is that a PR may make a lot more sense than dumping a ton of money into a D30 that you already know is weak. Just depends on your specific situation.
You have a little D30 up front. The rubicon has a D44 up front. (bigger gears and axle shafts, but same weak housing as your 30). To make them stronger, you sink a bunch of money into welding on sleeves and gussets and a truss and hd mounts.
Or, you get an aftermarket housing that is beefy as hell and blows away a fully upgraded factory housing.
Press release on this forum:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-Forum-Members!
And the reason I mentioned it is that a PR may make a lot more sense than dumping a ton of money into a D30 that you already know is weak. Just depends on your specific situation.
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For your current 33's, a D60 is definitely overkill. But it would be a good option if you plan on moving up towards 40" tires. A pr44 would be plenty stout for most people on 37's or smaller.
You should also keep your eyes open for a cheap rubi front axle from someone that is upgrading to a pr or a 60. You would still want to strengthen the housing, but you can sometimes find a screaming good deal on them.
(can you tell that I am not a fan of dumping money into our stock d30 housings...
)
You should also keep your eyes open for a cheap rubi front axle from someone that is upgrading to a pr or a 60. You would still want to strengthen the housing, but you can sometimes find a screaming good deal on them.
(can you tell that I am not a fan of dumping money into our stock d30 housings...
)
Haha I can see why now
Iv known that they arent strong enough if your really pushing your rig. Iv only had 33"s for 6 months or so and about 3 weeks in I started looking for 37"s so a new axle setup would compliment that well. Plus im going to win that 4" longarm kit from Project JK anyways so ill do it all at once (fingers crossed
).
Ill keep the Rubicon axle in mind, and look around for a deal. Does that require some welding or does it have the same mounts for suspension as the X?
Iv known that they arent strong enough if your really pushing your rig. Iv only had 33"s for 6 months or so and about 3 weeks in I started looking for 37"s so a new axle setup would compliment that well. Plus im going to win that 4" longarm kit from Project JK anyways so ill do it all at once (fingers crossed
). Ill keep the Rubicon axle in mind, and look around for a deal. Does that require some welding or does it have the same mounts for suspension as the X?
Direct bolt on, same mount locations and everything. With the exception of the center section on the 44 being larger, they are the exact same housings. And you can re-use your d30 ends if you don't find a complete rubi 44. (they both use the same 32sp outer axle shafts, brakes, rotors, etc)
And my reply to this:
is that you don't have to push your rig.
Stock jk on 32's running onto a curb at 20mph
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...on-please-help!!!!
Hows that for a stout stock housing...
And my reply to this:
Iv known that they arent strong enough if your really pushing your rig.
Stock jk on 32's running onto a curb at 20mph
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...on-please-help!!!!
Hows that for a stout stock housing...



