You could go .1 and .1 for total .20 or any other variation to get you in the .10 thru .24 total toe, that puts you within factory spec. .20 is middle of the road factory spec.
Hell, split the difference and run .15 , thats what I run on my 37's. Again, the alinement machine can vary abit each time soooo as far as my measurements vs machine it looked to be about 1/8in toe in.

 

My tierod adj sleeve rotates one way toe-in, one way toe out for both tires. Please elaborate.
With a rockrwaler tierod I can see it being different since you adjust each end independently.

 

Gotcha thanks. Not really sure why this guy is so convinced that the negative toe he set me at is toe in, but he will not back down. I told him I will be up there tomorrow and to set it to positive regardless. I measured my toe myself when I got home, and I came up with 5/32 toe out. I would just do it myself, but hell I paid 25 bucks might as well get it done by a machine.

 

Yeah, I dunno either, maybe he knows he made a mistake and won't come clean. I'd prolly take it somewhere else.

 

With the steering box at neutral:

Let's say the right tire is where you want it, but the left tire is too far out.
Bring it in with the tie rod.

Let's say the left tire is where you want it, but the right tire is too far out.
Bring it in with the tie rod, then correct the steering box with drag link.

This assumes you can measure the toe on an individual tire, which an alignment machine can.

It's just another way of looking at it.

 

Found this. Hopefully it will help someone else in my situation.

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/p...e_settings.pdf

Or you can do this to get the desired toe in

arcsin ((1/8)/32) * (180/pi)

where 1/8 is the desired toe in, and 32 is the actual tire diameter.

 

based on info if correct stated above it should be

TOTAL TOE-IN + 0.20° (0.10° each front wheel) ±0.03°
MAX LT/RT DIFFERENCE 0.04°

 

They fixed it this morning.