Tom woods front driveshaft for 2.5" lift and steering upgrades that i might need??
#1
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Tom woods front driveshaft for 2.5" lift and steering upgrades that i might need??
Hey guys just bought a 2013 jk unlimited with what i believe to have a rough county 2.5" spacer lift and shocks. Going to check tonight to see if it has exhaust spacers on it since i see the kit doesn't include them. Swaybar ends look stock and it doesn't have a trac bar bracket. So my question is are there any steering/suspension upgrades that i should look into with what i have now, and would it be dumb to get a driveshaft made now when i eventually might go to a 3-3.5" lift? i plan hitting trails with it the way it is and want to get swaybar end links so i can disconnect them, so im worried about the front driveshaft.
#2
JK Jedi
I'd wait to replace your DS when 1) the TC side boot rips and sends the CV joint to an early death, or 2) you replace the lift and are at your longer-term intended height. It will be fine for the time being.
In regards to steering upgrades.....yes, just about everything should be planned. New tie rod, new drag link, a nice track bar, and by all means decent ball joints. Caster correction if you don't have it......adjustable control arms if you can swing em, correction brackets if you need a more budget friendly option.
In regards to steering upgrades.....yes, just about everything should be planned. New tie rod, new drag link, a nice track bar, and by all means decent ball joints. Caster correction if you don't have it......adjustable control arms if you can swing em, correction brackets if you need a more budget friendly option.
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1. You can't have a track bar bracket without flipping the draglink.
2. You don't need exhaust spacers unless the driveshaft hits them.
3. You don't need a drivesaft at your heights mentioned unless you have a bad driveshaft and want to get an aftermarket.
Spend your money on more necessary items like disconnects and probably shocks.
2. You don't need exhaust spacers unless the driveshaft hits them.
3. You don't need a drivesaft at your heights mentioned unless you have a bad driveshaft and want to get an aftermarket.
Spend your money on more necessary items like disconnects and probably shocks.
#4
JK Jedi
OP was just pointing out there was no bracket, hence factory height (no high steer....which there wouldn't be at that height). I didn't get the impression they wanted to raise the bracket all willy nilly, but they are thinking forward to lifting 3"+
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1. You can't have a track bar bracket without flipping the draglink.
2. You don't need exhaust spacers unless the driveshaft hits them.
3. You don't need a drivesaft at your heights mentioned unless you have a bad driveshaft and want to get an aftermarket.
Spend your money on more necessary items like disconnects and probably shocks.
2. You don't need exhaust spacers unless the driveshaft hits them.
3. You don't need a drivesaft at your heights mentioned unless you have a bad driveshaft and want to get an aftermarket.
Spend your money on more necessary items like disconnects and probably shocks.
#6
JK Jedi
ok...wasn't sure about the driveshaft since ive read people having problems with the boot melting on contact. thats something i want to avoid since ive seen the damage they can do when u joints fail or have so much play that they break the t-case from the vibration lol. I guess it depends who you talk to as well. some are sayin 2.5+ should do something to prevent driveshaft boot contact when articulating with swaybar disconnected and i plan on having disconnects. Also as far as trac bar bracket i saw in there stage II kit it comes with the rear trac bracket not the front.
If you're concerned about that, the boot on the rear will rip as well. You can 1) search up the TF video showing how to simply move the joke of a evap skid over a bit, or 2) flip that rear DS around so the boot is further from hitting the evap skid. Typically that rear DS boot will rip on the first trip off road.
#7
JK Jedi
In PA if that boot rips it can allow salt and debris into the splines and may cause it to freeze up so where you are a spline boot tear should be addressed. Places that are dry and don't use salt for snow melt its not that big a deal and you can simply spray some lube into the splines with your general maintenace. You can always add a limiting strap at the differential to keep the center section from drooping past where you have conflicts with the driveshaft.
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#8
JK Jedi
In PA if that boot rips it can allow salt and debris into the splines and may cause it to freeze up so where you are a spline boot tear should be addressed. Places that are dry and don't use salt for snow melt its not that big a deal and you can simply spray some lube into the splines with your general maintenace. You can always add a limiting strap at the differential to keep the center section from drooping past where you have conflicts with the driveshaft.
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yeah i wish i could relocate from pa to texas....i hate our winters but this year wasn't to bad..Going to look into moving that evap skid plate over though. I would have never thought about that being a problem