Just food for thought...

The best way to keep a torque wrench accurate is to zero it after every use.
Especially inexpensive ones.

Keeping it at... lets say 95 ft/lbs for your wheels, will wear the internal spring
out and decrease the accuracy over time.

I use them on a daily basis and every three months they have to be turned in
for calibration. If they cant get it right it's returned to Snap-On for a new spring.

 

Well that's good to know, considering mine is usually left around 100-125. Ill start zeroing it out after use, thanks for the advise. Hope it hasn't lost its accuracy

 

I have the 1/2" and 3/8" ratcheting click-type torque wrenches from Harbor Freight. They were $14.99 each. I also have the same sizes in Craftsman needle torque wrenches. I tested them against each other and they are accurate.

Anyway, I'm sure the $100+ torque wrenches are better, but for $14.99, the HF one is working great for lug nuts and suspension bolts. They also have a lifetime warranty...so you can always swap for a new one if it's not working properly.

 

Another point to think about:

The beam/pointer torque wrenches are a lot more consistent than the click type.
As long as the pointer is on zero when at rest, the torque will be close to what you want. I quit taking mine to the calibration lab because it always tested within spec. I've had the wrench for over 30 years.

The click type wrenches are OK at first, but after a while you don't know what the torque is. Sometimes, the calibration lab can't even adjust it back to spec. Not usually the case, but you never know if you don't have a "free" lab to bring it to.

 

So are you recomending the cheaper non-ratcheting type?

 

I use the beam type as much as possible, and that is almost all the time.

If it just cannot be used due to surrounding equipment, I use the click type, only after checking it against the beam type. I have an adapter which will allow the two wrenches to be hooked together at the drives. I set the click type to the required torque, and read the beam at the point fo click. If it is close to what I want, I accept it as is. If not, I adjust the click type until it yields the correct reading on the beam type.

Sounds worse than it is, and it's not a certfied way to check. But it's all I have now, and does indicate about where the click wrench is, accuracy wise.

 

As a mechanic I use torque wrenches all the and use both kinds. with tools you get what you pay for, but with torque wrenches they are almost all the same. the more expensive ones are repairable and adjustable for accurecy, the cheeper ones are usually not. For most of the torqueing that we do on our jeep if we are 5-10lbs out it does not make a big difference. The beam type are just a pain to use, If i have a choice I always use a click type so much easyier to do. As to the re-setting back to zero its to the lowest the torque setting that is on the scale, not the bottom of the twisting. If you go that far you run the risk of the spring and seat moving thus screwing up the calibration. If you are going to leave it in the jeep I'd go for cheaper click type one. If its gonna live in the tool box in the shop and you can justiy it go for the expensive one you want.

 

Get a Craftsman brand needle type (BEAM type is the proper term) and it will have the lifetime warranty, since it has no moving parts. Get the highest price beam type they sell. It'll be a real good one and still be less expensive and better then their click type. Beam types have a real advantage. They'll last forever. All you need to do to recalibrate is make sure the pointer is set to zero before you torque. Their only drawback is, you have to get in a position to where you can see the scale. Sometimes that's tough when you're pulling 150 LB FT. Unless you plan on using the torque wrench for anything other than day to day professional use, the beam type will serve you for the rest of your life.

 

If you are going to be using the adustable the suggestion that you hook the adjustable to a beam type now and then is a good idea since they can go out of calibration. I use dial type, beam type and adjustable the first 2 are the most accurate over the long haul if you don't have a calibration lab handy. The leave it set at zero when stored is a really good tip for the adjustables.

 

I agree. I bought the needle type to work on my BMW motorcycle. I didn't have a Jeep yet. I went the cheaper route. Now I'll need to buy a quality one. I should of done it right the first time.