trac loc
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 301
Likes: 1
From: Thee Great Pacific Northwest, US
Trak loc is STANDARD ON THE JK SAHARA PLATFORM!
It is a totally different system from the BLD. All JK's have the BLD standard. It's the little ESP light that comes on when it's slick. Trak Loc is available as an option for all JKs except Rubicons (full lockers) and Saharas (because it is standard equipment).
The best way to see ow Trak Loc kicks in (similar to lockers) on the JK is get a wheel off the ground/off camber etc and notice it looks like an open diff. But... ADD ABOUT 3,000 rpm and voila, the trak loc kicks in, both wheels move at the same rotation. The best way to get the system engaged is to simply add rpm's.
And yes, it is VERY worth it. At $295, you'll wish you had it. Guaranteed.
Ymmv
It is a totally different system from the BLD. All JK's have the BLD standard. It's the little ESP light that comes on when it's slick. Trak Loc is available as an option for all JKs except Rubicons (full lockers) and Saharas (because it is standard equipment).
The best way to see ow Trak Loc kicks in (similar to lockers) on the JK is get a wheel off the ground/off camber etc and notice it looks like an open diff. But... ADD ABOUT 3,000 rpm and voila, the trak loc kicks in, both wheels move at the same rotation. The best way to get the system engaged is to simply add rpm's.
And yes, it is VERY worth it. At $295, you'll wish you had it. Guaranteed.
Ymmv
Last edited by RescueGreen#3; Sep 18, 2012 at 06:07 AM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: East Stroudsburg, PA
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: East Stroudsburg, PA
Trak loc is STANDARD ON THE JK SAHARA PLATFORM!
It is a totally different system from the BLD. All JK's have the BLD standard. It's the little ESP light that comes on when it's slick. Trak Loc is available as an option for all JKs except Rubicons (full lockers) and Saharas (because it is standard equipment).
The best way to see ow Trak Loc kicks in (similar to lockers) on the JK is get a wheel off the ground/off camber etc and notice it looks like an open diff. But... ADD ABOUT 3,000 rpm and voila, the trak loc kicks in, both wheels move at the same rotation. The best way to get the system engaged is to simply add rpm's.
And yes, it is VERY worth it. At $295, you'll wish you had it. Guaranteed.
Ymmv
It is a totally different system from the BLD. All JK's have the BLD standard. It's the little ESP light that comes on when it's slick. Trak Loc is available as an option for all JKs except Rubicons (full lockers) and Saharas (because it is standard equipment).
The best way to see ow Trak Loc kicks in (similar to lockers) on the JK is get a wheel off the ground/off camber etc and notice it looks like an open diff. But... ADD ABOUT 3,000 rpm and voila, the trak loc kicks in, both wheels move at the same rotation. The best way to get the system engaged is to simply add rpm's.
And yes, it is VERY worth it. At $295, you'll wish you had it. Guaranteed.
Ymmv
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: East Stroudsburg, PA
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 419
Likes: 2
From: Indy
I wouldn't order it with LSD
Factory Option Anti-Spin Differential Rear= Trac-Loc (I'm not sure of the exact right spelling. I have also seen it Trac-Lok, Trak-loc, Track-Lock, or even Trash-Lock) its not bad other than it will wear out and is rather weak from the start.
TERMS
diff=differential=gears in the bulge in the middle of the axle giving power to both wheels
torque=ability for a wheel to put pushing weight on the Jeep. To produce torque you need traction and power. A spinning tire produces very little to no torque.
OPEN DIFFERENTIAL
Both wheels on an axle are only going to get only as much torque as the wheel with least traction. So if one wheel is off the ground neither wheel would get torque.
I would watch this video starting at 1:50. It is the best visulazation your ever going to get showing how open diff's work. By the end you should see why one tire can go limp if the other side doesn't have traction. @2:50 you will see the downside of lockers and how they put stress on the axle when turning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI BLD-Break Lock Differentials
All wranglers have BLD - Break Lock Differentials. It is basically like a computer controlled LSD(=Limited Slip Differential). It will sense one wheel on an axle spinning much too fast to just be turning. It gives a little break to that spinning wheel to transfer power over to the other wheel, that has more traction . So really no JK has open diff's in a driving situation because of this traction control system. It's the best your going to get with a Rubicon. It's locker does not allow for a factory LSD to be added. (I have heard of an aftermarket Locker for JK's that has LSD when not locked. Basically like the old TJ Rubicons had. I cannot name any off the top of my head though.) (EDIT: Auburn Ected Max Manual Locker, thanks Capper5016)
There is a chrysler blog about the BLD system here->Chrysler Blog - Jeep Brake Traction Control Explained
On this video at about 45 seconds you see BLD kicking in. If it wasn't for BLD the front passenger side would be totally still. It would get the exactly the same amount of torque as the spinning side, but that wouldn't be enough to over come the friction that is holding it still.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8MAzmLSVIc LSD- Limited Slip Differential
LSD works with either clutch plates(like the factory Trac-Loc) or gears (like Eaton TrueTrac). It lives in the differentials. It works mechanically with friction trying to keep both tires spinning together. It requires some traction to the slipping tire to transfer to the other wheel. Because of this you can use a bit of break (or parking break) to increase its effectiveness (this also works for BLD). They are great for road driving because they can be used at high speeds and on dry pavement. There always there working without having to flip a switch. They can be put on either axle. The factory option only comes with LSD on the rear. That's the driving axle in 2WD.
TRAC-LOC LSD- Factory Option Anti-Spin Differential Rear
When there is little or no traction your quickly eating up your clutch plates on a Trac-Loc LSD. In the "Four Wheelers Bible: 2nd Edition" he states
So every time you drive your Jeep your slowly loosing its effectiveness. Offroad situations like a wheel off the ground, sand, and mud are going to drastically lower it's effective lifespan. The clutch plates can be replaced when they are no longer effective. At best, just off the dealers lot, your going to get about 25% more than the spinning tires torque transferred over.
From a JP magazine web article
Read more: Jeep Locker Overview - Jp Magazine
EATON DETROIT TRUETRAC (LSD - Not to be confused with the locker)
This is what I would go with as far as LSD if you need/want it. It's an aftermarket LSD option that uses worm gears instead of clutch plates. They do not wear down over time. They also give you a better locking percentage to the non-spinning wheel. If the quote below is true, and you see a 3:1 Bias Ratio, that translates into 50% more torque transferred over from the spinning tire, to the tire with more traction.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZmsY2YvVsc LOCKERS
I'll talk about lockers here hopefully to illustrate the difference from LSD .
PART TIME LOCKERS - What a Rubicon has
Where as LSD would transfer at most 50% more torque from the spinning tire, to the tire with more traction. Lockers will allow all the available power to be applied to the high traction tire regardless of the other wheel. They will shine the brightest over LSD when one tire gets little or no traction (like in the air). You only want to used them when you really need them because they are very stressful on the axles when turning. Basically requiring the inside tire to slip. It's worth noting, if your using front lockers, it makes turning not as sharp. The lockers are controlled with a button or switch. The factory Rubicon lockers (not mod-ed) will only work in 4-Low going less than 25mph. They are strictly for off road, or getting unstuck situations. Reasons to mod the lockers for 4-High would be situations like sand and mud.
FULL TIME AUTOMATIC LOCKERS
There is also full time lockers (Like the Eaton Detroit Locker, or Yukon Grizzly Locker) that are more for trail rigs. They do not have a switch, and work mechanically without needing activation. They can be driven on the road. When turning they will allow the outside wheel to ratchet forward if no, or little, power is applied. They will not be a like stock ride. You will know and feel they are there when turning and hear them also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYBOoljH-qE I'm going to throw down a copy paste job from poster Dynatrac. It was taken from another forum.
TERMS
diff=differential=gears in the bulge in the middle of the axle giving power to both wheels
torque=ability for a wheel to put pushing weight on the Jeep. To produce torque you need traction and power. A spinning tire produces very little to no torque.
OPEN DIFFERENTIAL
Both wheels on an axle are only going to get only as much torque as the wheel with least traction. So if one wheel is off the ground neither wheel would get torque.
I would watch this video starting at 1:50. It is the best visulazation your ever going to get showing how open diff's work. By the end you should see why one tire can go limp if the other side doesn't have traction. @2:50 you will see the downside of lockers and how they put stress on the axle when turning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYAw79386WI BLD-Break Lock Differentials
All wranglers have BLD - Break Lock Differentials. It is basically like a computer controlled LSD(=Limited Slip Differential). It will sense one wheel on an axle spinning much too fast to just be turning. It gives a little break to that spinning wheel to transfer power over to the other wheel, that has more traction . So really no JK has open diff's in a driving situation because of this traction control system. It's the best your going to get with a Rubicon. It's locker does not allow for a factory LSD to be added. (I have heard of an aftermarket Locker for JK's that has LSD when not locked. Basically like the old TJ Rubicons had. I cannot name any off the top of my head though.) (EDIT: Auburn Ected Max Manual Locker, thanks Capper5016)
There is a chrysler blog about the BLD system here->Chrysler Blog - Jeep Brake Traction Control Explained
On this video at about 45 seconds you see BLD kicking in. If it wasn't for BLD the front passenger side would be totally still. It would get the exactly the same amount of torque as the spinning side, but that wouldn't be enough to over come the friction that is holding it still.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8MAzmLSVIc LSD- Limited Slip Differential
LSD works with either clutch plates(like the factory Trac-Loc) or gears (like Eaton TrueTrac). It lives in the differentials. It works mechanically with friction trying to keep both tires spinning together. It requires some traction to the slipping tire to transfer to the other wheel. Because of this you can use a bit of break (or parking break) to increase its effectiveness (this also works for BLD). They are great for road driving because they can be used at high speeds and on dry pavement. There always there working without having to flip a switch. They can be put on either axle. The factory option only comes with LSD on the rear. That's the driving axle in 2WD.
TRAC-LOC LSD- Factory Option Anti-Spin Differential Rear
When there is little or no traction your quickly eating up your clutch plates on a Trac-Loc LSD. In the "Four Wheelers Bible: 2nd Edition" he states
By the time a rig hits 100,000 miles, the average clutch-type LSD has turned into an open diff.(page 35)
From a JP magazine web article
Read more: Jeep Locker Overview - Jp Magazine
Trac-Lok
Overview: The Trac-Lok is the OEM limited slip differential offered in many vehicles-from early CJs from the mid-'70s up through XJs and some TJs. It uses stacks of friction discs that hold the spider gears from differentiating until enough torque is generated by the shafts to let them spin.
Street:
You'll think you're driving an open diff. The Trac-Lok is largely unnoticeable.
Off-road:
You'll think you're driving an open diff. The Trac-Lok is largely unnoticeable. Unless it's new from the factory, don't expect anything but poor performance off-road from a Trac-Lok.
Good: It probably came in your Jeep from the factory. The unit can be rebuilt at home.
Bad: They require gear oil with a friction modifier and have wearable clutches inside. If you're planning on adding a lunchbox locker, you'll need to order a special application that will work with the clutch disc recess in the case. The recess inside of the case makes it slightly weaker than a standard open diff case. It's difficult to weld into a spool if that's your thing. Basically, they don't work well, so don't waste your money. You're better off with an open diff.
Overview: The Trac-Lok is the OEM limited slip differential offered in many vehicles-from early CJs from the mid-'70s up through XJs and some TJs. It uses stacks of friction discs that hold the spider gears from differentiating until enough torque is generated by the shafts to let them spin.
Street:
You'll think you're driving an open diff. The Trac-Lok is largely unnoticeable.
Off-road:
You'll think you're driving an open diff. The Trac-Lok is largely unnoticeable. Unless it's new from the factory, don't expect anything but poor performance off-road from a Trac-Lok.
Good: It probably came in your Jeep from the factory. The unit can be rebuilt at home.
Bad: They require gear oil with a friction modifier and have wearable clutches inside. If you're planning on adding a lunchbox locker, you'll need to order a special application that will work with the clutch disc recess in the case. The recess inside of the case makes it slightly weaker than a standard open diff case. It's difficult to weld into a spool if that's your thing. Basically, they don't work well, so don't waste your money. You're better off with an open diff.
This is what I would go with as far as LSD if you need/want it. It's an aftermarket LSD option that uses worm gears instead of clutch plates. They do not wear down over time. They also give you a better locking percentage to the non-spinning wheel. If the quote below is true, and you see a 3:1 Bias Ratio, that translates into 50% more torque transferred over from the spinning tire, to the tire with more traction.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZmsY2YvVsc LOCKERS
I'll talk about lockers here hopefully to illustrate the difference from LSD .
PART TIME LOCKERS - What a Rubicon has
Where as LSD would transfer at most 50% more torque from the spinning tire, to the tire with more traction. Lockers will allow all the available power to be applied to the high traction tire regardless of the other wheel. They will shine the brightest over LSD when one tire gets little or no traction (like in the air). You only want to used them when you really need them because they are very stressful on the axles when turning. Basically requiring the inside tire to slip. It's worth noting, if your using front lockers, it makes turning not as sharp. The lockers are controlled with a button or switch. The factory Rubicon lockers (not mod-ed) will only work in 4-Low going less than 25mph. They are strictly for off road, or getting unstuck situations. Reasons to mod the lockers for 4-High would be situations like sand and mud.
FULL TIME AUTOMATIC LOCKERS
There is also full time lockers (Like the Eaton Detroit Locker, or Yukon Grizzly Locker) that are more for trail rigs. They do not have a switch, and work mechanically without needing activation. They can be driven on the road. When turning they will allow the outside wheel to ratchet forward if no, or little, power is applied. They will not be a like stock ride. You will know and feel they are there when turning and hear them also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYBOoljH-qE I'm going to throw down a copy paste job from poster Dynatrac. It was taken from another forum.
A clutch style LSD uses spring pressure (preload) to work at slow speeds (or light torque input). At greater torgue input, like leaving the line during a drag race, the pressure angle of the gear teeth design apply the majority of force. To allow a vehicle to navigate a corner, the outside tire must be able to go faster than the inside or the inside tire will drag. On a clutch driven LSD this is accomplished by traction of the outside tire overcoming clutch and/or spring pressure. On low traction surfaces such as ice, traction will usually not provide enough torque to allow that slippage for cornering. In some situations this is very good as it will allow you to leave a slippery stop sign, but at other times it will cause you to understeer through a corner.
A Truetrac LSD is a helical gear design (no clutches) and acts like an open differential until it senses a difference in torque loads from one side to the other. When torque loads differ, the internal helical gears slightly bind to the case and send more traction to the side that is sensing more torque. In a slick environment you'll get the extra traction you need without the understeer so common with a clutch driven LSD.
The bias ratio of an LSD plays a big part in its effectiveness. Bias ratio is the amount of torque that can be transmitted from one side to the other in low traction situations. As an example, take a 2wd car on a corner with ice on the right side but bare, dry pavement on the left side. Due to the extremely slick condition on the right side, it may only take 30 lbs. of torque to spin the tire. The factory Trac Loc has a bias ratio of between 1.6 and 2.0. Using the 2.0 ratio as an example, this means that in a low traction situation 2x the torque of the bad side will be transferred to the side with traction. In the case of our example where 30 lbs. of torque was enough to spin the tire, 2x or 60 lbs. of torque will be transferred to the other side. Depending on the situation, 60 lbs. of torque may or may not provide enough push to move the vehicle. A better LSD with more bias has a better chance of moving the vehicle. A Truetrac has nearly a 3-1 bias ratio. Some clutch driven LSDs (not the Trac Loc) can be tuned to get a better bias ratio. This is normally used in high performance street cars. While this tuning can help a vehicle in the above situation when leaving a stop sign, the added pressure required to break the clutches free during turning would cause the vehcile to greatly understeer on a slick road.
In the case used above, if the bias ratio torque wasn't enough to move the vehicle, the tire with no traction would free spin just like an open differential. During this free spin condition the clutches in the clutch driven LSD would be experiencing accelerated wear and the bias ratio is reduced. Over time, and sometimes it doesn't take long, the clutch driven LSD would act as an open differential due to excessive clutch wear. The Truetrac doesn't wear during a free spin condition. It will never need to be rebuilt and should last the life of your vehicle. Additionally, a clutch driven LSD requires a friction modifying agent in the gear oil help the clutches work properly. A Truetrac doesn't require a friction modifier and is best with plain 90-140w dino oil.
Most users have heard that by applying a lttle brake when in the spin condition an LSD will work better. This is true. Using the example shown earlier, if we add the brake into the equation, we might be able to boost the torque the differential senses- the brake adds resistance which increases the torque level. This added resistance/torque, may just be enough, when multiplied, to move the vehicle.
A Truetrac LSD is a helical gear design (no clutches) and acts like an open differential until it senses a difference in torque loads from one side to the other. When torque loads differ, the internal helical gears slightly bind to the case and send more traction to the side that is sensing more torque. In a slick environment you'll get the extra traction you need without the understeer so common with a clutch driven LSD.
The bias ratio of an LSD plays a big part in its effectiveness. Bias ratio is the amount of torque that can be transmitted from one side to the other in low traction situations. As an example, take a 2wd car on a corner with ice on the right side but bare, dry pavement on the left side. Due to the extremely slick condition on the right side, it may only take 30 lbs. of torque to spin the tire. The factory Trac Loc has a bias ratio of between 1.6 and 2.0. Using the 2.0 ratio as an example, this means that in a low traction situation 2x the torque of the bad side will be transferred to the side with traction. In the case of our example where 30 lbs. of torque was enough to spin the tire, 2x or 60 lbs. of torque will be transferred to the other side. Depending on the situation, 60 lbs. of torque may or may not provide enough push to move the vehicle. A better LSD with more bias has a better chance of moving the vehicle. A Truetrac has nearly a 3-1 bias ratio. Some clutch driven LSDs (not the Trac Loc) can be tuned to get a better bias ratio. This is normally used in high performance street cars. While this tuning can help a vehicle in the above situation when leaving a stop sign, the added pressure required to break the clutches free during turning would cause the vehcile to greatly understeer on a slick road.
In the case used above, if the bias ratio torque wasn't enough to move the vehicle, the tire with no traction would free spin just like an open differential. During this free spin condition the clutches in the clutch driven LSD would be experiencing accelerated wear and the bias ratio is reduced. Over time, and sometimes it doesn't take long, the clutch driven LSD would act as an open differential due to excessive clutch wear. The Truetrac doesn't wear during a free spin condition. It will never need to be rebuilt and should last the life of your vehicle. Additionally, a clutch driven LSD requires a friction modifying agent in the gear oil help the clutches work properly. A Truetrac doesn't require a friction modifier and is best with plain 90-140w dino oil.
Most users have heard that by applying a lttle brake when in the spin condition an LSD will work better. This is true. Using the example shown earlier, if we add the brake into the equation, we might be able to boost the torque the differential senses- the brake adds resistance which increases the torque level. This added resistance/torque, may just be enough, when multiplied, to move the vehicle.
Last edited by Rooster76; Sep 18, 2012 at 10:49 AM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 301
Likes: 1
From: Thee Great Pacific Northwest, US
This is the BLD system here->
On this video at about 45 seconds you see BLD kicking in. If it wasn't for BLD the front passenger side would be totally still. It would get the exactly the same amount of torque as the spinning side, but that wouldn't be enough to over come the friction that is holding it still.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8MAzmLSVIc
^^^ for the record, this vehicle does not have Trak-Loc ^^^
In real world applications, the BLD and Trak-Loc is waaaay more off road capable than 95% of all Jeeps sold will ever use.
Had the driver aired tires down to 12 PSI and had Trak-Loc, he probably would have had a MUCH better go of this easy obstacle.
When doing Funny Rocks in Washington, there was a JKU Sahara (with Trak-Loc) which just scaled up funny rocks (once the RPMs got up around 2500/3500) while a standard JK with just BLD couldn't go anywhere. It just sat and spun spun spun. Where as the trak-loc hooked up at rpm the jeep shuddered and up it went.
If a JK owner is going to be rock crawling/ Moab/ hard core wheeling then they will automatically & instinctively gravitate towards the Rubicon. But, again, for 95% of all Jeeps, the Trak-loc is more than adequate.
Ps... I am curious as to what the 100k shelf life figure came in? Is that documented? Can it be proven? Or, is this just Internet blubber?
Again $295, yes, the Trak-Loc is well worth it.
Last edited by RescueGreen#3; Sep 18, 2012 at 02:37 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 419
Likes: 2
From: Indy
I take it you bought the option
^^^ for the record, this vehicle does not have Trak-Loc ^^^
In real world applications, the BLD and Trak-Loc is waaaay more off road capable than 95% of all Jeeps sold will ever use.
Had the driver aired tires down to 12 PSI and had Trak-Loc, he probably would have had a MUCH better go of this easy obstacle.
When doing Funny Rocks in Washington, there was a JKU Sahara (with Trak-Loc) which just scaled up funny rocks (once the RPMs got up around 2500/3500) while a standard JK with just BLD couldn't go anywhere. It just sat and spun spun spun. Where as the trak-loc hooked up at rpm the jeep shuddered and up it went.
If a JK owner is going to be rock crawling/ Moab/ hard core wheeling then they will automatically & instinctively gravitate towards the Rubicon. But, again, for 95% of all Jeeps, the Trak-loc is more than adequate.
Ps... I am curious as to what the 100k shelf life figure came in? Is that documented? Can it be proven? Or, is this just Internet blubber?
Again $295, yes, the Trak-Loc is well worth it.
In real world applications, the BLD and Trak-Loc is waaaay more off road capable than 95% of all Jeeps sold will ever use.
Had the driver aired tires down to 12 PSI and had Trak-Loc, he probably would have had a MUCH better go of this easy obstacle.
When doing Funny Rocks in Washington, there was a JKU Sahara (with Trak-Loc) which just scaled up funny rocks (once the RPMs got up around 2500/3500) while a standard JK with just BLD couldn't go anywhere. It just sat and spun spun spun. Where as the trak-loc hooked up at rpm the jeep shuddered and up it went.
If a JK owner is going to be rock crawling/ Moab/ hard core wheeling then they will automatically & instinctively gravitate towards the Rubicon. But, again, for 95% of all Jeeps, the Trak-loc is more than adequate.
Ps... I am curious as to what the 100k shelf life figure came in? Is that documented? Can it be proven? Or, is this just Internet blubber?
Again $295, yes, the Trak-Loc is well worth it.
I have nothing against LSD. It's better then not having it. Lockers are only really needed very rarely and would not help you on snow and slick roads at speed.
Here are a couple quotes from the Jeep Blog article I mentioned above.
Chrysler Blog - Jeep Brake Traction Control Explained
Just to get this out of the way; from the Jeep perspective, BLD is not a substitute for locking differentials. It is a means to greatly expand the off road capability of vehicles that were not purchased with or do not offer locking differentials.
A Jeep vehicle with BLD will negotiate almost any obstacle or driving situation that a similar vehicle with locking differential will. BLD does require a change in driving style and more torque to negotiate the obstacle.
A Jeep vehicle with BLD will negotiate almost any obstacle or driving situation that a similar vehicle with locking differential will. BLD does require a change in driving style and more torque to negotiate the obstacle.
USING BREAKS TO HELP GET TRACTION (BLD or LSD)
In order to get the most out of BLD, the driver must adapt their driving style to characteristics of BLD. For example, when in a situation where one or more wheels loose traction and the vehicle will not continue in the desired direction, the driver should carefully and smoothly apply the throttle to allow more torque to go the wheels with traction as the brake(s) are applied.
BLD looks at individual driven axles and tries to keep the wheels turning at the same speed. BLD does not try to limit how fast the wheels turn, just that they turn at the same speed.
BLD looks at individual driven axles and tries to keep the wheels turning at the same speed. BLD does not try to limit how fast the wheels turn, just that they turn at the same speed.
The 100,000 mile open diff comment came from page 35 (as noted and very obvious) of Four-Wheelers Bible. Clutch plates in the trac-loc wear down with use, much like clutches and break-pads do. I have heard quicker than 100,000 before. It really matters how many low friction situations you get in how fast they will wear out.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 301
Likes: 1
From: Thee Great Pacific Northwest, US
I put that video under the heading BLD. I was trying to point out the differences. I guess maybe that wasn't obvious.
I have nothing against LSD. It's better then not having it. Lockers are only really needed very rarely and would not help you on snow and slick roads at speed.
The 100,000 mile open diff comment came from page 35 (as noted and very obvious) of Four-Wheelers Bible. Clutch plates in the trac-loc wear down with use, much like clutches and break-pads do. I have heard quicker than 100,000 before. It really matters how many low friction situations you get in how fast they will wear out.
I have nothing against LSD. It's better then not having it. Lockers are only really needed very rarely and would not help you on snow and slick roads at speed.
The 100,000 mile open diff comment came from page 35 (as noted and very obvious) of Four-Wheelers Bible. Clutch plates in the trac-loc wear down with use, much like clutches and break-pads do. I have heard quicker than 100,000 before. It really matters how many low friction situations you get in how fast they will wear out.
No worries at all. I think it's a great post. Since this was a Trac Lok thread, I was just pointing out the prior YouTube clip showed a standard JK without Trac-Lok.
I was unaware that the plates had a shelf life. Obviously, I'm certain all things mechanical have a failure point, no doubt. I was simply unsure of that article about 100k. On our Sahara I've been pleasantly surprised (very surprised actually) in its off camber traction capability. We have quick disco's on the sway bar and I have been extremely surprised at how flexy these JKU's are. I was a skeptic too but, this is by the the most capable wrangler we've ever owned. By far.
Thank you for the links too
Last edited by RescueGreen#3; Sep 19, 2012 at 04:54 AM.