Traction aiding devices
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Milford, MI
Traction aiding devices
Just wondering if anyone has added a traction aiding device to their JK yet, front or rear?
I had a lock-rite in the front of my XJ and think that was the best money I ever spent as far as impact to off road abilities go. Wondering if they mess with the ESP? I can't imagine it would, but figured that I would ask if anyone has experience yet.
Working thru the thought of building up a X over buying a Rubi, to save a few $$. If I were to get a X, I would be wanting to throw something in the front and rear, like a Lock-rite.
I had a lock-rite in the front of my XJ and think that was the best money I ever spent as far as impact to off road abilities go. Wondering if they mess with the ESP? I can't imagine it would, but figured that I would ask if anyone has experience yet.
Working thru the thought of building up a X over buying a Rubi, to save a few $$. If I were to get a X, I would be wanting to throw something in the front and rear, like a Lock-rite.
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
From: Saint Petersburg, Fl
A rubi would be fun outta the box, but I went with the X because all the fancy toys on the rubi would just be replaced by even better aftermarket parts anyways. The only difference between a built up rubi and a built up X is about $7,000 and a sticker. ....Although it would be nice to have dual D44's underneath... 
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Milford, MI
I was thinking about this more.....
Ok, let me test the logic here:
BLD - in a normal situation, the wheel speed is monitered and the brake is applied to the slipping (going too fast) wheel, and for the fronts, the turing radius has to be taken into account since the wheels naturally travel at different speeds during a turn.
Enter a lock-right:
1. Normal full traction situations, the outside front tire will over-run the inside tire (read travel at a higher speed, as the lock-right clicks away) and there would be no problems.
2. 4 hi operation on a snowy road, you turn, and slip. Lock-right kicks in, front wheels turn the same speed since the lock-right is doing it's job. The ESP reads it as wheel slippage from the front inside tire and applies braking pressure to this wheel. Since the lock-right is engaged, I think it will have the effect of braking both front wheels, but never solving the problem that it thinks it has since the lock-right will hold the rotation the same speed. The braking would continue until the turn is over and the front and rear wheels are traveling the same speed. Does this sound right? Can the ESP be turned off when traveling in 4 hi?
3. 4 lo operation would be similar to 4 hi, but I understand that ESP can be turned off (right?) which would solve the problem.
Does all of this sound right?
BLD - in a normal situation, the wheel speed is monitered and the brake is applied to the slipping (going too fast) wheel, and for the fronts, the turing radius has to be taken into account since the wheels naturally travel at different speeds during a turn.
Enter a lock-right:
1. Normal full traction situations, the outside front tire will over-run the inside tire (read travel at a higher speed, as the lock-right clicks away) and there would be no problems.
2. 4 hi operation on a snowy road, you turn, and slip. Lock-right kicks in, front wheels turn the same speed since the lock-right is doing it's job. The ESP reads it as wheel slippage from the front inside tire and applies braking pressure to this wheel. Since the lock-right is engaged, I think it will have the effect of braking both front wheels, but never solving the problem that it thinks it has since the lock-right will hold the rotation the same speed. The braking would continue until the turn is over and the front and rear wheels are traveling the same speed. Does this sound right? Can the ESP be turned off when traveling in 4 hi?
3. 4 lo operation would be similar to 4 hi, but I understand that ESP can be turned off (right?) which would solve the problem.
Does all of this sound right?
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Williamsburg, Va
Ok, let me test the logic here:
BLD - in a normal situation, the wheel speed is monitered and the brake is applied to the slipping (going too fast) wheel, and for the fronts, the turing radius has to be taken into account since the wheels naturally travel at different speeds during a turn.
Enter a lock-right:
1. Normal full traction situations, the outside front tire will over-run the inside tire (read travel at a higher speed, as the lock-right clicks away) and there would be no problems.
2. 4 hi operation on a snowy road, you turn, and slip. Lock-right kicks in, front wheels turn the same speed since the lock-right is doing it's job. The ESP reads it as wheel slippage from the front inside tire and applies braking pressure to this wheel. Since the lock-right is engaged, I think it will have the effect of braking both front wheels, but never solving the problem that it thinks it has since the lock-right will hold the rotation the same speed. The braking would continue until the turn is over and the front and rear wheels are traveling the same speed. Does this sound right? Can the ESP be turned off when traveling in 4 hi?
3. 4 lo operation would be similar to 4 hi, but I understand that ESP can be turned off (right?) which would solve the problem.
Does all of this sound right?
BLD - in a normal situation, the wheel speed is monitered and the brake is applied to the slipping (going too fast) wheel, and for the fronts, the turing radius has to be taken into account since the wheels naturally travel at different speeds during a turn.
Enter a lock-right:
1. Normal full traction situations, the outside front tire will over-run the inside tire (read travel at a higher speed, as the lock-right clicks away) and there would be no problems.
2. 4 hi operation on a snowy road, you turn, and slip. Lock-right kicks in, front wheels turn the same speed since the lock-right is doing it's job. The ESP reads it as wheel slippage from the front inside tire and applies braking pressure to this wheel. Since the lock-right is engaged, I think it will have the effect of braking both front wheels, but never solving the problem that it thinks it has since the lock-right will hold the rotation the same speed. The braking would continue until the turn is over and the front and rear wheels are traveling the same speed. Does this sound right? Can the ESP be turned off when traveling in 4 hi?
3. 4 lo operation would be similar to 4 hi, but I understand that ESP can be turned off (right?) which would solve the problem.
Does all of this sound right?
You can disable some portion of it in 2HI . Not sure what it is witout the manual, but the effect is you can spin tires around corners without it cutting power at the engine, like it typically does.
I would go selectable front if you drive on snowy icey roads. It may just be me, but i don't want my offroad mods making things worse for me on road. I make exceptions for bigger tires, since I can plan on increased braking distance. I just dont want to slide off of a slick road due to my locker trying to "help" when I wasn't expecting it.
This is the one area where open diffs do better that one inactive wheel will help maintain some lateral stability when the other is spinning.
