Transfercase+ DS angle help
Ok, got my newly lenghthened frt driveshaft back in today. Still getting the same noise I had before I sent it off. I get a dry bearing, type of noise after 30mph. Thought it was the cv joint so I sent it back to je reel. The noise gets louder as I speed up and it doesn't matter wether it's under load or not( I shift into neutral at speed. ) 4wd dr works fine in high and low. 2wd drive works fine. But I'm getting a scraping, racheting, bolts rattled noise after 30 mph. Could this be the transfer case, output bearing or such? Also, there is no sign of leakage of fluid or such around the flange of the transfer case. And if it were a bearing, wouldn't it make noise from the get go of starting? I'm running 6degrees of caster in the frt on a 4in lift, could this be the cause and maybe the cv joint noise, no vibes , just noise. The noise seems to be iminating from the upper cv, tf case area. HELP!!
I'm having the same problem as you. The noise started after I had my gears installed. I took my jeep to another shop and when they opened up the front diff they said that the gears were set up good but the plunger was not in correctly. After they fixed it the noise was still there but just not as loud.
I took off my front drive shaft before I took it to the second shop and the noise was still there, that's when I knew that is was something with the gears. I also have a good amount of caster but with a 3" lift and I'm running the stock front drive shaft. After I spoke to Tom Woods and e-mailed him the angles on my drive shaft he suggested that I would be best off with a multiple double cardan drive shaft.
I notice the noise more when in the driver seat. When I'm in the passenger seat you don't hear it as much. Is this the same case with you?
I took off my front drive shaft before I took it to the second shop and the noise was still there, that's when I knew that is was something with the gears. I also have a good amount of caster but with a 3" lift and I'm running the stock front drive shaft. After I spoke to Tom Woods and e-mailed him the angles on my drive shaft he suggested that I would be best off with a multiple double cardan drive shaft.
I notice the noise more when in the driver seat. When I'm in the passenger seat you don't hear it as much. Is this the same case with you?
Not the same, noise weny away after pulling DS. Just put it up on 4 jackstands and the noise is coming from the transfer case.
Goin to the dealer tomorrow, maybe the donuts I've been bringin the guys will help as far as my warranty
Goin to the dealer tomorrow, maybe the donuts I've been bringin the guys will help as far as my warranty
Dropped it off, it's gonna be there awhile. Trannyguy wasn't there and they won't be able to get to it for awhile. Didn't sound to good when up on jackstands in 4hi. Like bolts and gears bangin around. 4hi and 4low both worked at slow speed with no noise on the ground. Speeded up on jackstandsand major clunking and clanking. Keepin fingers crossed they'll have some pity on me. It's weird cause in 2wd dr it sounds like a bearing going bad but there is no slop in the output shaft
I really miss locking hubs.
I really miss locking hubs.
Bump, c'mon Redneckjeep, I know your out there, what the hell is wrong with my TF case. Damn thing worked fine until I got my gears installed, coinsidence. Unless they ran some ragged trails testing it and my frt locker.
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If the noise went way after pulling the drive shaft then how could it be the transfer case making the noise??? Drive shaft, Diff, axles, wheels, tires, I would think somethings happening there and the noise is being transfered to the T-case.
Running the Jeep jacked up in 2WD or 4Hi will activate the ESP/Traction control and cause all kinds of normal drivetrain noise as the brakes engage and release. The noise has got to be in your front driveshaft if it goes away when you remove it. I also run a JE Reel in the front and the angle of the joint at the transfer case is pretty steep. I was not happy running lower caster to prevent the noise and vibration so I put on a locking hub kit. I was pleasently suprised to feel a little extra freed up power with the hubs unlocked. I am now thinking about sleeving the front housing and at the same time cutting the C's and rotating them for about 8 degrees of caster while maintaining a perfect driveshaft angle.
Last edited by AELLEN; Apr 8, 2009 at 10:15 AM.


