For $1800, I'll fly out there and put it in for you.....

 

Sounds like national 4wd

 

My shop installed a Rough Country full spring/shock lift for $500 Including the all the parts. You should not need an alignment or new drive lines. It sounds like someone is trying to make a big profit on you.

 

Yeah, I'm going to stay away from that shop for sure. Thanks for all the info. I'll post some pictures as soon as I get my lift and 33's installed. Hopefully this week

 

Sounds like someone's been to Toys for Trucks...?
they tried to get almost 4K$ out of me for a 3" lift....!!!
I said sure, if you toss in a front Dana44 and gears

Dude, if you get the lift, i'll come help you put it in, anytime you want (i'm retired, so weekdays are fine too).

 

WOW $1800?!

Even if they were to replace drivelines, you should still be able to get it for less that that. But with that lift, you do NOT need to replace your driveline. It's amazing that some people are still trying to rip people off like that...

 

Hi ArrowheadRay,

The whole question of to replace driveshafts, or not to replace driveshafts, is debatable either way.

I just installed an OME LT kit purchased from Northridge. I read a lot of posts prior to buying the kit, and I'll admit that the more I read, the less clear the answer to this question became.

I ended up buying new driveshafts. There are a number of reasons that went into my decision:

1. I plan on keeping this JK for a long time. I want to do things right the first time. There may be options (such as adjustable lower control arms) that I will add later; but, I am trying to address all of the potential weak links before I begin wheeling.

2. I don't believe there is an absolute lift height at which the driveshafts need to be replaced. I am no expert; but, from what I have read, driveshaft failure can be caused by too much flex or too much overall lift height. I really don't believe there is any kind of absolute point at which experience proves that anything greater than that point will result in certain failure, and anything less will result in no failures. The flex will cause problems such as the front driveshaft rubbing against the automatic transmission during flex conditions (based upon the terrain). The overall lift height issues will cause problems such as the angle of the pinion in the rear and how it affects the longevity of the driveshaft joints. I believe that with the stock driveshaft in the rear, the pinion angle should be set to match the angle of the driveshaft. (Adjustable control arms can accomplish the pinion angle change; but, I am confused about what I have read that has been posted by others. I'm not sure why the driveshaft in the rear is prone to failure if the pinion angle is set properly in relation to the driveshaft. Does anyone else have experience with this scenario?) Failure of driveshafts will also be affected by how hard the JK is wheeled, the type and severity of direct hits the driveshaft or joints may take while wheeling.

3. Although the driveshafts are expensive, I considered the cost of replacing them in my garage as opposed to repairing them in the field. Bearing in mind the cost of the new driveshafts and related hardware, expedited shipping, towing, labor (if you need to have it done in a shop away from home), extra time (motel and meals) away from home, and maybe not being able to get the particular driveshafts I need in the shortest possible time, I guess I am considering them more of an investment than a mod. I may be off-base to look at it this way; but, I suppose it's a personal perspective.

I don't want to defend, or crucify, the shop that quoted you the price for the install and the included driveshafts. I suppose it's possible that they had a bad experience in the past (maybe being forced to replace a driveshaft that failed after the installation of a modest lift). It might be worth asking the question. (Considering that the driveshafts and installation are probably well over half of their price to you, there must be a good reason for including this. Who knows how many sales they have lost in the past if they quote driveshafts on all their lifts.)

I am not an expert with drivelines, so I hope my comments don't suggest that I am. I have learned a lot from this forum about many different JK subjects. Driveline changes, and what dictates those changes, sure isn't a black-and-white issue. I think the decision to run stock, or replace with custom, is a decision that must be made individually. (Although, more real-life experience posted in messages here would sure help to validate some choices.)

I hope you think my opinions are worth the time it took to read them.

Good luck with your lift. (Installing a lift yourself isn't really too bad if you have the right tools and the right information. The information available from members of the JK-Forum is a great resource.... highly recommended! )

Jeff

 

I just ordered all my stuff today. I finally decided on my set up.

Teraflex 2.5" BB with shocks.
Pro Comp Extreme Alloys - Cast Blast 7089 16x8 4.5 BS wheels.
General Grabber AT2's 285/75/16

All this along with an alignment if needed, swaping the TPMS to the new wheels and centering the steering wheel if needed for $2404.00 installed out the door.

I think I got a pretty good deal on this

Thanks for all the info everyone.

 

I have an Unlimited with a 3" BDS lift, and I am still running the stock drive shafts 20,000 miles later.