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Ultimate D30

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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 10:37 AM
  #1  
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Default Ultimate D30

Lets here what I will need to build up the ultimate front D30.........Please dont suggest getting a D44 or D60 .......just looking for advice on makeing the best out of the D30
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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Chromoly axle shafts and C2 gussets.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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a super 30 kit - 30 spline arb w/30 spline chromo shafts
add evo c2 gussets, lca skids and you'll have a pretty tough dana 30
if you want overkill, add the evo magnum inner sleeves
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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BOOM. Instead of a nice clean, easy to fix u - joint... you just grenaded your ring and pinion.

C'mon folks. Every action has an equal and opposite reaction. If the torque is too much for the u joint, it breaks... if the u joint can withstand the torque then the stress is moved up stream.

There's no such thing as a SUPER 30. Its a 30 with a moved fuse.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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Or you could just keep spare stock axles on hand. Funny thing is, on hear I've seen alot more 44's blow the R&P than 30's.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Sethmark
BOOM. Instead of a nice clean, easy to fix u - joint... you just grenaded your ring and pinion.

C'mon folks. Every action has an equal and opposite reaction. If the torque is too much for the u joint, it breaks... if the u joint can withstand the torque then the stress is moved up stream.

There's no such thing as a SUPER 30. Its a 30 with a moved fuse.
LOL!! i hear ya and i would MUCH rather the break happen outside the axle than in that's for sure. but, assuming he's only gonna run 35's at most and can keep his foot off the skinny pedal, i think you could make this work. at least, i had on my old TJ. however, i have been far from that lucky on my JK even with beefed up 44's. but then, i was pushing 37's
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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I ran 35s on a D30 with Warn Chromos, CTMs, and a Detroit EZ. Its did fine. But I know a lot of folks with the same setup that didn't survive. While a broken shaft is inconvenient, broke carrier is a HUGE headache.

Lets talk about that for a second. Shaft survives, but you grenade a ring and pinion. Axles have to come out, the carrier has to come out, the driveshaft removed, pinion removed, then you gotta figure out if the carrier is still functional. If its still functional, reassemble without front driveshaft or pinion and limp off trail.

If the carrier is damaged, now you have a BIG problem. The driveshaft has to be removed so the pinion doesn't spin. The carrier is removed, and now you have to tear your axle shafts apart so that you can run the stub. Can't leave the shafts assembled, as the inner shaft isn't supported and would flop around. It gotta be stub only. The stub keeps the hub from falling apart.

Big headache. BTDT, suffered for HOURS trying to get off trail.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Sethmark
I ran 35s on a D30 with Warn Chromos, CTMs, and a Detroit EZ. Its did fine. But I know a lot of folks with the same setup that didn't survive. While a broken shaft is inconvenient, broke carrier is a HUGE headache.

Lets talk about that for a second. Shaft survives, but you grenade a ring and pinion. Axles have to come out, the carrier has to come out, the driveshaft removed, pinion removed, then you gotta figure out if the carrier is still functional. If its still functional, reassemble without front driveshaft or pinion and limp off trail.

If the carrier is damaged, now you have a BIG problem. The driveshaft has to be removed so the pinion doesn't spin. The carrier is removed, and now you have to tear your axle shafts apart so that you can run the stub. Can't leave the shafts assembled, as the inner shaft isn't supported and would flop around. It gotta be stub only. The stub keeps the hub from falling apart.

Big headache. BTDT, suffered for HOURS trying to get off trail.
LOL!! been there done that and that's why i'm on prorock 60's now
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Sethmark
I ran 35s on a D30 with Warn Chromos, CTMs, and a Detroit EZ. Its did fine. But I know a lot of folks with the same setup that didn't survive. While a broken shaft is inconvenient, broke carrier is a HUGE headache.

Lets talk about that for a second. Shaft survives, but you grenade a ring and pinion. Axles have to come out, the carrier has to come out, the driveshaft removed, pinion removed, then you gotta figure out if the carrier is still functional. If its still functional, reassemble without front driveshaft or pinion and limp off trail.

If the carrier is damaged, now you have a BIG problem. The driveshaft has to be removed so the pinion doesn't spin. The carrier is removed, and now you have to tear your axle shafts apart so that you can run the stub. Can't leave the shafts assembled, as the inner shaft isn't supported and would flop around. It gotta be stub only. The stub keeps the hub from falling apart.

Big headache. BTDT, suffered for HOURS trying to get off trail.
Such is life off- roading. Any breakage is a headache. Ya play, ya pay, nature of the beast. There is no absolute.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Such is life off- roading. Any breakage is a headache. Ya play, ya pay, nature of the beast. There is no absolute.
that's for sure. if you go easy on the skinny pedal, i'd be willing to bet you'd do just fine and if not, it'll be a lesson learned and an excues to upgrade
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