Ultimate D30
EVO C-gussets
EVO sleeves
Detroit Locker
R&P ratio of your choice
STOCK shafts
Have lots of spares. Rather a shaft break, than R&P, like others said. 35s and easy on the go-pedal. You'll be alright.
PLENTY of rigs in my club are running the CJ, YJ, and TJ D30 with stock shafts and Detroits on 35s and 36s for YEARS. No issues except the occasional busted shaft.
EVO sleeves
Detroit Locker
R&P ratio of your choice
STOCK shafts
Have lots of spares. Rather a shaft break, than R&P, like others said. 35s and easy on the go-pedal. You'll be alright.
PLENTY of rigs in my club are running the CJ, YJ, and TJ D30 with stock shafts and Detroits on 35s and 36s for YEARS. No issues except the occasional busted shaft.
I was thinking to go this route with my D30 too but with all those upgrades, wouldn't I be close to the dollar amount for a Dana 44? By the way, I plan on going to 37's
Much of the what ifs depend on usage. I've lived in Northern California and ran Rubicon all summer with a D30 and 35s. Never broke a thing. Rubicon is mellow on equipment, even though its long and relentless.
Southern California was different. I was at the hammers every weekend from September to May and it ate and spit out every piece of junk equipment ever built. Totally unforgiving.
Here on the east coast, I've run Paragon, Rausch, Crozet and Tellico. Totally different terrain. I broke a LOT more hitting the gas pedal hard in the wet rocks, than I ever did in the dry rock of the hammers. But the wheelin' doesn't compare.
Point being, you have to evaluate how you're using your vehicle. My TJ on 60s, atlas, 700r4 and krawlers was not a good rig in the east. It didn't have a lot of power and couldn't generate any wheelspeed. But it was unstoppable in the big rocks in the west.
If your terrain is such that you're not seeing super high traction like the west or using tons of wheelspeed like the east, and you're a consciencious driver you might be able to keep a 30 alive a while.
But spending $4k on a 30 is absurd. Good money at bad.
Southern California was different. I was at the hammers every weekend from September to May and it ate and spit out every piece of junk equipment ever built. Totally unforgiving.
Here on the east coast, I've run Paragon, Rausch, Crozet and Tellico. Totally different terrain. I broke a LOT more hitting the gas pedal hard in the wet rocks, than I ever did in the dry rock of the hammers. But the wheelin' doesn't compare.
Point being, you have to evaluate how you're using your vehicle. My TJ on 60s, atlas, 700r4 and krawlers was not a good rig in the east. It didn't have a lot of power and couldn't generate any wheelspeed. But it was unstoppable in the big rocks in the west.
If your terrain is such that you're not seeing super high traction like the west or using tons of wheelspeed like the east, and you're a consciencious driver you might be able to keep a 30 alive a while.
But spending $4k on a 30 is absurd. Good money at bad.
I ran 35s on my CJ with an arb locker and 4.56 gears, for about 3 years with no issues
So it looks like gussets and chromoly shafts are the best way to do........im def not going to put a super 30 in at that price......il prob. put in 5.13 and mabe get some trussets for the outside just to be safe
No. Gussets are fine, but if you're going to do gears, shafts, u joints and a locker... you've done a super 30.
Wanna make a great D30? Gussets, if you feel necessary, LockRight, and you're done. Get a set or two of stock shafts and you're golden. If you HAVE to regear, then upgrade the carrier to a full locker (stronger). LET the u joint be the fuse. Its quick and easy to replace.
Wanna make a great D30? Gussets, if you feel necessary, LockRight, and you're done. Get a set or two of stock shafts and you're golden. If you HAVE to regear, then upgrade the carrier to a full locker (stronger). LET the u joint be the fuse. Its quick and easy to replace.





Funny thing is, on hear I've seen alot more 44's blow the R&P than 30's.