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Ultimate D30

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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #11  
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EVO C-gussets
EVO sleeves
Detroit Locker
R&P ratio of your choice
STOCK shafts

Have lots of spares. Rather a shaft break, than R&P, like others said. 35s and easy on the go-pedal. You'll be alright.

PLENTY of rigs in my club are running the CJ, YJ, and TJ D30 with stock shafts and Detroits on 35s and 36s for YEARS. No issues except the occasional busted shaft.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 02:32 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by gutter21
Lets here what I will need to build up the ultimate front D30.........Please dont suggest getting a D44 or D60 .......just looking for advice on makeing the best out of the D30
Get a dana 44 or a dana 60.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
a super 30 kit - 30 spline arb w/30 spline chromo shafts
add evo c2 gussets, lca skids and you'll have a pretty tough dana 30
if you want overkill, add the evo magnum inner sleeves
I was thinking to go this route with my D30 too but with all those upgrades, wouldn't I be close to the dollar amount for a Dana 44? By the way, I plan on going to 37's
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 05:06 PM
  #14  
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Much of the what ifs depend on usage. I've lived in Northern California and ran Rubicon all summer with a D30 and 35s. Never broke a thing. Rubicon is mellow on equipment, even though its long and relentless.

Southern California was different. I was at the hammers every weekend from September to May and it ate and spit out every piece of junk equipment ever built. Totally unforgiving.

Here on the east coast, I've run Paragon, Rausch, Crozet and Tellico. Totally different terrain. I broke a LOT more hitting the gas pedal hard in the wet rocks, than I ever did in the dry rock of the hammers. But the wheelin' doesn't compare.

Point being, you have to evaluate how you're using your vehicle. My TJ on 60s, atlas, 700r4 and krawlers was not a good rig in the east. It didn't have a lot of power and couldn't generate any wheelspeed. But it was unstoppable in the big rocks in the west.

If your terrain is such that you're not seeing super high traction like the west or using tons of wheelspeed like the east, and you're a consciencious driver you might be able to keep a 30 alive a while.

But spending $4k on a 30 is absurd. Good money at bad.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Or you could just keep spare stock axles on hand. Funny thing is, on hear I've seen alot more 44's blow the R&P than 30's.
X2, I have seen & heard of alot more D44 fronts breaking than D30s I ran 35s on my CJ with an arb locker and 4.56 gears, for about 3 years with no issues
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 04:32 AM
  #16  
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So it looks like gussets and chromoly shafts are the best way to do........im def not going to put a super 30 in at that price......il prob. put in 5.13 and mabe get some trussets for the outside just to be safe
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 05:01 AM
  #17  
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No. Gussets are fine, but if you're going to do gears, shafts, u joints and a locker... you've done a super 30.

Wanna make a great D30? Gussets, if you feel necessary, LockRight, and you're done. Get a set or two of stock shafts and you're golden. If you HAVE to regear, then upgrade the carrier to a full locker (stronger). LET the u joint be the fuse. Its quick and easy to replace.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 05:10 AM
  #18  
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What about sleeves......worth the money ?
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 05:37 AM
  #19  
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Depends on usage. If you're not paying someone to install, they'r echeap insurance.
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