To the OP you have some good advice above. I would add to check out the few good you tube how to videos, and threads here. Take into account your current situation and be honest with your self.

I was in the same boat last year due to time or lack there of had my local shop do the work, and would recommend Synergy ball joints.

You do need to be a bit careful reinstalling the axle shafts as you don't want to damage the seals and end up with a leak. That is what happened to me...however the guys at my local shop are stand up guys...they warranty their work and took care of it.

Good luck

 

I didnt read all of the replies, but I did install my own Synergy joints on my own a week or two ago.
It was a bit of a pain, thats fur sure, but it was doable. The biggest thing is to take your time and make sure you are pressing them in straight. The top two are tricky because the C is angled a bit and it makes the BJ want to go in crooked.

Main things you will need is a torque wrench (150ft lb one is good), the clamp/press tool, and a SOLID breaker bar. The one I had was probably 18-24" and I still had to put all of my weight into it when pressing the joints in.


It took my two nights to get it done, but knowing what I do now I could probably do it in under a few hours. I also replaced my tie rod and drag link while I was at it

 

I just did mine on my dodge diesel pickup and those were challenging.
Gonna do the Jeep soon as it gets above freezing...

Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum

 

Thanks guys! I am waiting for the parts to come in, and then I decided I am gonna use a buddies garage because he has a nice set of tools so I think I will be better off in the long run! The company won't hurt either......Ill report back and let you know how it goes!

 

You'll be glad you did it your self! Saves a lot of money and also you get to know your front end components Better

 

Ok started this project today and I have a couple of questions......

1. When I am putting on the knuckle, it goes on and then I try to tighten it down with the nuts that came with the ball joints. When you do this to the top ball joint it turns! As the nut goes on the upper ball joint starts to turn. My question is how do you keep it from turning to get the nut tightened down onto the ball joint??

2. When I took out the axel spines they came out fine, but I was warned about breaking a gasket?? When I look down into the axel I can see there is a slime looking circle that is turned within the axel? It looks like a washer laying sideways within the axel. What is this? My thinking was that I can take off the differential cover before I re-install the axel spines to ensure that they go in properly and nothing gets broke. Should I do this?? and If I do is there going to be another piece that I have to replace to ensure my differentials are tightly sealed if I break them loose??

Thanks Guys, Really wanted to get this finished my tomorrow...oh also, I broke 3 wheel studs taking off my tires. WTF! haha, easy fix, just frustrating!

 

The thing that looks like a washer lying sideways is the plastic disc that should be on the axle shaft near the smooth surface at the inner end. It ensures the axle shaft is at the correct height to go into the seal without damaging the seal.

 

1. Did you replace with oem ball joints? I has no problem tightening mine down but I did synergy joints.



2. The circle thing should be guides. They stay on the shaft to help guide the axle down the tube. Could be that. Take a coat hanger or glow rod with hook and fish it out to make sure. Little plastic ring.

 

1. Replaced them with synergy. The only thing I am thinking is that I need to tighten the bottom one down first and then try the top one.

2. Once I fish it out, should I just stick it back onto the axel shaft and slide it back in? Am I gonna have to force anything throughout this process or will it just slide in easily? Sorry, I just don't wanna damage the axel seals and end up with more problems.

 

The little plastic washer can easily be removed as mentioned above. When reinstalling the shaft just be very gentle as you approach the seal and slowly push down on the u-joint as you twist the shaft. This will help the splines line up and also raise the inner end of the shaft to safely make it past the seal.

Don't worry about the stud on the upper ball joint spinning. Just make sure the ball joint is properly seated. Once the full weight of the vehicle is on the knuckle the stud will tighten up and you'll be able to tighten the nut. Just make sure you follow the torque specs.

You'll will love the new ride. Next to gears, synergy ball joints are my 2nd favorite mod/upgrade.