Upper and lower control arm brackets
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Upper and lower control arm brackets
Looking for any opinions on upper and lower control arm brackets, was probably going to go withe the rancho 1 piece upper/lower bracket they have both adjustable and non adjustable brackets, any opinions on that or tips for install? Also tools needed just a wrench/ratchet set? I have a 2014 JKU 3in trailmaster lift on 33in iron man MTs
#2
JK Jedi
The Rancho 1-piece brackets are nice....and although cost a bit more than the 2-piece options....worth it IMO. Whatever brackets you go with, make sure they offer multiple mounting holes so you have a few options when it comes to setting caster. If you don't have one, get a torque wrench as you'll be getting a lot of use out of one. 2" breaker bars come in really handy too if you don't have one.....as does even a cheap electric impact. The cheap Harbor Freight one makes like a bit easier. Every now and then run across a bolt have to use breaker bar on first.....but the cheapo impact def beats hand tools. Jack stands and a decent jack.
The following users liked this post:
Ryan_AustinJKU (05-09-2018)
#4
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,465
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
As noted, Harbor Freight is a good place to shop. No idea how accurate it is compared to any other torque wrenches, but seems to work fine for me. Good price on tall jack stands there as well. Watch for coupons or join the mailing list.
Last edited by nthinuf; 05-09-2018 at 08:04 PM.
#5
Super Moderator
You can buy a $20 HF wrench with a lifetime warranty or you can buy the Craftsman for $40 and a 1 year warranty. I bought both
#6
JK Jedi
Yeah, I would buy a torque wrench new....which ever you choose. I bought Kobalt from Lowes for ~$90 (50 - 200ft lbs). They have a lifetime no questions asked replacement policy, there's nothing wrong with HF or Craftsman. For suspension things you don't need a pricey Mac or SnapOn wrench. Something that gets to 150 ft lbs at a bare minimum cuz your TB and most control arm bolts (cept for the front uppers) are 125 ft lbs. I have a 3/8" 20-100ft lbs as well......and it rarely if ever gets used.
Cheap 2' breaker bars come in handy for leverage often.
Look for things on Craigslist around town too. Stuff doesn't have to be new. I snagged the cheap $40-50 HF electric impact on CL for $15....I can't tell you how much I use that vs. pneumatic....so much easier and convenient. Jack stands are cheap on CL as well. Another thing that I use all the time is set of ratcheting box wrenches (metric) if you don't have any. Dang convenient to have. And a decent size crescent wrench as well.
Cheap 2' breaker bars come in handy for leverage often.
Look for things on Craigslist around town too. Stuff doesn't have to be new. I snagged the cheap $40-50 HF electric impact on CL for $15....I can't tell you how much I use that vs. pneumatic....so much easier and convenient. Jack stands are cheap on CL as well. Another thing that I use all the time is set of ratcheting box wrenches (metric) if you don't have any. Dang convenient to have. And a decent size crescent wrench as well.
The following users liked this post:
Ryan_AustinJKU (05-13-2018)
#7
Super Moderator
I did a bit of research on torque wrenches a few years ago. I ended up purchasing a Craftsman based on that research (couldn't afford a Tekton or Snap-on).
The HF wrenches do 'relax' over time and so they will be around 4 lbs light when they settle out. The Craftsman will settle out within 1 lb. The Tekton and Snap-on stayed very accurate. The article I read pointed out that the most important thing you can do is return the wrench to it's lowest setting before you store it. This takes the tension off the springs.
This link does a review, but it's not nearly as comprehensive as the one I had read a couple years ago (can't find it). - Torque Wrench Testing - Shop Tools - Hot Rod Network
The HF wrenches do 'relax' over time and so they will be around 4 lbs light when they settle out. The Craftsman will settle out within 1 lb. The Tekton and Snap-on stayed very accurate. The article I read pointed out that the most important thing you can do is return the wrench to it's lowest setting before you store it. This takes the tension off the springs.
This link does a review, but it's not nearly as comprehensive as the one I had read a couple years ago (can't find it). - Torque Wrench Testing - Shop Tools - Hot Rod Network
The following users liked this post:
Ryan_AustinJKU (05-13-2018)
Trending Topics
#8
I agree on the Rancho geometry correction brackets. Probably the best mod I've done to our JKU.
I also agree that Harbor Freight tools are a great value for the weekend mechanic.
I also agree that Harbor Freight tools are a great value for the weekend mechanic.
The following 2 users liked this post by Wandell:
Rancho (05-11-2018),
Ryan_AustinJKU (05-13-2018)
#10
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,465
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
Scenario 1: Add a lift. Caster is low, causing flighty steering. Add arms -or- brackets to raise caster. Is it a drastic change from low caster? Depends on height and personal opinion. But yes, it can be a drastic change, especially for taller lifts.
Scenario 2: Add a lift. You already have corrected caster due to adj arms. Remove the adj arms and go back to stock (or readjust them), and add brackets. Caster is still corrected, same as with the arms, but the angles of the arms are also better. Drastic improvement? No, the caster is about the same in both cases, up near stock. But the handling/feel is better because the brackets also correct for the post-lift steeper angles on the arms.
Last edited by nthinuf; 05-14-2018 at 02:29 PM.