Vague Steering
Hey...aren't you the same guy that said 5 degrees was the minimum caster to run for a 3 inch lift...and that the only way to get it was with lower control arms?
I guess all those people running Clayton front upper control arms to set the caster on their lifts had better go out and get some lower arms, eh?

Where do you get these ideas?
Most people here will agree that cam bolts are a bad idea because they tend to loosen off during off-road use...but that doesn't mean that they are not able to achieve reasonable caster settings. There is no reason at all that a set of cam bolts cannot provide caster in the 5 to 6 degree range on a 3 inch lift.
Open this link, read down to step #9...then refer to step #22.
http://www.aev-conversions.com/pdf/isheets/AEV-Nth_JK_Std_Susp_Instructions_A.pdf
AEV (one of the few companies that recommends cam bolts) very specifically indicates in their install directions that cam bolts in the lower control arm mounts at the maximum rearward setting will provide caster between 5 and 7 degrees with a 3.5 inch lift.
Please don't fill the OP's head with misinformation. There are a lot of helpful suggestions in this thread...but telling the OP that his cam bolts are the problem is not constructive. If his caster was set too low, it would result in flighty steering and the wheels would not tend to return to center as they are supposed to...it would not result in excessive play before he started to see results from a steering input.
To the OP...check for any play in your pitman arm, drag link, or tie rod. It's probably not a bad idea to torque all of the bolts on your suspension. That may not fix this problem, but it's a good habit to get into...it can save you a lot of grief.
Perhaps consider removing the drop pitman arm. Also understand that any modifications that make your front track bar and your drag link run at angles that are not parallel will have an adverse effect on your steering.
I guess all those people running Clayton front upper control arms to set the caster on their lifts had better go out and get some lower arms, eh?
Where do you get these ideas?
Most people here will agree that cam bolts are a bad idea because they tend to loosen off during off-road use...but that doesn't mean that they are not able to achieve reasonable caster settings. There is no reason at all that a set of cam bolts cannot provide caster in the 5 to 6 degree range on a 3 inch lift.
Open this link, read down to step #9...then refer to step #22.
http://www.aev-conversions.com/pdf/isheets/AEV-Nth_JK_Std_Susp_Instructions_A.pdf
AEV (one of the few companies that recommends cam bolts) very specifically indicates in their install directions that cam bolts in the lower control arm mounts at the maximum rearward setting will provide caster between 5 and 7 degrees with a 3.5 inch lift.
Please don't fill the OP's head with misinformation. There are a lot of helpful suggestions in this thread...but telling the OP that his cam bolts are the problem is not constructive. If his caster was set too low, it would result in flighty steering and the wheels would not tend to return to center as they are supposed to...it would not result in excessive play before he started to see results from a steering input.
To the OP...check for any play in your pitman arm, drag link, or tie rod. It's probably not a bad idea to torque all of the bolts on your suspension. That may not fix this problem, but it's a good habit to get into...it can save you a lot of grief.
Perhaps consider removing the drop pitman arm. Also understand that any modifications that make your front track bar and your drag link run at angles that are not parallel will have an adverse effect on your steering.
I did a 3" coil and shock lift on my 2dr X. I have been having the same problems, exactly what you explained. I realized my sway bar was adjusted a little too high with my adjustable end links. I lowered them and it seems to be driving fine now. I was also told to make sure the track bars are tight, 135 ft/lbs.


