Value in a 2 Inch Lift
#11
JK Jedi
I am just using an extreme to make to point. If lift height = performance then lots of lift should be even better, but its not. Tires, lockers and proper gearing increase performance. Lifts are just an afterthought to make room for the bigger tires.I guess lifting does help with approach, decline, and break over angles if those things are a problem off road.
#12
JK Jedi
I am just using an extreme to make to point. If lift height = performance then lots of lift should be even better, but its not. Tires, lockers and proper gearing increase performance. Lifts are just an afterthought to make room for the bigger tires.I guess lifting does help with approach, decline, and break over angles if those things are a problem off road.
#13
JK Jedi
I can see if you do your homework and do it right with quality components and do your proper tuning and relocate mounts where you need to. But the OP is talking a cheap lift with cheap shocks and poor geometry. Off road this really is not going to gain anything.
#14
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Sorry I have to revive this thread but I have a question about rear sway bar end link sizes now. So I lifted my jeep (basically a 1 year anniversary gift) and its just over 2.75in higher. Everything went well except for one part, the extended rear sway bar end links.... I put them on the rear exactly how stock links are installed and noticed they rub the tire on the drivers side and are hair's distance away on the passenger side. (I have OWM 16in rims that Sports came with BTW). I attempted to flip them and install inboard but this made me even more confused about the geometry for the sway bar because it made the positive angle even more obvious. It also looks pretty close to being under the frame so if the coils compress the frame could come down on top of the end link.
End link -13in long in total and 12in from bolt to eyelet. It seems like its too long for just a 2.5in lift. What would the standard length for an extended rear end link be for the amount of lift I got? Would a shorter length prevent tire rubbing?
It rub about a quarter inch above the rim.
Thanks you guys for your time
End link -13in long in total and 12in from bolt to eyelet. It seems like its too long for just a 2.5in lift. What would the standard length for an extended rear end link be for the amount of lift I got? Would a shorter length prevent tire rubbing?
It rub about a quarter inch above the rim.
Thanks you guys for your time
#15
Super Moderator
What size are your tires? It sounds like you went with larger/wider tires and are still using stock wheels which have 6.5in back spacing. If that is the case, then you either want to purchase a set of wheel spacers, 1.5in spacers are pretty common or purchase new wheels with proper back spacing. If you're running 35s, then 4.5 to 5.2in of back space is pretty typical for 35s. Around 3.5in B.S. for 37s.
#16
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I have 265/75/R16 ATs, so about 30in when I've taken measuring tape to them. Any cons to using wheel spacers? I do plan on going up when the money is right but haven't chosen between 33 or 35 (if I can even find them for R16)
#17
JK Jedi
If you think you're going up to a 35, or even a 33 really, you probably want a 17" wheel, with 4.5" BS as Rednroll already highlighted. Spacers should solve your issue in the short term by moving the tire a bit further out. I'd look for a quality spacer though, not an ebay special. That rear sway bar is pretty flexy.....it's definitely not as rigid as the front one is. If you had way more room on one side vs. the other, an adjustable rear TB would help shift that axle, but it doesn't sound like you have much clearance on the other side either. In regards to lengths, sway links and sway bar angles aren't an exact science. You're just targeting flat to up a couple degrees.
One thing to pay attention to if you offroad, is the direction you insert the bolt through the link/sway bar. If you ever off road, sometimes the bolt extends too far (or sometimes even the nut) towards the frame....and when the link travels upward, it can snag and pull your hard brake line down, forming a nice "V" in your brake line.....which is obviously not great if it causes a crimp. Just pay attention to the direction you insert the bolt....usually insert from the frame side towards the tire is best. Also, I use heavy zip ties and make sure the brake line is as snug to the frame as possible. I realize that isn't what you're asking here....but just highlighting.
One thing to pay attention to if you offroad, is the direction you insert the bolt through the link/sway bar. If you ever off road, sometimes the bolt extends too far (or sometimes even the nut) towards the frame....and when the link travels upward, it can snag and pull your hard brake line down, forming a nice "V" in your brake line.....which is obviously not great if it causes a crimp. Just pay attention to the direction you insert the bolt....usually insert from the frame side towards the tire is best. Also, I use heavy zip ties and make sure the brake line is as snug to the frame as possible. I realize that isn't what you're asking here....but just highlighting.
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SporticonJKU (10-02-2018)