Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

What do I need to run 37s

Thread Tools
 
Old Sep 1, 2018 | 11:12 PM
  #1  
Namffohnoj's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Veteran: Air Force
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Clairton Pennsylvania
Default What do I need to run 37s

i have a 2015 ultimate rubicon with a teraflex 4inch all 8 adjustable control arms falcon shocks and adjustable front and rear track bars, I plan on running 37s mostly because I like the look (it’s my dd)
I have been thinking about going to 40’s in the next year or so but that’s not set in stone. I just don’t know what my best option would be to make this happen sooner than later,
I want to do everything that needs done first and if some things can wait a few months I’ll just wait.
Also I’m not sure what gears to go with I have Dana 44 front and rear with 4.10, I was thinking maybe a 5.13 or 5.38?

Last edited by Namffohnoj; Feb 11, 2022 at 08:19 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 2, 2018 | 03:44 AM
  #2  
resharp001's Avatar
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
10 Year Member
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Default

If you don't have some already, 3.5" BS wheels. All front steering components should be upgraded if not already. You should get familiar with ball joint options if not already. May or may not need to trim more pinch seam in the rear, and depending on where your rear axle currently sits, might want to push that further back just a bit more since you have adjustable rears. That could cause interference with rear sway bar, and moving that back will probably cause interference with your muffler.

Regearing will be the biggest thing. 4.10s will get old with 37s. Since you have a rubicon TC, you should really look at 4.88s. I have 5.13s in my non-rubi 3.6L, and it's a bit aggressive for most. Cruising 3000 rpm on the interstate is not ideal. Mine is not a DD, so I deal with it for the offroad aspect of the gearing. I've been on 37s for 3 years, and I wheel pretty decent. IMO, Rubi 44s are a ticking time bomb with 40s.
Reply
Old Sep 2, 2018 | 03:54 AM
  #3  
karls10jk's Avatar
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 486
From: Knoxville
Default

Brakes need to be upgraded, especially since it's the DD. With wanting to do 40's and thinking you'll still daily it, you should be looking at one of the brake kits that increase rotor diameter or better yet, add more pistons to the caliper. Safety first.
Reply
Old Sep 2, 2018 | 06:31 AM
  #4  
TheDirtman's Avatar
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
Default

$10,000 you are willing to throw away for the 37's, double that for the 40's. don't worry about a big brake kits, the new heavy duty WIDER axle should come with big brakes.

Last edited by TheDirtman; Sep 2, 2018 at 06:34 AM.
Reply
Old Sep 2, 2018 | 03:25 PM
  #5  
Namffohnoj's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Veteran: Air Force
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Clairton Pennsylvania
Default Thannks

Originally Posted by resharp001
If you don't have some already, 3.5" BS wheels. All front steering components should be upgraded if not already. You should get familiar with ball joint options if not already. May or may not need to trim more pinch seam in the rear, and depending on where your rear axle currently sits, might want to push that further back just a bit more since you have adjustable rears. That could cause interference with rear sway bar, and moving that back will probably cause interference with your muffler.

Regearing will be the biggest thing. 4.10s will get old with 37s. Since you have a rubicon TC, you should really look at 4.88s. I have 5.13s in my non-rubi 3.6L, and it's a bit aggressive for most. Cruising 3000 rpm on the interstate is not ideal. Mine is not a DD, so I deal with it for the offroad aspect of the gearing. I've been on 37s for 3 years, and I wheel pretty decent. IMO, Rubi 44s are a ticking time bomb with 40s.

ok awesome I am going to supercharge it so don you think the 5.13s would be alright? Also what do you suggest for what brand gears I should get and also any suggestions on axel trusses or c gussets
Reply
Old Sep 3, 2018 | 07:12 PM
  #6  
resharp001's Avatar
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
10 Year Member
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Default

From someone who built up Rubi 44 front axle, I'd say this......if you're doing the work yourself, it can make sense. If you're paying someone to weld all that on, then regear et al, it starts to make less sense. If you're adding more HP, you might want to consider Dirtman's suggestion of going to larger full width axles that are going to support that a bit better in handling the power and bring it to a stop with more significant brakes.

If you do decide to add truss and gussets to the axle, you may as well chop off the LCA and shock brackets and add new 1/4" brackets for those.....and the problem you will run in to (as I did) is that with the lower gussets installed, you can't outboard your shock mount enough cuz the gusset gets in the way. Maybe that wouldn't be as big of an issue if you felt the RSE inner gussets were enough, but all of the outer type gussets will eat up space on the axle tube. I have the artec truss, gussets, TB, LCA, and shock brackets (outboarded even more with modified Metalcloak relocates). I know a few people with the Evo truss etc and are happy.

You'll also need new rear axle shafts as the factory flanges gonna bend fast with 37s or larger, and if you thing you're going to ever be crawlin round on rocks and using your lockers, I wouldn't be surprised if the Rubi locker starts giving you issues. You really may want to put some serious thought in to some full width axles before setting down this path. I've run a build like you're thinking for several years now, but the biggest difference is I'm putzing around on ole 285HP engine.
Reply
Old Sep 3, 2018 | 08:50 PM
  #7  
TheTank's Avatar
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Houston Tx
Default

What's up... I've been running 38s for about a year now on my 07 4 door Rubicon. Yes, I have a Dana 44 on the front axle plans are to atleast have C gussets and sleeves put on soon. I have regeared from 4.10s to 5.38's, Adjustable control arms, HD Terra flex Tie Rod and Drag link, Flashpaq super chip, and HD Ball joints, and Fox ATS Stabilizer. It's not my DD and I don't do any major wheeling. I agree with the other post about regarding. It was a MAJOR upgrade as now I can do 60mph at 2k RPM where as before I was AROUND 27-3k RPM at the same speed. That's pretty much all I've done so far so good. Oh and G2 gears have worked fine for me no problems! Hope this helps
Reply
Old Sep 4, 2018 | 05:19 AM
  #8  
resharp001's Avatar
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
10 Year Member
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Default

Originally Posted by TheTank
I have regeared from 4.10s to 5.38's
Originally Posted by TheTank
It was a MAJOR upgrade as now I can do 60mph at 2k RPM where as before I was AROUND 27-3k RPM at the same speed
I think there is more to this comment than meets the eye, cuz RPMs don't drop when you regear lower, they go up (assuming tire size stays constant). I'm confused as you've been running 38s for a year, but the regear was fairly recent (in June you had 1k miles on the gears).
Reply
Old Sep 4, 2018 | 06:11 AM
  #9  
BoraBora's Avatar
JK Freak
 
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 712
Likes: 67
From: McLean, VA
Default

Originally Posted by TheTank
What's up... I've been running 38s for about a year now on my 07 4 door Rubicon. Yes, I have a Dana 44 on the front axle plans are to atleast have C gussets and sleeves put on soon. I have regeared from 4.10s to 5.38's, Adjustable control arms, HD Terra flex Tie Rod and Drag link, Flashpaq super chip, and HD Ball joints, and Fox ATS Stabilizer. It's not my DD and I don't do any major wheeling. I agree with the other post about regarding. It was a MAJOR upgrade as now I can do 60mph at 2k RPM where as before I was AROUND 27-3k RPM at the same speed. That's pretty much all I've done so far so good. Oh and G2 gears have worked fine for me no problems! Hope this helps
Sleeves are useless. Skip and just truss and gusset.
Reply
Old Sep 4, 2018 | 09:48 AM
  #10  
hivoltagedriver's Avatar
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 148
Likes: 43
From: SKIATOOK, OK
Default

Decide now if you want 37s or 40s, and build for it. Don't throw away money upgrading the Dana 44s for 37s, and then decide you want 40s later. I just went through this same decision on my 2017. Decided on 1-tons and 40s and love it. I do DD mine, but I spent the money in all the right places so it still drive, stops, and handles well. At 80mph with 40s and 5.13s, I'm turning exactly 3000rpm.
Reply




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:03 AM.