I have a 2007 Rubicon Unlimited with a 4.5" lift and 37" tires. I am debating whether or not to upgrade the axle shafts. One factor I need to take into account is what happens if I do snap an axle shaft on the trail. Is there a "limp home" or "limp off the trail" mode? If I snap a rear shaft, can I pull it out, use a magnet to pull out the broken piece(s) and re-install the broken shaft, knowing it won't engage the locker any longer. I realize I would have no power to that wheel, but will that work as a way to get back to the road? I know the non-rubicon Tjs would not allow you to do that, as I helped a guy with a broken axle on the trail. But what about the Rubicon JK? What about a broken front axle shaft - would the same thing work? Pull out the broken shaft, remove the broken bits and re-install the remainder of the shaft? Again, no power to that wheel, but can I limp out that way?

If anyone has some expertise or can point me to an article/thread I would really appreciate it. thanks

 

Not exactly what you asked for, but here are some threads that might show some light on your question:

ront
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/installing-alloy-usa-factory-ten-cm-front-axles-ctm-u-joints-72971/

rear
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/installing-superior-cm-rear-axles-72925/

 

Your best bet for a broken rear axle shaft is to have a spare ready to go with bearing & retaining ring, seal, retaining plate.

 

Yep, and the bearing has to be pressed on, so don't just have the pieces.

 

I have a "little" expertise in this area since I broke a front and rear axle in my JK. I was going up High Dive in Moab when I broke them. I got up on my winch and was able to drive to town which was about 24 miles.

The trick is that in order to move with a broken axle you have to have lockers and lock up at least one axle. Since I have a Rubi that meant being in 4Lo and locking the rear locker. After I got of the trail I drove into town at about 25 mph going down the shoulder. With ARB's or some other locker that doesn't require you to be in 4Lo it would have been even easier as I could have been in Hi Range.

The rear axle is not retained by a Clip but is retained by a retaining collar that has to be pressed on. When I had the collar pressed on my replacement axle it pretty much maxed out a 30 ton press to seat it. I have not heard of a JK having a wheel depart due to an axle problem.

There was no issue with the front axle because of the unit bushing. As far as trail replacements they are something you may be able to do if you can get the broken stub out. I could pull my rear out with a magnet but not the front (that required pulling the carrier, etc). Also for some reason Jeep set the Rubi up to use two different length of shafts in the rear so you would need to carry both a left and a right. In addition it will be flat IMPOSSIBLE to swap parts fom one axle to the other in the field. You will have to have your spare axle(s) dressed with tone ring, bearing, seal, retaining plate and bearing retaining collar ahead of time. A non Rubi would only need one shaft as both are the same length.

Having an axle break on a JK is not the problem it was on a TJ.

 

Thanks to everyone for the information. Part of the "problem" for the rear shafts is that the ABS tone rings are not available from Jeep. So you have to transfer them from the stock axle, rendering the stock axle no longer a field swapable spare. I have talked to David at Northridge and he is very helpful. He can supply new rear shafts ready to go on, but they are pricey. I hear conflicting information. Some people say the factory shafts are strong enough, others, well the opposite. I thought I would give them a shot and see. Sounds like the fronts are not a big deal. I will check out the threads and see what I am up against for the rears. thanks again!

 

Better to upgrade now than kick your self later on the trail when they break.

 

This happened to me on the beach while stuck in some thick gooy crap mud.....
I heard a strange clink clank clunk sort of thing while driving home and saw this...




I realized then my right front axle stub shaft had broken and no wonder why i only had rear wheel drive.

Being these were AlloyUSA Cromolly shaft thast i baught from Dave @ Northridge that i had better goback there and see what we can due......




I have also driven many miles on just 1 front shaft in the front as last summer @ Trail Jamb i had a u-joint go bad and we drove 25 miles to Yakama Drive line to see what could be done.
We had removed the broken axle and stuff the tube with a plastic bag with a rag in it to keep the oil in.

 

thanks. Good tip on the plastic bag and rag trick. Did Alloy USA replace the front shaft? Any hassles??

 

The best thing to do is get the new axles fully dressed and leave your stock axles intact with all the stuff on them. That way it is an easy swap. Davids axles may seem pricey BUT before you say that price out what a machine shop will charge you to strip your old axle and install your old stuff on your new axle. It was cheaper to buy the dressed axle from David and it left the stockers intact.

I don't know wheter Jeep has the tone rings available or not. I do know that David has them.

As to how strong the stock axles are all I can say is that Steve at Moab 4x4 Outpost (not my favorite person by the way) says he sees a lot of broken JK axles. He had a pallet of them sitting there for the start of EJS. My favorite breakdown is the one I prevent in my driveway before it happens. Which is why I find the arguemnet over stock driveshafts foolish. It's not if they will go; it's when. If you lift the thiing put real driveshafts under it. Either that or Murphy will raise his ugly head and Murphy along does that at the worst possible time.

So make your own choice; you know how you wheel and what your envelope is. I tend to push the envelope. I'm not abusive or heavy on the skinny peddle but I do ask a lot of the Jeep. It's told me it really wants a Rock Jock in the rear as that is the axle that gets loaded during a climb. So I guess my opinion is that the stock axles aren't adequate but that neither are aftermerket CM axle shafts. I really think a 4dr needs a 60 in the rear. Jeep knew and put a 60 under the J8. Shame on them for putting too light an axle under something that can be as heavy as a 3/4 ton PU; none of which have D44 class axles under the rear.