I don't have my Jk yet but im sitting at work wondering what im going to buy for it first when I do get it. I have it planned in stages and I know I want the OREvo Enforcer package and 35/37" tires (can't regear bc of $)...or do I want to get the Poison Spyder brawled life and armor first? I hate the stock tires...but at the same time I hate the stock bumper :/ If only I could win the lotto and do everything at once!! *dreams*

 

Daystar Polyeurathane Hood Hold Downs.

 

Grill mod is a great way to personalize it with almost no cost in the first week.

 

Depending on gearing in it. I have 35's on 4,10 and it was ok after superchips programming but 37's your going to need to regear. My plan of attack was lift then wheels and tires, next up bumper and winch

 

WOW, Too funny

To the OP, make a plan and drive on. Mods are not cheap, you control your destiny. There are lots of things that you can do. I would start with a lift, tires, wheels and gears. Wheels and gears are everything and dont forget a programmer to recalibrate all the stuff you put on for the speedometer and such. Bumpers, winches etc. are second IMHO. If you get a 4 door and want to wheel you will need 37" tires at a minimum. I learned the hard way with the 35" tires

 

Are you getting a two door, or a four door? Is it going to be a Rubi, or a non-Rubi? What are you going to be using it for? Mine is a four door Rubi that I use for backcountry exploring. It now has 1500 miles on the odometer, and 600 of those miles are offroad miles, so although it is not a rock crawler, it is not a pavement pounder either. I spend a lot of time miles away from paved roads, and need reliability and capability.

Here is what I did, and what I plan to still do, in order to run 37" tires.

first mod: Warn M8000 winch ($500); Expedition One Basic DX front bumper ($329), which is one of the smallest, lightest, winch bumpers made for a JK. It weighs two pounds less than the stock plastic bumper.

second mod: Teraflex 2.5" coil spring lift, with adjustable front trackbar and lower control arms ($1700). This is the stage I am at now, and the Jeep drives as good as stock, but is more capable off road. I think it actually looks good with the modest lift and stock Rubi tires. The stock Rubi tires are very good tires for their size by the way.

Next stage: Flat fenders ($500), Poison Spyder rear bumper ($369), 37" tires ($1000 from a friend that changed his mind on tires and sold me his brand new 37s), wheels ($130 x 4 = $520).

Final stage: Re-gear, likely to 5.13:1. ($950)

Total $5868. Ouch, that is the first time I have added it up. But I've already got the tires, so only $1970 left to go. That is do able I suppose.

 

I really want a 4-door but my uncle has a 2 door he may sell me at a price I can't refuse. Wanting to go with the cheapest Jeep possible because I want to add Dana 60s and 40s some day, and the money I save going cheap will go into mods to make it better for me.

At the moment it will be a DD...but my mom lives in Santa Rosa, CA and I'd love to take it rock crawling. Plus, if I had a capable jeep I'd take it on some trails all the time. But in the beginning it will just be a DD.

I'm pretty much set on getting the tires/wheels and suspension first....it's just the most expensive mod on my list I don't see the point in getting something to "hold me over", which is why I want to get what I want the first time, which is either Toyo Open Country MTs or Goodyear MTR w/ Kevlar tires on Spyderlock wheels and the Offroad Evo Enforcer Suspension Package (plan to eventually save for the front/rear double throwdown systems).

Once I regear (and possibly get the Dana 60s), I will go with bigger tires. Right now I'm set on 35s for a 2dr or 37s for a JKU (just worried about regearing costs with the 37s).

So...how long can one go with 37s without having to regear? I guess I could just pull double shifts for two weeks to get the $$ for a regear. How about the axle and 37s? Will a Dana 30 hold up awhile with some sleeves and gussets?

 

If you really want a 4 dr, don't settle for a 2dr. Eventually, you will end up trying to sell the 2dr to get a 4dr and have to start from scratch. Otherwise, planmans build list looks good.

Now if the deal in the 2dr is low enough were you can pay if off fast ad afford to keep it and buy a 4dr later, snatch it up.

 

I like to go armor first. Evap skid, bumpers, engine skid. Mostly stuff you don't see, except the bumpers, but if your going to wheel it protecting things is much cheaper than fixing them. Most guys dump their money into lifts and tires because it's makes the most visual impact. Then they bust things because they go wheeling.

 

What about on a 4 door?

Thanks for all the info guys. You've helped me out a lot! Now plan on regearing to 5.38 for 37" tires...dropping the spyderlocks until a later date....adding evo axle sleeves and gussets...and getting the suspension I want for my first stage build.