DGriz

I will be moving up to 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers soon, but also want to pick up some new wheels at the same time. My dilemma is this: The wheels I like come in either 16x8 or 17x9. As a DD that likes to play in the rocks from time-to-time, I'm worried that a wider rim will get more trail rash than a more narrow one. But I have to go with 16" to do so, and the 315 tire from Nitto is an E rated in that diameter, where it's D rated in the 17" tire.

D rated should ride better on the pavement and flex more on the trail, right?

I'm also trying to decide between a black rim with a machined lip or all black rim. The black will show scars more. The two wheels I'm considering are:


Both are simulated beadlocks (can't afford the real thing right now). How hard is it to touch up scratches on a black wheel?

Give me your thoughts on the wheel width, black vs. machined lip, and D vs E rated sidewalls.

Thanks,

Tooadvanced

The 35x12.5x17 us a e rated unless they changed in last couple months. Thats my only real complaint about my nittos. They've never let me down offroad cept for 4 foot deep ice/snow but little stiff on road. I run 25-26 psi in summer to help but in winter I have to run 35 do to temp changes or tpms goes off. I've got it set as low as can go on 13+ which is 22psi

DGriz

Yes, the 35/12.5/17 is E rated. The 315/70/17 is D rated. The 315/75/16 is E rated. I'm looking at the 315s in either 17 or 16. I'd prefer the 17 but that means I have to choose the wider wheel, which means I might have a better chance at scuffing my new wheels on the trail. I'm just looking for input on how others have dealt with this and if that 1" narrower wheel really makes much difference.

GJeep

1" narrower is 0.5" less chance for scuffing the rim... a bit better than nothing.
More important, with the narrower rim, there's less chance to get a tire off the bead, at the lower psi range when offroading.

Personally, I like the machined lip because it accentuates both the rim and tire, and when scratched, doesn't look as bad as a black lip.

DGriz

I'm kinda leaning that way myself. I guess it really comes down to this:

Do I want 16x8 wheels with E rated tires or 17x9 wheels with D rated tires?

bepperson70

17s are the new 15 they have the biggest available selection and are reasonably priced. 16s seem to be going the way of the 15, the options get fewer and fewer every time look and the prices seem to be creeping up.

GJeep

I, too, would prefer the 17", for the reasons above.

Riding on E-rated would be on the hard side.
I preferred C-rated, but decided to compromise some road softness for the offroad performance and stronger sidewalls of the D-rated 35” (315/70/17) Mickey Thompson MTZ.
Its good overall offroad grip at lower psi comes mainly from the tread, not the sidewall.

Lowering the psi to make an E-rated feel more like C or D on roads, would probably get the pressure below ideal (chalk test) and cause uneven tread wear.

My modded & loaded JKU is about 5,500 lbs overall. 30psi gives even tread wear, and the ride feel is good. Not like C, but good. (Well, that's subjective.)
The E is made for heavier vehicles/loads, and you may dislike its harsher feel on a daily driver.

DGriz

Yeah, that was one of my concerns with an E. I remember the difference going from my stock C rated BFGs to the D rated Falken and it was a noticeably harder ride. I actually double checked the wheel sizes and I was happy to discover that the wheel with the machined lip actually comes in a 17/8.5... problem solved.

GJeep

Well, now that this problem is solved... ...do you have some recovery gear?

DGriz

I never get stuck

Actually, I run with guys that all have winches if needed. My winch is on the wish list, just not at the top yet.