thanks for all the answers you guys rock , and as soon as i can i will buy at least the front control arms , but it doesnt feel bad right now so ill let the funds build instead of putting them on plastic , thanks again

 

Yeah...I think yours turned out to be a real successful "Frankenstein" lift, did it not? You did lots of research. Good for you. I like how yours turned out.

 

Thank you, it did turn out great and i really love it. It even flexed beyond my expectations. I have been running with the flighty steering for 5 months without problems. I broke down and bought the front lower control arms in an effort to give a better review of the drivability of the stock compared to aftermarket. This will allow me to fix the flightyness at the least amount of money.

You dont need new control arms but as was said before they are desirable to bring your jeep back to a effortless steering at highway speeds otherwise you dont notice it.

 

I HAVE MAJOR FIGHTY STEERING AND I'M TIRED OF IT!!! HELP!!!

O.k., I'm running 3"FT Premium (fixed CA's) on 35's.
I know my caster is the problem, but I've been debating on the best way to fix it. Should I get adjustable uppers or lowers? Any advantage to one over the other besides price? What caster angle should I be running with 35's?

TIA, 6

 

Get teraflex front lower adjustable from northridge for 250 shipped. It will fix your problems and it will be the only part you need.

 

If was only going to either the lowers or uppers I'd go with the lowers. If you have a stock driveshaft go for 6 degrees; you will love the way it handles on the road. But stock is 4.2 so anything above that will feel much better than now.

 

Lowers will do the trick, but BOTH uppers and lowers is best? Yes, I still have stock shafts.

 

Having done it the other way, uppers first, I'd say go with the lowers. Gains will be worth the $50+ additional expense for sure.

And I'll have to add that the rear arms will give you more than just adjustability of pinion angle and increased flex. I was really surprised on my 2 door how much better the rear end feels with them. It tracks a lot tighter now, and you get much more feedbasck on what the rear tires are doing both on road and off.

 

My kit, RE 3.5, has adjustable uppers - that works out OK because RE makes the fixed owers 1/4" longer than the stock arms which preserves the wheelbase. With standard length lowers I would not want to then have to shorten the upper arms to bring the caster into the 4-6 degree range. If going to replace only upper or lower arms, leaving the other stock, I'd go with the lower even though it is the more costly of the two.

If I were doing it again I'd go with both upper and lower adjustables because I like to be able to dial things in. And other than RE's solution above it is the only way to avoid shortening your wheelbase; granted it's only 1/4" in front and another 1/4" in back for a total of 1/2".

In the end you pay your money and make your choice. I would buy both Clayton uppers and lowers and you'd have the best and be set. I will grant that that is not the economy solution.

 

After reading though all this (and other posts on the same subject) I've decided to go with a complete set of adjustable uppers and lowers for both front and rear. I've found a low priced set going for any where from $750 - $850 depending on shipping and special discounts.