When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Agree with TheDirtman to get rid of those pimp mobile wheels/tires as they will never be able to air down enough for offroad if you do that. In fact my son's 2106 JKUR has MT MTZ 35" on 15" rims and the ride is superb especially wheeling.
Here are a bunch more I hope they are what you need.
Originally Posted by resharp001
Y, AEV lifts usually have those Bilstein 5100s, but pretty sure their "tuned" Bilsteins have an extra AEV sticker on em. Take some pictures from the front looking straight on so we can see the steering set up (TR, DL, TB, ball joints), and take some pictures of the control arms and where they mount to the axle and frame. In the rear, take a picture further out so we can see the axle and track bar.
Agree with TheDirtman to get rid of those pimp mobile wheels/tires as they will never be able to air down enough for offroad if you do that. In fact my son's 2106 JKUR has MT MTZ 35" on 15" rims and the ride is superb especially wheeling.
Good grief! The jeep has 3 steering stabilizers on it! The drag link, tie rod, and ball joints are all factory. Might keep that in mind with mileage and age. 10yo factory ball joints............surely, SURELY those aren't in great shape with the tires. No bumpstops in the front or rear so keep that in mind if you ever flex that jeep out. Looks like factory control arms which likely means no caster correction, but I can't see the control arm mounts on axle or body to tell if there are cam bolts or control arm brackets. Would need a picture from further out, but y, the steering angle I would guess is pretty sharp (Dirtman suggested a DL flip above).
Hopefully these show it and not a bunch of other things wrong with it. I am not exactly sure where the control arm meets axle.
man, I probably shouldn’t of bought this with all this crap. I have a mechanic looking at it this week. I will say it drives pretty smooth.
Should I go ahead and replace the drag link, tie rod, ball joints?
looking at the DL flip kit, i t looks like I need to know the lift amoun. I measured the spring length per another guy, about 14 inches, per his calculations it’s 4 in lift.
should I take off the stabilizers?
I am a bit over my head on this one.
Originally Posted by resharp001
Good grief! The jeep has 3 steering stabilizers on it! The drag link, tie rod, and ball joints are all factory. Might keep that in mind with mileage and age. 10yo factory ball joints............surely, SURELY those aren't in great shape with the tires. No bumpstops in the front or rear so keep that in mind if you ever flex that jeep out. Looks like factory control arms which likely means no caster correction, but I can't see the control arm mounts on axle or body to tell if there are cam bolts or control arm brackets. Would need a picture from further out, but y, the steering angle I would guess is pretty sharp (Dirtman suggested a DL flip above).
You are, well, where most people land when buying a modified jeep. Most folks don't know what they don't know and the thought process is to buy something already lifted so they can be off and running. Unfortunately, most previous owners didn't do a very good job modifying, so half the battle is trying to figure out what the hell ya got on your hands. Anyhow, it's pretty common so don't feel bad.
I try to stay constructive. I'd remove that dual stabilizer and leave the factory one. I would test those ball joints. You can do this yourself easily. Jack up the front axle so the tires are a couple inches off the ground (i like to support it on jack stands), then put a shovel under the tire and step on the handle, creating upward pressure under the tire. Watch for any movement other than "flexing" where the C and the knuckle meet by the upper ball joint. If you see any kinda up/down movement then those are shot. The tie rod is likely ok, but keep in mind it might need freshened up at some point. 4" is pretty high for a JK, and not really necessary for 35" tires. If it were me, I'd lower that with a decent 2.5" spring. Doing so would help your steering angles (wouldn't need a high-steer kit/DL flip), make getting a good caster easier, and help your front driveshaft. You'd benefit from caster correction.....control arm brackets are not pricey and are effective.
Don't go jumping out the window....it's not that bad.....but, it's better to know than to not know. Again, loose the dual SS cuz that is only potentially covering up issues that should be addressed.
Extreme Terrain is a terrible retailer IMO. They flood the social media so come up in a lot of searches, but they're terrible.
To me, it does appear to be close tot 4" in those first pics, but pics can be deceiving sometimes. I often focus on the space between the tire and the fenders....and there is a lot of space in those pictures, specially considering those factory fenders bend down on the edge.
Most of us would direct you to a 2.5" lift from Metalcloak. You won't find them on most retail sites as they are primarily direct to consumer. They are about the best thing you can buy these days. They run flash sales, typically 10% off and free shipping, so if you have any interest go to their site and sign up for their mailing list. They don't really spam you but you do get those deal alerts via email.
Two ways to move forward IMO. Just buy new kit and install it and move on, or pop new springs under it and over time piece things together. You'd be happier just knocking it out and moving on, but you can get by popping 2.5" springs under it, replacing shocks when needed, correcting caster etc.....
It's a little hard to tell what kinda uptravel you have in those shocks and how long the body is with those boots on. For the pavement, you could probably get by with the shocks just fine for a bit. If you went and really flexed the jeep out your uptravel would be limited to the shock's body and collapsed length. Just one of those things you wouldn't know till you saw how the jeep sits with new springs under it.
BTW, Metalcloak's 2.5" lift would likely net you a little bit more actual lift than that. It's a nice look with 35s and plenty of lift for most wheelin', even in decent sized rocks.
What makes them terrible?
Are the brands they carry cheap? Rugged Ridge and barricade I am looking at a couple things from them.
that lift looks awesome but way more than what I want to spend, I was thinking $500 range some of those just have springs and shocks, a couple other things. Guess I will keep it for now or just replace the springs, get the DL flip link.
03-07-2023, 10:02 AM
The drag link, tie rod, and ball joints are all factory. Might keep that in mind with mileage and age. 10yo factory ball joints........
....surely, SURELY those aren't in great shape with the tires. No bumpstops in the front or rear so keep that in mind if you ever flex that jeep out. Looks like factory control arms which likely means no caster correction, but I can't see the control arm mounts on axle or body to tell if there are cam bolts or control arm brackets. Would need a picture from further out, but y, the steering angle I would guess is pretty sharp (Dirtman suggested a DL flip above).
