So I am having issues with my Jeep since lifting it. Sorry for the long post - want to give as much detail as possible.

I put on the Old Man Emu lift, JKS adjustable track bars (frt, rear), JKS Adjustable lower control arms (front only) and Crown extended brake lines.

The steering wheel was not quite centered but I was not getting the ESP sensor lighting up. The ride was great but the steering was odd. Not really flighty as I understand you can get if the caster is not set correctly but it felt as though I needed to turn the wheel more to get the same response I had before the lift. I got a professional alignment. Things seemed OK - not perfect but OK.

Then I noticed the driver side brake lines were rubbing on the tires. Zip tied them out of the way. Does not appear to be a problem anymore.

Saturday I noticed the JKS front track bar has been hitting the ARB Diff cover I have. The red coating on the diff cover is worn down to bare metal. The combination of the larger diameter track bar and thicker cover must cause interference when springs are compressed. Talked to a guy from the local off-road shop, who said if it was his, he would "shave the cover a bit". I am not about to try that on my own or if that is even a good solution.

Sunday I took my hardtop off. (I have a MBRP rack so the total weight is probably 150 - 200 lbs. ) The lighter load on the heavy springs definitely affected the ride but I figure when I have all my camping gear loaded up for the trails, I will be back were I was with the top on. The back end is a bit higher which I know would affect the geometry underneath. I drove about 50-60 miles today with no problem, then rolling in traffic going about 20mph, slight left curve in the road, the ESP light kicks on, no studer, no auto braking, etc. Drove the rest of the way home, about 20 miles, no problems, highway speeds, no death wobble, nothing, but the ESP light stayed on AND the really scary thing is the steering wheel is now centered! How does that happen?

I checked under the front, everything appears to be tight and in the right place. What the heck is going on? How do i fix it?
My questions are...
1. Brake lines are not rubbing any more but is a zip tie a good long term fix?
2. How do I create more room between the diff cover and track bar?
3. How do I deal with the different geometry between hardtop and no top affecting the steering, ESP, etc?
4. Anyone within 2 hours of Vallejo, wiling to meet up and give me a hand?

Again - sorry for the long post but this is frustrating and I am not sure where to go.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

1. Brake lines are not rubbing any more but is a zip tie a good long term fix?
When installing new lines, they need to be rotated 180 degrees normally to make them bend away fromt he tires, rather than towards.

2. How do I create more room between the diff cover and track bar?
You are not the first person to complain about the trac-bar hitting the dif cover. Its a problem with JKS's design (other designs have had the same issue). Personally I would contact JKS and complain. It should not be happening.

3. How do I deal with the different geometry between hardtop and no top affecting the steering, ESP, etc?
Your steering wheel is still not properly centered from the sounds of it. The computer actively monitors steering input, along with wheel speed of all four wheels. If the steering wheel is not properly centered, then the computer may think you are turning too sharp for the speed you are going.

4. Anyone within 2 hours of Vallejo, wiling to meet up and give me a hand?
If you were closer I would gladly help, but I know there are people closer to you.

 

If you got extended brake lines you can loosen the top twist the line so it is bending away from the tire and re-tighten. I used zip ties until I adjusted mine just make sure the brake line has room to slide up and down.

My lift and tires have changed the steering of my jeep as well. It was kind of loose and pulling left. My alignment shop fixed it for me they are great and it only cost me $80 They went out of their way to make it right. the esp light is most likely has something to do with the steering wheel.

I don't have any input on your track bar I just remember that thing was beastly.

I am close enough to help. The brake lines are simple but I am here if you need me. I have centered my steering a few times too.

 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I am actually in a email dialog with both JKS an ARB to see what they think. Both manufacturers have been helpful. The guy at JKS actual thinks my axel is pushed forward by the lower arms.

Pjohn - can you pm me the name of the shop you had do your alignment?

 

Pushed forward is a possibility which can be adjusted. however, were your uppers adjustable? If not, then all that really happens with longer lowers is you rotate the axle rather than actually pushing it forward.

If it comes to it, shaving the dif cover is as simple as a flapper disk and re-paint with rustoleum. The ARB cover is VERY stout. It can take a little shaving.

Zip ties for holding the brake line out of the way is fine, just remember to check it a couple of times in the next few months to be sure the ties stay in place. Most installers zip tie the sensor line and the brake line together so both stay out of the way.

 

I think the JKS track bar is just too stout. 1.5" diam. What track bar are you guys running? I may have a slightly used track bar for sale soon.

 

I say shave the cover and cut the wire under the console and install a switch to shut off all that nanny ESP/bas/abs crap off and it won't scare you. couse the lights are always on with the wire disconnected. It's a jeep and humans can drive. Right? You can turn it back on if you like.

 

Update on the problems I have been having.

1. I re-re-recentered the steering wheel and the ESP light is now off. One down
2. The brake lines seem to be ok for know but I will be keeping a close eye on them. Two down
3. I have bumps tops on Order. I am hoping that will prevent the trackbar from hitting the diff cover. Plus I will need them anyway when I get bigger tires. I should have done them when I did the lift. If that doesn't work, on to plan B.

Not looking forward to getting the springs back out. Any place to rent a spring compressor?

 

You don't need a spring compressor if you unbolt the shocks and sway bar and watch your brake lines. But places like o'rileys and auto zone loan out tools with a deposit. The deposit is usually the cost of the tool.

 

A bottle jack placed on top of the axle and used to force the axle lower is easier and safer than a spring compressor.