Request for help with a few problems
JK Forum Regional Rep
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,921
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From: Stockton.Ca
JK Junkie
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 1
From: Twain Harte, CA
JKS has more than one track bar design. One is stock size, one is larger.
I second the "do not use a spring compressor" comment. They can be very dangerous. I have never needed one for a JK lift. Even with 3.5" springs, they were easy to get out if done properly.
I second the "do not use a spring compressor" comment. They can be very dangerous. I have never needed one for a JK lift. Even with 3.5" springs, they were easy to get out if done properly.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,818
Likes: 3
From: Folsom, CA
I wouldn't cut any electronics wiring if you can avoid it. When my steering goes off center and it lights up the BAS lights, it just shows me I need to re-center my steering wheel. Also, if a wire gets pulled out, the dash lights will alert you.
I have an RE track bar if you want to swap for your JKS. It should clear your cover, and is heavy duty as well. Just a thought...
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Fort Mill, SC
Originally Posted by Sharkey
A bottle jack placed on top of the axle and used to force the axle lower is easier and safer than a spring compressor.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,818
Likes: 3
From: Folsom, CA
Or you can just step on the rotor/lug nut studs to push it down as you pull out the spring. 10 seconds of work to drop each side out once you've un-bolted everything. I've done it more than 20 times, even with a short arm kit and stock brake lines. To do this type of work I use jack stands on the fram just behind the front engine bay, and use a floor jack to lower the front axle on to lower (smaller) jack stands. Then I use a floor jack on each side as I replace the components before placing them back on the small jack stand. It may sound intimidating but it's very easy to do.
Most people don't get the re-assembly order and that ends up being the most frustrating. They tend to bolt in the lower bump stop extension before the spring is put in rather than placing the extension in, seating the spring and then using a socket and extension with the bolt to tighten it down.
Most people don't get the re-assembly order and that ends up being the most frustrating. They tend to bolt in the lower bump stop extension before the spring is put in rather than placing the extension in, seating the spring and then using a socket and extension with the bolt to tighten it down.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Turlock, Ca
Or you can just step on the rotor/lug nut studs to push it down as you pull out the spring. 10 seconds of work to drop each side out once you've un-bolted everything. I've done it more than 20 times, even with a short arm kit and stock brake lines. To do this type of work I use jack stands on the fram just behind the front engine bay, and use a floor jack to lower the front axle on to lower (smaller) jack stands. Then I use a floor jack on each side as I replace the components before placing them back on the small jack stand. It may sound intimidating but it's very easy to do.
Most people don't get the re-assembly order and that ends up being the most frustrating. They tend to bolt in the lower bump stop extension before the spring is put in rather than placing the extension in, seating the spring and then using a socket and extension with the bolt to tighten it down.
Most people don't get the re-assembly order and that ends up being the most frustrating. They tend to bolt in the lower bump stop extension before the spring is put in rather than placing the extension in, seating the spring and then using a socket and extension with the bolt to tighten it down.
X2
. That's the way I did it and it worked perfectly.