I think 4.88's would be better than 5.13's. Get some power back but not have too small of teeth.

Just don't like the $500+ install price.

 

Gears are gonna have to be on hold. It appears that a new front DS is needed!

 

Was it hittng the t-case skid? Do you run with the sway bar disconnected?

Bob K.

 

I have never disconnected my sway bar per yours and Outdoors suggestions.

There is only a small piece of the boot missing; about the size of a nickle or a quarter. I probably need to take a look and see if it is hitting the t-case skid on full drop or compression. But since the boot isn't serviceable I just need to get a new front DS.

 

I learned the hard way this past weekend about not disconnecting my sway bar. I have tended to disconnect when I need to flex out over stuff and not disconnect other times to avoid hitting bump stops when crossing irregular but not too deep of cross ruts/dips. Well I ended up breaking my lower bracket for the front right end link. I've now learned we are suppose to always disconnect when wheeling true 4WD trails (not forest roads) as the stress can become extreme on the sway system when going over smaller objects on these trails. Just wanted to let you know this as I was advised by David Johnson on this subject.

Also, Rock Hard makes a good engine (oil and tranny) skid that doesn't interfere with your DS on droop like the MOPAR tranny skid does. I have one and it works great with my system which has 14" of travel.

 

Do u have an auto? If so I am very interested in this skid plate that would alleviate the auto DS boot issue.

 

Are you still mostly stock and hitting on droop?

I do have a auto in my '10 Rubi JKU. I had to replace the MOPAR due to my lift and went with the Rock Hard which I got from Northridge. Here is a link to it: http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...p?prod=RH-6003. I chose this one as it also has really killer tcase and gas tank skids that can be mated with it and I will likely get those once I've completely bashed up my MOPAR skids.

There can be issues with long arm kits and skids as well though. We had to cut off the left ear (the one that protects the cat converter) due to it interfering with my EVO long arm mount (not an armor problem for me as my long arm now protects the cat). My buddy has a Full Traction 4" long arm lift and is using the Pure Jeep engine skid that worked without mod (Pure Jeep is a sister company with Full Traction and Hanson). I know the Rock Hard works fine with stock, but if you are going long arm you might want to call David Johnson over at Northridge to sort out compatibility and any necessary mods.

 

To respectfully have a different opinion from my experiences.
I remember in the (70's, 80's)when people wheeled their jeeps connected almost all of the time, I'm sure that's still the case if you hit the holes under load it will cause damage. But think about this for a second, How would the stock front JK axle have taken the same hit by being disconnected and hitting at the bumpstop instead? (unless you have the $"cushioned"$ bumpstops)
I'd prefer to "reduce" the possibilty a bent axle myself... Once the front axle on the Jk's are reinforced no problem, by all means disconnect...! Until then that front axle needs all the help it can get running 35's or bigger imo.

 

Sir, you have a very good point and I stand corrected. I agree with your reasoning for cases where the axles are not in strength harmony with the tire size and lift travel. Under these conditions I would want to ensure the end link themselves are the weakest point so they bend and don't take out the sway bar or the axle mounting bracket.